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Body rot

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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 09:57 AM
  #1  
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Body rot

Ok so around the rear wheel wells in my 95 reg cab short bed are rotted the whole way through. Question I'd what would be the easiest way exept bondo to fix that.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 11:02 AM
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well dont try to replace the sheetmetal, i did that and six months later they were rusted again. i have learned to just live with the rust and rot, (the rest of the metal is perfect)
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 11:15 AM
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^^^ Thats probably because you used a patch panel, and it was welded right over the old rusted one.

You can use patch panels with success, but you need to cut the old rusty one off first, or the old one will affect the new one.





If the rest of the box is clean, or clean enough to justify putting money into it, have a patch panel welded on the fenders, and make sure, you or a body man cuts out the old one first!



If not, find a whole clean box. A couple wires, and 6 bolts and that box comes right off!
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 12:01 PM
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It kinda depends on how "pretty" you want it to look. The anti-pretty approach I took was to cut back the cancer to good metal, thoroughly power-wash the area, treat with acid, prime with 7769 Rust-Oleum, and then top-coat. Leaving it this way I've left open an "access channel" to power-wash the area in both direction. I've considered adding plastic wheel arches to hide things but as of yet I haven't. It's not a show-truck after all.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 12:40 PM
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First Bondo is not a fix and will fail shortly. Three options.

Replace the bed.

Cut away all rotted metal. Weld in replacement panel. I was looking at using a front fender lip as a donor. New steel must be protected inside and out by paint, or spraying oil, etc.

Cut away all rotted metal. Replace missing section with fiberglass. Spend lots of time getting the lines right. Won't rot there again but may delaminate from the steel someday.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 12:53 PM
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Only real way to fix it is either a new, rust free bed, or hang all new bedsides.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 01:13 PM
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If you do the fiberglass right it will last a very long time.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by DPDISXR4Ti
It kinda depends on how "pretty" you want it to look. The anti-pretty approach I took was to cut back the cancer to good metal, thoroughly power-wash the area, treat with acid, prime with 7769 Rust-Oleum, and then top-coat. Leaving it this way I've left open an "access channel" to power-wash the area in both direction. I've considered adding plastic wheel arches to hide things but as of yet I haven't. It's not a show-truck after all.
Can't do that here, It won't pass inspection if there's a hole anywhere in the body bigger then a nickel.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 06:10 PM
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I'd replace the whole box if I were you. Either get a new one or find a rust free one in good shape at a salvage yard.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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how much work would it be to fiberglass one?
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993_f350_2013
how much work would it be to fiberglass one?
It's not that it's physically difficult, but it's hard to make it look the same as it did stock and get it perfect. It can be done well, but if you've never done it then it may be hard to get right on the first try.

Personally, I'd rather replace panels than fiberglass or patch panels. If it's not a pretty truck, then I guess it doesn't matter. I guess I'm just a bit particular. If I know of a flaw on my truck, that's the first thing I'll look at every time I walk by it.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2013 | 08:06 PM
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Yeah me to. I heard about expanding foam insulation and trimming it when it's still wet. It just needs covered up and I don't really feel like replacing the whole bed it's got a roll bar with KCs and I don't want to wire that up again. Course it would make them brighter.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 04:11 AM
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Expanding foam will make the rot worse than it is. If it's a beater truck and you just want to make it look a little better, then that will work fine. But it won't last.

If it's a truck you're planning on keeping for a long time and the rest of the bed is in good shape, replacing the entire bedsides is the way to go.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 07:52 AM
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if you are going to use expanding foam as a base, you need to use closed cell foam. if you use open cell foam it will act like a sponge and absorb water and always stay wet.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2013 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by IDIDieselJohn
^^^ Thats probably because you used a patch panel, and it was welded right over the old rusted one.

You can use patch panels with success, but you need to cut the old rusty one off first, or the old one will affect the new one.





If the rest of the box is clean, or clean enough to justify putting money into it, have a patch panel welded on the fenders, and make sure, you or a body man cuts out the old one first!



If not, find a whole clean box. A couple wires, and 6 bolts and that box comes right off!
no they were actuall body panels that i had a shop cut the old ones out and weld the new ones in
 
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