Question on engine temps while towing
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Joe, I will be honest, I think putting a new oil cooler in is a waste of money and time. I think your temps in general and how the oil temp reacts to changes in load are exactly what you would expect from an engine in good operating shape. You have a big lift, big tires (but with a good gear for them) and are towing way over the design limit of the truck. You should expect it to over heat, and what you are seeing is the whole engine system is over-heating, not just the oil temp. in fact you indicate that even at the worst your delta is around 15 degrees, and I would have expected a lot more than that, so I think your radiator cooling system is not working well enough but your oil cooling system is doing the best it can. Either get more cooling in with a bigger rad, slow down, or tow less, is my thought.
Brian
Brian
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Joe, I will be honest, I think putting a new oil cooler in is a waste of money and time. I think your temps in general and how the oil temp reacts to changes in load are exactly what you would expect from an engine in good operating shape. You have a big lift, big tires (but with a good gear for them) and are towing way over the design limit of the truck. You should expect it to over heat, and what you are seeing is the whole engine system is over-heating, not just the oil temp. in fact you indicate that even at the worst your delta is around 15 degrees, and I would have expected a lot more than that, so I think your radiator cooling system is not working well enough but your oil cooling system is doing the best it can. Either get more cooling in with a bigger rad, slow down, or tow less, is my thought.
Brian
Brian
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From: Foothills, CA
I noticed in Joe's sig he has an "All Aluminum Radiator" -- Joe: is that unit oversized? Another thought: I also see you run the Ford Gold coolant. There are some folks that believe that coolant + high temps can clog the oil (and egr, but you don't have one) coolers. Do a coolant flush and go to a CAT EC-1 rated coolant...
Not sure what winter temps you see, but you could also go to an external oil cooler and completely eliminate that heat input to your cooling system (plus ensure that any partial oil cooler clogging, if there is any, is also eliminated). I know BulletProof Diesel makes one, the only downside is that you don't get the oil heat-up like theOEM can provide. You run a 5w 40 full syn and that's taken care of too...
Not sure what winter temps you see, but you could also go to an external oil cooler and completely eliminate that heat input to your cooling system (plus ensure that any partial oil cooler clogging, if there is any, is also eliminated). I know BulletProof Diesel makes one, the only downside is that you don't get the oil heat-up like theOEM can provide. You run a 5w 40 full syn and that's taken care of too...
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I noticed in Joe's sig he has an "All Aluminum Radiator" -- Joe: is that unit oversized? Another thought: I also see you run the Ford Gold coolant. There are some folks that believe that coolant + high temps can clog the oil (and egr, but you don't have one) coolers. Do a coolant flush and go to a CAT EC-1 rated coolant...
Not sure what winter temps you see, but you could also go to an external oil cooler and completely eliminate that heat input to your cooling system (plus ensure that any partial oil cooler clogging, if there is any, is also eliminated). I know BulletProof Diesel makes one, the only downside is that you don't get the oil heat-up like theOEM can provide. You run a 5w 40 full syn and that's taken care of too...
Not sure what winter temps you see, but you could also go to an external oil cooler and completely eliminate that heat input to your cooling system (plus ensure that any partial oil cooler clogging, if there is any, is also eliminated). I know BulletProof Diesel makes one, the only downside is that you don't get the oil heat-up like theOEM can provide. You run a 5w 40 full syn and that's taken care of too...
Yes I have a two row (same size as stock) aluminum radiator. I understand the drawbacks that some have mentioned about the gold coolant. I have a very healthy cooling system that has utilized a dieselsite filter for years now. I change the coolant quite often so I am not convinced on that issue being a problem, not to mention I am not sure it is worth it at this point IMO.
I have considered the BPD system but that is ALOT of money & time to spend trying to fix a problem I really don't have (if that makes sense). I appreciate the suggestions!
I am curious to hear from others that have done the ELC and what are the advantages?
Thanks
Joe
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From: Foothills, CA
I think one of the main reasons they switch is the controversy we're talking about, and another is some folks are going to extended coolant flushing intervals (100K and up). Don't know of any other reasons...
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Ive been doing some reading. It appears that the elc has better heat dissipation properties, does not produce silicates as you mentioned and the obvious extended life. It seems that the initial flush is very CRUCIAL since both coolants cannot mix. Do you know anything about the flushing procedure?
I hear the use of a chemical cleaner when an oil cooler or egr cooler rupture and it aids in removing oil from the coolant but is that also necessary for just coolant chsnges?
Joe
I hear the use of a chemical cleaner when an oil cooler or egr cooler rupture and it aids in removing oil from the coolant but is that also necessary for just coolant chsnges?
Joe
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From: Foothills, CA
Joe: I'm on the fence with using a cleaner, unless you definitely are changing the oil cooler after -- seems like too big a chance to clog a good cooler with debris freed up with the cleaning agent. The updated OEM cooler does have larger passages, so less likely to clog... But, less heat transfer?? You know there's a trade-off -- nothing's free...
And that silica is what I think folks believe is dropping out in the cooler. But the two are miscible as I understand it, so if a wee bit was left in of the gold, no biggee...
And that silica is what I think folks believe is dropping out in the cooler. But the two are miscible as I understand it, so if a wee bit was left in of the gold, no biggee...
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Joe: I'm on the fence with using a cleaner, unless you definitely are changing the oil cooler after -- seems like too big a chance to clog a good cooler with debris freed up with the cleaning agent. The updated OEM cooler does have larger passages, so less likely to clog... But, less heat transfer?? You know there's a trade-off -- nothing's free...
And that silica is what I think folks believe is dropping out in the cooler. But the two are miscible as I understand it, so if a wee bit was left in of the gold, no biggee...
And that silica is what I think folks believe is dropping out in the cooler. But the two are miscible as I understand it, so if a wee bit was left in of the gold, no biggee...
That is kinda what I was thinking also. I read up on the cleaner flush and aside from being another expense, it most likely will clog the oil cooler. I have a pretty good idea that if I remove the t/stat and flush the s**t out of the engine with water and follow up with a final rinse of distilled that MOST if not all of the gold coolant will be gone. IMO it seems that the cleaner is a must to remove the silicates and other stuff from the coolant passages but then again i am not sure if it is truly necessary
Not sure if anyone else that has made the switch can chime in
Thanks
Joe
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Joe Kucinski
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Joined: Dec 2012
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From: Lakes Region NH
I recently switched to cat ec-1 without doing any chemical flush
however my egr cooler was ruptured so badly that I had hydrolock and couldnt run it to do the chemical flushed.
As part of my rebuild I got a coolant filter directly inline before my new oem oil cooler so Im not worried about my new oil cooler plugging up
I was advised to "let the coolant filter do its job" instead of chem flushes
I flushed about 15 times with water to clean out the gold
The filter works great...if my temp spread off than I know my coolant filter is plugging up again
I have cleaned the filter element 5 or 6 times in 2000 miles since it was installed
My coolant system was not well maintained previously
PS
you can weld a small t handle on your passenger side coolant plug and it is not too hard to unscrew it
however my egr cooler was ruptured so badly that I had hydrolock and couldnt run it to do the chemical flushed.
As part of my rebuild I got a coolant filter directly inline before my new oem oil cooler so Im not worried about my new oil cooler plugging up
I was advised to "let the coolant filter do its job" instead of chem flushes
I flushed about 15 times with water to clean out the gold
The filter works great...if my temp spread off than I know my coolant filter is plugging up again
I have cleaned the filter element 5 or 6 times in 2000 miles since it was installed
My coolant system was not well maintained previously
PS
you can weld a small t handle on your passenger side coolant plug and it is not too hard to unscrew it
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Logistics Pro
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I recently switched to cat ec-1 without doing any chemical flush
however my egr cooler was ruptured so badly that I had hydrolock and couldnt run it to do the chemical flushed.
As part of my rebuild I got a coolant filter directly inline before my new oem oil cooler so Im not worried about my new oil cooler plugging up
I was advised to "let the coolant filter do its job" instead of chem flushes
I flushed about 15 times with water to clean out the gold
The filter works great...if my temp spread off than I know my coolant filter is plugging up again
I have cleaned the filter element 5 or 6 times in 2000 miles since it was installed
My coolant system was not well maintained previously
PS
you can weld a small t handle on your passenger side coolant plug and it is not too hard to unscrew it
however my egr cooler was ruptured so badly that I had hydrolock and couldnt run it to do the chemical flushed.
As part of my rebuild I got a coolant filter directly inline before my new oem oil cooler so Im not worried about my new oil cooler plugging up
I was advised to "let the coolant filter do its job" instead of chem flushes
I flushed about 15 times with water to clean out the gold
The filter works great...if my temp spread off than I know my coolant filter is plugging up again
I have cleaned the filter element 5 or 6 times in 2000 miles since it was installed
My coolant system was not well maintained previously
PS
you can weld a small t handle on your passenger side coolant plug and it is not too hard to unscrew it
I have a filter bypass setup. I was wondering, it sounds like you have a full flow coolant filter....where did you get it and where is it mounted?
Thanks
Joe
New User
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 21
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From: Lakes Region NH
I have the IPR high flow coolant filter
I have it hooked up with the IPR oil cooler relocation kit so the coolant entering the oil cooler is filtered immediately before it goes in
This should prevent another oil cooler failure
It is the only kit I know of that offers that option which to me is a huge advantage
You have to get the oil cooler relocation kit for the coolant filter to work in this configuration otherwise it is just the highest flow coolant filter available
(that I know of)
I have it hooked up with the IPR oil cooler relocation kit so the coolant entering the oil cooler is filtered immediately before it goes in
This should prevent another oil cooler failure
It is the only kit I know of that offers that option which to me is a huge advantage
You have to get the oil cooler relocation kit for the coolant filter to work in this configuration otherwise it is just the highest flow coolant filter available
(that I know of)
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