Help with rivets - radius arm bracket!
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Elder User
Joined: May 2008
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Help with rivets - radius arm bracket!
OK, this shouldn't be that hard, but on my 77 F-150, I drilled out two rivets on the radius arm bracket, last summer. Believe I used either a 5/16 or 3/8 bit. Had to notch the front of the rivet with a dremel cut off tool and the head of the rivet came right off and I was able to push through the rest.
But on my 74, it's almost as if the rivets have bonded to the frame and bracket! I've tried two bits, and have broken both - Dewalt Titanium bits. The bits cut very well, but thinking maybe I need to go back to Cobalt or Black oxide bits. The titanium bits are light, not very dense. Any hints with this? Are the rivets from 74 made with higher carbon steel than the 77's?
But on my 74, it's almost as if the rivets have bonded to the frame and bracket! I've tried two bits, and have broken both - Dewalt Titanium bits. The bits cut very well, but thinking maybe I need to go back to Cobalt or Black oxide bits. The titanium bits are light, not very dense. Any hints with this? Are the rivets from 74 made with higher carbon steel than the 77's?
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Elder User
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OK, thanks HIO Silver. that's a good approach. I managed to get the first one. Key is to use the Cobalt bits - much stronger and cut the rivets like butter. I like the idea of the X on the head - I did that with my Dremel that way - cut the X in the head. Damn rivets. **** on the rivets. Rivets on the ****... Sounds like Jed Clampett.
Correct bolt is a 7/16 - 18, I believe.
Correct bolt is a 7/16 - 18, I believe.
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From: Spencer Mountain, NC
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Changing out bushings. The alternative method of using a come along didn't seem safe and several said they still didn't get clearance of the radius arm from its bracket.
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From: In Hastings Delton area
Just make sure you use grade 8 bolts with lock washers when you put back together .I have seen lots of guys use low grade bolts and no lock washers then have a rattle clunk problem because bolts loosened up or started wearing through.
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Elder User
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I tried HIO Silver's method. Easy to get rivet head off. I tried using a 5/16 pin punch to punch the body through but it won't budge. I then drilled a 3/16 hole thru center of rivet. I think I'll have to work on the rivet tail now.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
NOW use a BFH to 'em out... a lil Kroil, PB Blaster, or WD-40 may also help.
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Seriously, all these guys drilling or punching by hand?! I did a couple with a torch and a punch a few years ago, never again. took me less than an hour with the air hammer to remove every rivet and punch them out on the front suspension the other day. Cut an X in the head, use the chisel to punch the head off, and then the punch bit to push it through. I had to cut the head off both sides on a couple, but so much easier than doing it by hand.
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From: Tennessee
Seriously, all these guys drilling or punching by hand?! I did a couple with a torch and a punch a few years ago, never again. took me less than an hour with the air hammer to remove every rivet and punch them out on the front suspension the other day. Cut an X in the head, use the chisel to punch the head off, and then the punch bit to push it through. I had to cut the head off both sides on a couple, but so much easier than doing it by hand.
Drilling ? Hammers ? 
Work smarter , not harder !
