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Ok so I just got my "new" 1978 Ford F250 supercab and its got some electrical issues.
First off, the reverse lights do not work. I've searched and read about the neutral safety switch going bad, anyone else have any other leads on what the issue could be? Good bulbs and fuse and the wire looks ok but...they don't work at all.
Second, my dash lights are acting weird. Originally I had my turn signal indicators, my bright indicator, my wiper light, my heater control lights, and my brake/seatbelt lights. Strangely none of my other lights worked. Then I found a loose bulb and when I tightened it, 2/3 of the dash lit up, but the right turn signal indicator and far right cluster lights are now dead (including the once working brake warning light). Why is this? I didn't see anything wrong with cluster when I had it out a few days ago... I don't see any other loose bulbs/connections when I look/feel up in there...
First off, the reverse lights do not work. I've searched and read about the neutral safety switch going bad, anyone else have any other leads on what the issue could be? Good bulbs and fuse and the wire looks ok but...they don't work at all.
It sounds like you've ruled everything out but the switch.
Originally Posted by Dave145
Second, my dash lights are acting weird. Originally I had my turn signal indicators, my bright indicator, my wiper light, my heater control lights, and my brake/seatbelt lights. Strangely none of my other lights worked. Then I found a loose bulb and when I tightened it, 2/3 of the dash lit up, but the right turn signal indicator and far right cluster lights are now dead (including the once working brake warning light). Why is this? I didn't see anything wrong with cluster when I had it out a few days ago... I don't see any other loose bulbs/connections when I look/feel up in there...
Check to make sure the cluster connector is seated properly. It's also possible that the printed circuit contacts are corroded. If all else fails, you'll just have to get out a meter or test light and start looking for where power drops out.
Ok I didn't think there was anything else in the reverse light circuit.
As for the cluster, the circuit board has seen better days and so has the back of the cluster (especially the holes for the bulbs). I don't see anything truly wrong with the cluster. That's why the odd lighting is pattern is stumping me...
As for the cluster, the circuit board has seen better days and so has the back of the cluster (especially the holes for the bulbs). I don't see anything truly wrong with the cluster.
You've listed two major things that are wrong with the cluster, so the cluster is indeed suspect. Corroded and peeled contacts are very common problems; the bulbs also lose contact as the original cluster backing crumbles away.
If that's not the case, you'll need to get out your multimeter. You do have one, right?
I sure do. Hell I never walk away from my toolbox without it! I'd like to just get a different used cluster...any hints at how much I should be looking to spend on one? Better yet, is there a way to bandaid mine to keep it functional? The circuit board on the back of it is intact and functional and carries voltage (the truck had full working dash lights when I got it). I'm lost because after I had my radio replaced (incorrectly at that), the dash lights became fickle...
I'm lost because after I had my radio replaced (incorrectly at that), the dash lights became fickle...
Wait a minute...so there's more to the story then. If your dash lights stopped working after someone was in the wiring (and messed things up at that), that's certainly information you'd want to make clear up front.
A lot of people installing radios mistake the 2-pin radio pigtail as power and ground, which is incorrect. The 2 signals in the pigtail are power, and dash lights - the radio ground is through the chassis. "I installed a radio and now my dash lights don't work" is a pretty common theme on this forum for the exact reason I just described.
Ok I got the dash to work. Turns out that a whole bunch of bulbs were falling out because the plastic dash kept crumbling away. So I just soldered in in some wires on the copper contacts on the dash and on the bulb holders and then they worked fine.
The radio is now working correctly after my dad mixed up the constant power lead and the accessory power lead.
Now I get to remove the taillight switch this afternoon...I hope it's just dirty. I don't really want to buy a new one...
Funny, i pulled my cluster today and it did indeed turn to dust.
Numberdummy, does the econoline cluster drop right in with the same contacts and such? The cluster in my 91 econoline looks the same as the part from my 77.
I suppose the million dollar question is will a cluster with oil/amp gauges substitute for one without?
Funny, i pulled my cluster today and it did indeed turn to dust.
Numberdummy, does the econoline cluster drop right in with the same contacts and such? The cluster in my 91 econoline looks the same as the part from my 77.
I suppose the million dollar question is will a cluster with oil/amp gauges substitute for one without?
E1PZ-10848-A .. Hard Plastic Cluster Back-Use with Oil/Amp Gauges / Obsolete
CARPENTER NOSOBSOLETE PARTS in Concord NC has 400 = 800-476-9653.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- E1PZ-10848-B .. Hard Plastic Cluster Back-Use with Oil/Amp Warning Lamps / Obsolete
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