I'm servicing my AC system this weekend by replacing the compressor, condensor, dryer/receiver, and all O-rings with new components. I plan to use system flush on the evapoator and all lines prior to re-assembly.

After everything is buttoned back up and evacuated, how many ounces of R-134a should the system take. Also, what are the general low-side and high-side gage readings I should see when the system is properly charged?

This is my first extensive AC system service project so not real sure what I should look for on the gages. Any help is appreciated.

Cheers!

JD

 

In the interest of saving you unnecessary time, money, and labor- why are you replacing all of those components?

 

It quit cooling last summer, and a re-charge didn't do anything. The compressor has always been noisy, and wanted to replace it even if only for the noise. Since I'd have the system open anyway, figured I'd replace the receiver, condensor and oriface tube. The parts for these trucks are so cheap, it didn't make sense not to. If the hoses look bad when I get it apart, I'll order replacements for those as well.

Thanks,

JD

 

Some helpful info here:

Automotive AC Information Forum - ACKITS.COM

 

Last year My 92 Nite's R12 A/C was finely starting to fail. The factory FS10 compressor was toast. Noisy bearing and the clutch seal was the cause of my refrigerant leak.
I had the R12 recovered by an older shop that still had some old equipment, I mention this because new shops don't want R12 in their recovery equipment. After that getting done. I bought, "New" Arctic Air compressor , New Suction and liquid lines that come with new O-rings ,New accumulator, 134 orifice tube and service port fittings for 134 and 8oz. ester oil and refrigerant . A/C retro fit included removing Evaporator from firewall to clean fins and flush and I cleaned out the Evaporator case of
( field mice critter condo's , we live farm country). Then flushed the condenser . I drained the new compressor of all its shipping oil then add 1/3 of refrigerant oil charge and turned the pump by hand to circulate the oil then and split the rest of the oil charge between condenser and evaporator. I use ester oil on retrofits. I set up manifold gauges and Vacuum pump. Pulled vacuum running pump for 45-50min. to boil off any moisture and let sit over night. Gauge readings held, so I added refrigerant watching pressure's and vent temp. At 32psi low side and 185 psi high side I used a little over 2 lbs, My vent temp. is 40 degrees. So I'm happy it went well and is done. And even happier that the Evaporator on the firewall is very easy to get to. I know that a lot of new cars and trucks bury them in the dash .
Hope this helps you, '92