misfire/shaking question
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 580
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From: Chippewa Falls, WI
I wish I could afford to just replace all 8 injectors, but it isn't financially in the cards. I just ordered one of clay's rebuilt injectors, o-rings and the FRX just a minute ago. I hope I can see which injector is the issue when I pull them.
I hope to get a new laptop sometime this summer and hopefully AE shortly there after. It is clear its the easiest way to diagnose these engines.
Thanks for the help!
I hope to get a new laptop sometime this summer and hopefully AE shortly there after. It is clear its the easiest way to diagnose these engines.
Thanks for the help!
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Wow... my name popped up in this thread almost as many times as my injectors did in Stinky.
The ICP lowers slowly as the Engine Oil Temperature warms up. It sounds like your ICP crosses a threshold for one or more of your injectors and there is a quick test for this. If you unplug the ICP sensor (SES light triggers), the IPR will set to about 14% - this would be about 700 PSI on a fully-functional HPO system. Your idle will likely smooth out quite nicely. It really helps to find someone near you with AE to do a Cylinder Contribution Test and the culprit will likely have a high Perdel (percentage of rotational variation from the norm).
The AE injector was to address cackle in #8. The combination of a Hutch mod (preventing air in fuel) and an FRx (removing air from fuel and cycling fuel) eliminates the #8 cackle.
The ICP lowers slowly as the Engine Oil Temperature warms up. It sounds like your ICP crosses a threshold for one or more of your injectors and there is a quick test for this. If you unplug the ICP sensor (SES light triggers), the IPR will set to about 14% - this would be about 700 PSI on a fully-functional HPO system. Your idle will likely smooth out quite nicely. It really helps to find someone near you with AE to do a Cylinder Contribution Test and the culprit will likely have a high Perdel (percentage of rotational variation from the norm).
The AE injector was to address cackle in #8. The combination of a Hutch mod (preventing air in fuel) and an FRx (removing air from fuel and cycling fuel) eliminates the #8 cackle.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 580
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From: Chippewa Falls, WI
Thanks Tugly. I will try unplugging the icp and see what it does on the road. So if I understand you unplugging that sensor causes the HPOP to run a higher pressure across the rpm range hopefully getting the weak injectors to kick in more proving injector(s) are the problem?
Without access to the computer diagnostics right now my plan is to pull all the injectors to replace the o-rings anyway and then replace the injector with the cruddiest tip with the one coming from clay, and cross my fingers. I have extra o-rings coming so I can move it around to the 2nd cruddiest and so on if necessary.
Tugly, since you have had these things in and out plenty of times what has been your procedure for getting the oil/fuel out of the engine? I don't really have anything I can suck it out with so I was just hoping to roll the engine with a breaker bar to shoot it out. I will pull the rear ones first to concentrate most of it there,
Without access to the computer diagnostics right now my plan is to pull all the injectors to replace the o-rings anyway and then replace the injector with the cruddiest tip with the one coming from clay, and cross my fingers. I have extra o-rings coming so I can move it around to the 2nd cruddiest and so on if necessary.
Tugly, since you have had these things in and out plenty of times what has been your procedure for getting the oil/fuel out of the engine? I don't really have anything I can suck it out with so I was just hoping to roll the engine with a breaker bar to shoot it out. I will pull the rear ones first to concentrate most of it there,
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
Without a sucker the normal routine for getting the fluid out of the rear holes is to pull the glow plugs and bump the motor over. You need to disable the fuel pump if using the key so the fuel pump doesn't dump fuel into the rails.
I used a mechanics switch right on the starter itself when doing a buddies truck so we didn't have to turn the key at all. Just pretty much jump 12v+ to the solenoid on the starter itself.
I used a mechanics switch right on the starter itself when doing a buddies truck so we didn't have to turn the key at all. Just pretty much jump 12v+ to the solenoid on the starter itself.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Pulling the ICP connector does not make the truck fully driveable, it's a "get home" procedure, a way to test how the idle will react, a sensor/control test, and a way to start a stubborn truck.
As for draining, I just went through this again yesterday: I use the chunk-o-steel method, after I've sucked the oil out with a Mity-Vac. Everybody with a 7.3L should own one of these... really. I use mine almost every time I pop the hood. I attached a piece of tubing to the end of the Mity-Vac tube that fits either in the GP hole or the injector nozzle hole in the cup. I drain the cylinder(s) out, and install/torque the injector(s), but I leave the glowplug out of the cylinder(s) I worked on. If I just did one cylinder, I cover the GP hole with a rag. If I did a spread of sticks, I loosely put the VC on with a couple of bolts barely threaded in to hold it in place. I short the starter relay studs (passenger-side fender wall) with my tortured (cheap) screwdriver for about 5-10 seconds, and oily mist blows out rather loudly.
If you don't suck the oil out, the differences are:
As for draining, I just went through this again yesterday: I use the chunk-o-steel method, after I've sucked the oil out with a Mity-Vac. Everybody with a 7.3L should own one of these... really. I use mine almost every time I pop the hood. I attached a piece of tubing to the end of the Mity-Vac tube that fits either in the GP hole or the injector nozzle hole in the cup. I drain the cylinder(s) out, and install/torque the injector(s), but I leave the glowplug out of the cylinder(s) I worked on. If I just did one cylinder, I cover the GP hole with a rag. If I did a spread of sticks, I loosely put the VC on with a couple of bolts barely threaded in to hold it in place. I short the starter relay studs (passenger-side fender wall) with my tortured (cheap) screwdriver for about 5-10 seconds, and oily mist blows out rather loudly.
If you don't suck the oil out, the differences are:
- Put VC on and an upper/lower bolt snugged by hand.
- Just "bump" the starter with the screwdriver... don't let it roll (10-second continuous crank) until after 2 or three revolutions. A blast of oil will shoot out of each cylinder rather violently... like a Superduty Super Soaker 7300.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 580
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From: Chippewa Falls, WI
I just remembered I have one of those hand pump vacum brake bleeder kits. I can use that to pull most of the oil and such out of the cylinder. Then hand roll the engine to squirt the rest out. I used to have one of those clip-on remote starter switch things around here somewhere. I will dig it out so I can bump the engine while watching it.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
Nice deal!
I used my shop vac with an array of reduced hoses till I was down to an aquarium air pump size hose that fit down the injector hole to suck out the oil and fuel. Worked great!
You can see the last couple hoses in this pic, full of oil, stuck in the passenger side rear hole.
My whole deal is in the link in my sig.
I used my shop vac with an array of reduced hoses till I was down to an aquarium air pump size hose that fit down the injector hole to suck out the oil and fuel. Worked great!
You can see the last couple hoses in this pic, full of oil, stuck in the passenger side rear hole.
My whole deal is in the link in my sig.
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Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 580
Likes: 0
From: Chippewa Falls, WI
Nice deal!
I used my shop vac with an array of reduced hoses till I was down to an aquarium air pump size hose that fit down the injector hole to suck out the oil and fuel. Worked great!
You can see the last couple hoses in this pic, full of oil, stuck in the passenger side rear hole.
My whole deal is in the link in my sig.
I used my shop vac with an array of reduced hoses till I was down to an aquarium air pump size hose that fit down the injector hole to suck out the oil and fuel. Worked great!
You can see the last couple hoses in this pic, full of oil, stuck in the passenger side rear hole.
My whole deal is in the link in my sig.
I have to get some longer tubing for my bleeder kit. It only has 12" or so with it now. I am really looking forward to getting the FRX installed. Everybody here seems to like theirs. I might even do the oil crossover at some point here too.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
After your exercise under the hood, you'll possibly appreciate the time I spent (and money) at 265K:
Amid all the gyrations I went through at stick time, the new ones DO NOT sound the same as remans. The truck sounds "crisper", for lack of a better way to describe it... and I can hear those solenoids snap like they mean business.
Amid all the gyrations I went through at stick time, the new ones DO NOT sound the same as remans. The truck sounds "crisper", for lack of a better way to describe it... and I can hear those solenoids snap like they mean business.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
Tugly, what ever happened with your old injectors after buying new ones? Did they still call for a core with new injectors?
Kel104, I had my top end apart for new O-rings everywhere including the turbo pedestal and all.
Kel104, I had my top end apart for new O-rings everywhere including the turbo pedestal and all.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound