I took the Panel out yesterday for a brief cruise since it's been parked for a while since the rebuild (I start it every week or so). I drove for a few miles and as I was coming to a stop, the truck shut off completely. I tried to start it again, but it would barely turn over. There's fuel in both carbs, fuel pump and the filter is clean. So, it's not a fuel issue. I have Pertronix ignitor kit and coil in the 215 OHV 6. The problem seems to be electrical/ignition. I still have the LOM distributor. Vacuum is disconnected. I have proper cables and good grounds. The starter solenoid is also new. I'm thinking that the voltage regulator may be the culprit?? It seems to me that when the system gets overheatead, the current shuts off. I had to wait about 5-7 minutes for the truck to cool off in order for it to start again. Once it started, I was able to drive the rest of the short trip. This similar thing has happened before on a drive after the engine was rebuilt and Pertronix installed.

Before I drop $60 on a new voltage regulator, I'd like to know if there could be other issues relating to this problem. I'm still thinking about getting a new dizzy from Bubba's, but that's more expensive. I'd rather not do that if the voltage reg is the issue.

 

Load check the battery. I forget if you're six or twelve volts. Static voltage cold should be equal to battery voltage plus a half to one over, 6.5 12.5. Engine running and hot voltage should be noticeably higher. The voltage regulator won't "current shuts off." when hot. If the battery is good, you should be able to run and start several days without the generator working at all.........Unless you're running electric fan and or other accessories. Higher compression of a modified engine will tax six volt starting especially if the timing is ahead a bit.
Time to get the meter out and do a bit of investigative troubleshooting . Throwing parts is not the answer.
Perhaps a coil, ignition mismatch?

 

That's not a charging system problem, as Ray says. Sounds more like a coil that overheats. When you put in the pertronix, did you have to remove a ballast resistor? Since the trouble started with the Pertronix install, concentrate there. The ignition switch is a possibility too.

 

+1 on it being a coil problem. If it stalls again, get out and feel the coil. It shouldn't be hot to touch. Of course it'll be warm....it's next to an engine, but not hotter than the surrounding parts. You can also test the coil with a digital multi-meter. I have the specs in a 52 Motors manual at home (not here at work).

 

"I drove for a few miles and as I was coming to a stop, the truck shut off completely. I tried to start it again, but it would barely turn over."

I believe the key to troubleshooting his problem is what the OP meant by this above statement. That tells me the engine is turning over slowly, like kicking back against timing, weak battery, poor connections heat soak to the starter or possibly even a piston or bearing trying to seize. I took the above statement literally but perhaps a better explanation of what actually happened would clarify the non start issue.
Did the engine turn over slowly or did it just barely start?

 

I spoke with Pertronix tech support and was also told to by pass or disconnect the ballast resistor. I don't think we did that when the Pertronix was installed. Where is it located?

The tech support guy also said that I can run the wire from the dizzy directly to the negative post on the battery (even though is pos ground) to see if the issue would be resolved.

The engine would turn over extremely slowly, stop and then turn over again slowly. I'll try to take a video of the issue when I get the truck back.

 

Timing checked?

 

It sounds like the Pertronix rep was saying to hot-wire the distributor, i.e., bypassing the ignition switch and anything else by connecting the hot side directly to the battery.

But based on your clarifications, it sounds like you have problems in the starting system as well. Timing too far advanced will cause slow cranking as each cylinder fires off, but it should be throwing over faster before firing.

You would be better off connecting up the vacuum to the LOM than having no advance at all.

 

I would check the coil. Than check the starter. The starter motor sounds like it may be dragging when the engine is hot. A sure sign it may need replaced or rebuilt or maybe just taken apart and a good cleaning if the bushings and brushes are found to be good.

 

Ran into the same problem yesterday morning, except that it stalled on me more than once, about 3-4 times. I was so fed up, that I decided to take it to a shop nearby that I trust.

Here's a link to the video of the starting problem the truck has after it dies.

347F1872-BFD4-43BB-A3D6-9F4E0C71FDAB-1632-0000007092275906_zpsfc562293.mp4 Video by modelking1 | Photobucket

I also noticed that the truck would die under low RPMs. That tells me that either one or both carbs are not working properly.

The shop called me in the afternoon yesterday and said that the generator is not charging (eventhough I had it rebuilt about two years ago) and that at least one carb is not working properly. He was able to get the truck to idle, but it still has hesitation and runs rought. He recommended that I go back to the original single carb set up, which I'm contemplating on doing. He will, however, try to get the dual carbs working as best as possible to see if I'd be satisfied with their performance.

Another video link of the truck running after the mechanic did some work.

http://s1209.photobucket.com/user/mo...801ab.mp4.html

I'm just really frustrated with this truck now!

 

Low or bad battery for sure. Why not put a 6v/pos ground alternator on it? They make them that look like a generator. Just depends if you want to drive it or look at it. You could always swap in the gen for shows.

BTW Almost all electronic ignitions shut down when they get voltage < 80% of design. One problem may be causing two.

 

Yeah, the battery was low. The shop had to charge it. I also asked him to load test the battery after the rebuilt gen is installed to see if I should buy a new battery.

I wouldn't mind a 6v pos alternator since it'll be better for the truck. At this point, I just want something that will work. I want to drive it. Ross, do you know if this gen can be converted to an alternator?

I did a Google search and found this: 6 volt Positive Ground 10SI Alternators. Do you know if any of them would work or is there a specific 48-52 Ford application available?

 

That is a large unit, physically, but I would expect it to be reliable. It's good that it is limited to 35 amps, won't create any higher currents than the generator.

The alt's that look like gens are $$$$, unfortunately. I doubt there is a kit specifically for the 215, but may be for the 223 and may not be significantly different. If you can get a 1-wire, it would sure simplify things.

 

I dont have anything constuctive to ad, but I did want you to know that I feel for you. First the timing mark error by the engine builder, now this. I hope you get it solved quickly. Your truck is beautiful and should be on the road. Good luck

 

I'm approaching the slippery sloap. I've decided to go ahead and get a 6v pos alternator installed instead of the generator. The cost is about the same to either get the stock generator rebuilt or a GM one-wire alternator converted to 6v pos. I want the truck to be reliable. I'll still get the stock generator rebuilt in the future and just put it on the shelf for "just in case".

I'm still debating whether I should go back to the stock single carb set up.

Thank you to all those that have replied here and by email with pictures/write up of the alternator conversion.