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Rust repair

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Old Apr 19, 2013 | 07:09 PM
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Rust repair

Im looking to repair ALOT of rust this summer. I mean ALOT! Lol typical rust spots for fords, question is how difficult is the rust repair process? Any tips? Pointer? Tricks? Anything to make this easier on the nerves... And maybe the wallet lol
 
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Old Apr 19, 2013 | 07:15 PM
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New panels! Patch work isnt the best case unless done right as it will bubble right back up and rot. Its a hard thing to chase once it gets in there
 
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Old Apr 19, 2013 | 07:42 PM
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New panels it is! Any tips for doin the work?
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 07:44 AM
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Learn how to weld, work with fiberglass, and resin.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 07:53 AM
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That ill have to get better with! My welding skills arent horrible but less than great lol
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 07:57 AM
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If your bed is rusted out under the taillights, I would not waste my time on it, get another bed. You will never get it strong enough to support the rear of the bed and the tailgate.

If your rear cab corners are rusted out on the inside, then you have serious problems there also. It really can't be fixed correctly, but I have fiberglassed it in. It's never the same, and there is no strong place for your seat belt to attach, and really the only repair is a different cab.

Most other areas are cosmetic, and the patch panels work ok. The rocker panel is an important piece, but they make a nice patch piece for this that restores all of it's strength.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 08:49 AM
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Sounds like a new cab is needed then.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 09:59 AM
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Dont forget, the cab is where the VIN is, so you may have title issues.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by JJray
Sounds like a new cab is needed then.
Don't take my word for it. Look it over carefully and determine what you want to do. If you have a large hole in the floor on either side of the cab corner, then yes you have problems. Will your truck fall apart in the road? No. What I did was put layers of fiberglass in the area, just so when I put stuff behind the seat it would not fall out into the roadway.

But if you study the situation, the piece that is rusted out is part of the support that the rear cab mounts bolt to that support the rear of the cab, and they go out and support the outer cab corners. I believe the No 1 cause of this is the seam sealer leaking above the door on the upper rear corner of the cab. The water runs down the inside of the cab and rusts it out.

After I fiberglassed it in, everything seemed to work fine, but it was one of those "it's not right" things that gets in the back of your mind and never goes away.
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 09:56 PM
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I can relate to that. I just pulled off the plywood that the P.O. had put down on the bed of my flairside. Long story short. the rear cross sill is totally rotted on one end. Cheapest new one i have found thus far is 200 bucks not including shipping. How to explain it to the wife will be priceless.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 401tonyo
I can relate to that. I just pulled off the plywood that the P.O. had put down on the bed of my flairside. Long story short. the rear cross sill is totally rotted on one end. Cheapest new one i have found thus far is 200 bucks not including shipping. How to explain it to the wife will be priceless.
The regular beds have a large u-channel that goes from tail light to tail light. It attaches to a "box" that the tailgate hinges bolt to, and also supports the uprights that supports the rear bedsides.

Mine was rusted out under there, and then a hairline crack developed that ran up the inside corner of the bed. There are no repair parts for this stuff that I know of, and it would be a lot of work to fix it. That's why I found a used bed that did not have this problem.

If you can find a bed that has holes over the wheels, but this area at the tailgate is good, then buy it, it's fixable.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 08:35 PM
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A alternative to brand new, reproduction panels, is (depending on where you live, and how close to a u-pull-it yard) going to a junkyard with a cordless sawzall, and cutting out the pieces you need. I find this easier because you can also get other parts or whatever you need while you're there. Not knocking anyone else, but there is other fixes to rust problems that work just fine. Sure if you're that **** about things, drop a whole new body part on. But IMHO that's not always appropriate. Welding in a patch or a panel is just fine. It will last if done right. My Grandfather and Dad taught me bodywork skills in every way imaginable. Get your welding skills up and bang em out! Good luck
 
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Jake in PA
A alternative to brand new, reproduction panels, is (depending on where you live, and how close to a u-pull-it yard) going to a junkyard with a cordless sawzall, and cutting out the pieces you need. I find this easier because you can also get other parts or whatever you need while you're there. Not knocking anyone else, but there is other fixes to rust problems that work just fine. Sure if you're that **** about things, drop a whole new body part on. But IMHO that's not always appropriate. Welding in a patch or a panel is just fine. It will last if done right. My Grandfather and Dad taught me bodywork skills in every way imaginable. Get your welding skills up and bang em out! Good luck
Been there, done that. The junkyard guy didn't have any acetylene for his torch set (a lot them don't like using one in the yard anyway) but he gave me a short cut off piece of leaf spring that he had sharpened. Said he cut panels out of old cars with it all the time, and sharpened it up a little bit and gave it to me. It took me awhile, but I cut the complete trunk floor out of a 61 impala to install in my 64 ss. It worked pretty well, though it was a lot of banging.

The problem with these trucks, they all have the same problems. It's very difficult to find good body parts on these year trucks if you live in the eastern US.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Been there, done that. The junkyard guy didn't have any acetylene for his torch set (a lot them don't like using one in the yard anyway) but he gave me a short cut off piece of leaf spring that he had sharpened. Said he cut panels out of old cars with it all the time, and sharpened it up a little bit and gave it to me. It took me awhile, but I cut the complete trunk floor out of a 61 impala to install in my 64 ss. It worked pretty well, though it was a lot of banging.

The problem with these trucks, they all have the same problems. It's very difficult to find good body parts on these year trucks if you live in the eastern US.
Yeah same here too. No torches, grinders, or really anything else that makes sparks in the yard allowed. I've gotten smarter though, bringing a drill with a Uni-bit on it and using that hole to get my sawzall cutting from there.

And yeah I know about some of those problems myself. Lately, I've been finding trucks that are in good shape, rust wise, here. Of course that's when I don't need any body parts. Go figure.
 
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Old Apr 22, 2013 | 02:27 AM
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Reading about these rust issues just now got me curious; how much do other brands of trucks suffer from rust? It turns out...just as much, so it must be a function of living where they put salt on the roads, as most everyone complaining about (serious) rust seems to live in those areas where they do that. I wonder how much money it costs vehicle owners yearly in repairs? I'm surprised there isn't more of a movement to put an end to the use of salt. Don't some parts of the U.S. use sand? It doesn't melt the ice, but it does provide some traction on it.
 
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