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I was really overall happy with how the operation went so far. I really really dreaded the passenger side but once I got that boost tube out of there it really wasn't as scary as it looked. The other thing that worried me was some previous owner installing cheap GP's that stuck in the heads but they must have been the origionals still and came out like a charm, at least three of them did, we shall see on the other 5 this weekend.
Is there some trick to getting the copper washer to stay on the end of the stick when it is tipped down? I can see that being somewhat of a pain.
My copper washers had three little tabs on them that hold the washer to the nozzle of the injector.
Same here. Clay has the good washers if you have the time to wait for yellow tape. You can always apply a tiny amount of grease to get it to stick on there. Just rememember to put the "bulgy" side of the washer away from the injector.
Well, I got the driver's side injectors out. None of the tips look really that bad at all. Pretty clean. some deposits here and there but nothing that stands out. The O-rings were completely shot on 2&4.
Just to confirm, what setting on the meter do you use to check GP's? I have been using the 20K setting. If it has O/L they are bad right?
Got the driver's side injectors re-installed. The old o-rings were pretty bad. I am working on pulling the passenger side now. Didn't see any obvious signs of any bad injectors on DS, All the tips were fairly clean, hope the issue shows itself on the ps. If not I will cross my fingers and hope it was just really bad o-rings.
None of the injectors looked like they hadn't been firing. They were all about equal on soot on the tip. There was a fair amount of soot on all of them actually. I cleaned them all up, gently cleaned the tip with a soft brass brush, re-ringed them and put them back in. Is it possible the bad o-rings could cause this miss by themselves? They were pretty bad. Had to fish pieces of the lower ring out of the holes on two of them. I haven't gotten it all reassenbled yet. so I don't know if the miss remains and I am Running out of time today. Got the FRX on without too much problem, however I found I needed to remove the A/C compressor from its mounts to get that front plug in. A 7mm wrench fit the square head just perfectly. Did the IAH delete I have been meaning on doing too.
Ok a little update.
I got everything back together. I haven't gotten it started yet that is for tomorrow. However I managed to borrow a cheap scanner that can do buzz tests. so I went ahead and did it on the injectors cold which I know isn't preferred but I have to return the tool before i get a chance to start it.
First, all the injectors sounded great, all the same and very even.
second, the scanner gave me the following code which I understand to usually be a burnt harness which they looked fine to me. No singing or anything in the plugs.
"injector high side open bank 1"
Is that always a bad harness or is it just because the engine is cold? I don't have a problem replacing the harness if that is what it needs. what do you all think?
According to the Ford Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis manual (6-10), "High side open bank No. 1" means that there is an open circuit in the injector power supply for the right side of the engine (odd numbered cylinders). The manual lists probable causes as open wiring or faulty IDM. The fault code number is P1293.
If the right side injectors had no power you would not have heard all 8 during the buzz test. I think the code is probably an error, possibly stored from an earlier intermittent open circuit (loose 9 pin valve cover plug?). Can you try clearing the code and seeing if it returns?
I would rather buzz the injectors cold to hear the condition of the injectors. If you're getting a code, the first thing to check is for a loose, burnt, corroded wire or connector. Here's a link that will give you what you need to start testing wires with a meter. Remember to wiggle the wires and connectors while you check them to help find intermittent issues.
I would rather buzz the injectors cold to hear the condition of the injectors. If you're getting a code, the first thing to check is for a loose, burnt, corroded wire or connector. Here's a link that will give you what you need to start testing wires with a meter. Remember to wiggle the wires and connectors while you check them to help find intermittent issues.
Thats a great link, thanks. I will try clearing the code tomorrow then re-do the test and see if it comes back. I will have time waiting for the starter to cool back down between cranking sessions refilling the rails with fuel/oil after the o-ring job and can start tracing things then. I have never had a SES light come on in this truck in the time i have owned it, about 10K so if it was a stored code it was most likely from before I bought the truck. The harnesses both looked pretty darn good. They were both tightly connected and didn't show any discoloration inside the connector but I did note the wires were quite stiff but not fragile feeling. If it comes back I will start ohm-ing out the UVCH first then work my way back. I do remember the PO said there was some rubbed wires behind the alternator that gave him some problems once, I think on the 42pin area so I will also check that again. He said they were for the alternator but who knows. He was a mechanic (dare I say at a Dod&e shop) and supposedly fixed them but that angle is worth exploring again.
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