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I had a tire come apart on the left front and it tore the inner fenderwell out and ripped half of the wires off of the loom that goes from the main engine loom up to the Fuel injection module mounted in the fenderwell.
I managed to splice all the wires back together and the truck runs again but the ABS light and Brake light stays on and there are two wires hanging from the loom that did not go to the Injection module. There are also two wires from the left front ABS sensor that seem to be torn out of a connector that is no longer there.
The two wires from the ABS sensor, one is black and the other is grey and the two in the loom match the color sheme on the ABS wiring schematic for the left front ABS sensor high and low which is tan w/blk stripe and tan w/orange stripe. Connecting these wires in either direction to each other did not solve it either, the lights stay on.
If you have access to a scan tool then you can read the codes and check to see if all your wheel sensors are online. The illuminated brake light is concerning. You may have two problems here. Have you looked at the wiring for the other side? Perhaps those are the other two wires you found in the IDM wire bundle.
The ABS module is under the driver's side battery tray.
I only have an OBDII scanner which shows no current codes. I know the problem is in the left front since that ABS wire was ripped from the loom. My problem is when I re-connect the Blk and Grey wires that are still connected to the ABS sensor to the Tan/Org and Tan/blk wires that come out of the loom the ABS lights remain on. There is no where else to connect them so I don't understand what else may have happened when the wires pulled out.
I only have an OBDII scanner which shows no current codes. I know the problem is in the left front since that ABS wire was ripped from the loom. My problem is when I re-connect the Blk and Grey wires that are still connected to the ABS sensor to the Tan/Org and Tan/blk wires that come out of the loom the ABS lights remain on. There is no where else to connect them so I don't understand what else may have happened when the wires pulled out.
If you plan on keeping your truck for a while then AE is money well spent. With the Ford Enhanced Bundle, you can connect to any Ford vehicle and run full diagnostics...almost everything the dealer can do. On your model, you will have the special diesel tests which is invaluable when trouble shooting stuff. The 7.3 engine is fairly simple by today's standards but was considered to be quite complicated when they were new. There are only a few things that will shut one of these engines down....most are super simple fixes while others are due to component failure. With AE, you can quickly narrow in on the problem as long as you have a reasonable understanding of the control systems. The best way to get that understanding is to purchase the PC/ED manual for your model (around $50 on ebay..). Another good way is to frequent the 7.3 forum down a bit lower on this site.
At any rate....with AE, you would be able to 'see' each wheel sensor and determine if they are awake or not. In addition, you can test the ABS system and pull codes. If your lights are on....there are codes present 99% of the time. Very rare to trip a light without also storing codes (although it has been reported once or twice...)
A faulty ABS sensor will only illuminate the ABS light. The Brake light should be for the parking brake. When the wire to the parking brake assembly is grounded, the light comes on. Maybe the wire was knocked loose and it's touching a ground somewhere?
Ah Ha, I will check the parking brake. I NEVER use it but the tow truck driver may have set it when he parked the truck!
The ABS is still a mystery as the sensor was not damaged only the wires yanked out of the loom behind the inner fender well.
Thanks for the input shake and bake.
Does your speedometer work? If so, then your ABS module is functioning.
My guess is that you need to replace the connector and sensor so the module can sense the correct resistance for that wheel. It's probably out of range and the module is ignoring that reading, even though you have spliced the wires together. If you can find someone with AE then you can verify my suspicion before you spend the money on stuff that you may not need.
Are you in the Phoenix area by any chance? If so, then I'll give you a hand.
Not in Az, in CA but cool of you to offer. I'll have to re-assemble the fender and inner fenderwell then see if the speedo works or not and go from there. Lesson here, don't use old tires even if the tread is like new.
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