As if I hadn't already absorbed enough info on Stinky, I have challenged myself to learn more. Well... actually... it was Stinky's idea.

Clutch packs. Stinky's are done. This is waaay beyond my expertise, my comfort zone, and apparently my willingness to fire a Buck$Zooka round at it. I have been informed this can get complicated with so many miles on the rear end, and that I might be better off looking at replacing the rear axle assembly. Uh... OK.

So I'm doing a search online, wondering if the mechanic was just trying to price me out of a repair he didn't want to do. I find junkyard rear axle assemblies, but the new stuff takes better search criteria than I'm using. I suppose I need to suss out sufficient slanguage to search for Stinky's special sprockets.

So.... Stinky has a 3.73 rear end, and I'm keeping it that way (4X4). What in the world am I looking for? Is the mechanic right? I keep reading about Danas and that makes sense to me... or am I looking at something that costs more than the HD4R100 transmission did? Let the clutch pack just growl (like it has for 2 1/2 years)? Should I go out and buy a donor truck? Would somebody please be so kind as to whack me upside the head the next time I try to power up before the truck is 100%?

 

You have a sterling rear end in that one, Tug. Find a good rebuilder for it because it takes a little finesse to do it right.

 

Rich look for sterling 10.75 or 10.35 (i think thats right without looking it up anyway)

This is a job that even to me... is pretty scary. Im not equipped to do it and have never done one. I would find a place that deals mostly with rearend work...

By the time your done... you WILL have replaced damn near everything on that truck.

Like this december at this pace?

 

I've been looking into a rearend rebuild myself. I know our rears are different, but it looks to around $500 for a complete kit with everything from bearings to clutches, & around $1000 in labor.

It's something I'll pay a professional to do. When the time comes out comes the 4.10's and in goes some 3.73's.

My pulling days are over, if someone made a 3.90 I would jump all over it, but so far no luck finding a set for a Dana 80.

Tug, you should be looking around $1000 for your rear out the door. At least that's what a friend of mine payed recently for his srw.

 

I was quoted $1400 for the clutch pack... not a complete rebuild. I'm trying to find someone in Seattle that can rebuild the whole thing without them confiscating my Buck$Zooka and ammo. Spokane would be a good alternate.

 

Rich,
Detroit True Trac appx 550 @jegs, does away with the clutch pack completely and no more worries..when mine goes out, that is the path I am going.. Part # 915A550...559.99

 

2x on the true trac. I run one on a bronco and it is a great improvement

 

Hows the tru-track in the snow and ice? I would think there would be less slip and that would make it worst. Just thinking out loud! Whats wrong with your clutch pack. Dose it just need modifier?

Chet

 

Performance Products | Detroit Truetrac Differentials

 

Blinking stare. Let's pretend for a sec that I am completely ignorant on this... then let's pretend that we're not pretending. It "growls" when I turn.

 

Rich, your Ford rear end has a limited slip differential (LSD). The Detroit Tru Trac is an aftermarket LSD, and completely replaces the worn out Ford parts. They are generally considered to be easy to install, though I don't know if that's the case in the Ford (Sterling) axle. Certainly worth looking into, though.

As mentioned below, before you spend any serious money, you might just replace the diff fluid and put in the correct amount of friction modifier (an oil additive the Ford LSD requires). If it is just chattering, that may be all it needs.

Regarding snow and ice: AN LSD only allows rear wheel speeds to vary by so much. On slick roads, both rear tires are going to spin. That's great for getting started from a stop, but you lose rear end stability, as you don't have a free-wheeling wheel acting as a "rudder". The Ford LSD isn't very aggressive in this regard, but the Tru Trac is more so.

Mark

 

I can use an inexpensive fix right about now. I'll try it. I need to search for a write-up on how to do it.

 

I did it. You can do it.

Mark

 

I would do as Mark suggested and service the diff oil first. If you still to need a replacement and want to go with the Tru Trac, I did mine a few years ago. I bought a kit with new diff carrier bearings and adjustable shim packs for a little over $600 and installed it with not much more than press and a dial indicator.

 

I second what Mark said. That's the easiest way to go. But, if that didn't work I would go find a junkyard axle. 3.73 gear ratios I believe is the most common ratio and finding one with a LSD isn't that hard either. That's one thing I love about Fords, they put a tag on their axles letting you know what's inside. I bet you could find one with low miles for under $500 with no problem.