I'll soon be starting to rebuild the 8' stepside bed for my F3, I only have the sides, front and tailgate, all the timber supports were missing. Does anyone have templates/measurements/pictures they can share with me? I'm not too worried about exact originality but need to get the height right to meet up with the running boards.

 

Here is a past thread on the topic that may help:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...imensions.html

I looked for the dimensions for the actual supports but couldn't find that thread. I do remember seeing it on here somewhere because I have an F2 and was considered making the supports myself.
Maybe one of the retired guys will be able to find the specifics later today. I gotta go to work now....

Tom

 

Here's two old threads that discuss it. In the "Restoring 1949 F-3" thread CarlH gives the dimensions of his cross members on page 18. In the other I show that there is supposed to be a rubber rope type seal along the bed wall on each side between the supporting lip and wood.

Restoring 1949 Ford F3 - Page 18 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-interior.html

Unfortunately I must have moved some of the pictures in these threads because they don't all show up. So I'll pull some from Photobucket to show the detail of the center cross supports. There are metal end plates (4 each) on each side of the thinner and shorter center cross members that add strength to the center cross members. The only cross member that will present a challenge is the one at the very front under the headboard. It has a channel that supports the lower edge of the headboard. I've pulled several of these beds apart but haven't yet found one in good enough shape to post pictures of as an example.

The easiest way to go about this would be to buy the bed kit from Bruce Horkey, but I understand that shipping across an ocean is a reason not to do that.

This diagram is for the center supports only. Use CarlH's dimensions for the other supports. Stu

 

Brilliant Stu, that's just what I was after. I assume the other (non centre) supports also have the same 1/8" x 3" recess on top of them but obviously without the steel. Steel looks to be about 1/4"? I'd order a set from Bruce Horkey but quarantine laws make it hard to get timber into the country.

 

The four other supports, two forward and two rear, are full thickness side to side with only the very ends routed so that the top of the cross member fits level with the metal lips on the bed side walls. I also have seen where some have been hand trimmed to fit level at the frame rails. The point is to allow the bed boards to sit flush and level with the side wall lips. The metal inserts are only 3/32" or 1/8" thick. Notice that the center cross members ends are double routed to allow the insert to fit level with cross member and sidewall lips. I also recall that the cross member that goes at the headboard has bolts through it holding it to the headboard. Stu

 

Great, I have a clear picture of what I need to build now, thanks agin.

 

A few more questions for you gentlemen. What are the sizes for the bed wood boards? All the pictures I can find are for short beds and I have none of the old timber to measure. I'm a few months away from needing it but I want to make them in a fairly hard to get Aussie timber and I need to start searching now.

Also, the rear cross member was cut out of the bed for transport (don't get me started on that), I still have it and need to weld back in, does anyone have pictures of exactly where it goes and how the bed boards meet up with it.

Sorry for all the questions but you guys are about my only hope of finding this stuff out, these beds never existed in Australia.

 

I dug out a left over board from an old bed. It measures 7.5" wide and right at 1" thick. The edges are routed about 1/8" deep to allow the bed strip to recess into the bed. I can't say for certain that all the boards are exactly the same width, but doubt it really matters as long as they fit and look right.

Now you've got me wondering why somebody would cut out the metal section under the tailgate. I don't know that this picture gives you what you're after, but it's a start. If you need a different angle, or an underside, etc, let me know what you need. Stu

 

That's a good start, thanks Stu. Do the boards just butt up against that back piece or is there a cover strip running along them like the F1 beds? Can you give me a shot of the rear end as a whole, I think the bit under the piece in the picture is missing, I'll need to make a new one.

The bed was hacked into pieces with a 9" grinder so the importer could fit more into his container, the rear piece was cut out and the front of the bed was cut off and it was flatpacked. It's going to make my job a whole lot harder repairing the damage done. Not happy.

 

The boards just butt up and bolt down into that rear support. As I recall there are special flathead bolts with champhered washers. Now, as to the filler panel that goes across between the sides, go back into the 49 F3 thread and see if the picture I posted of the gray 52 shows what you're wanting. The panel is just a flat single layer piece with a curved lip. Stu

 

I did think of that picture but didn't it turn out to be modified? Or was it wrong lights or something else.

 

Yes, just the light location is non-original on it. Stu

 

Good stuff, shouldn't be hard to make at all. Thanks again Stu.

 

One more thing, I didn't take a picture but probably it'll be obvious when you see the holes. As I was messing with the bed that's up on saw horses today I saw that the wood cross member that tucks under the headboard is bolted to it with two carriage bolts. Stu

 

That will stop me wondering what the 2 holes in the headboard are for. I assume the bolts holding the timber down around the edges are just normal carriage bolts?