Power window conversion part 2
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: North Western New Jersey
Power window conversion part 2
hope this isn't a redundant thread but here goes. I have been looking to convert my manual windows to power windows.
I realize I can pretty much use any ford power window setup from 1980 - 1996 from a junkyard vehicle but since I seem to have a hard time finding the right parts, a junkyard itself and the parts would be used/worn out with potential for early failure sooner than new parts I came up with a different idea when I was thumbing through the LMC truck catalog.
If I were to buy a **BRAND** new power window regulator and power window motor, can I just swap these two parts with my manual window regulators or would I be missing important parts? I'm not concerned with the electrical powering of the motors (switches, etc... I can make my own wire harness if need be, I'm pretty good with electrical stuff). Am I missing something? Are there more parts I would need?
I'm sure there are a million good reasons for just getting a junkyard door but assuming that's not an option I would like to try going this route unless I can find power doors for dirt cheap.
Thanks for your input!
I realize I can pretty much use any ford power window setup from 1980 - 1996 from a junkyard vehicle but since I seem to have a hard time finding the right parts, a junkyard itself and the parts would be used/worn out with potential for early failure sooner than new parts I came up with a different idea when I was thumbing through the LMC truck catalog.
If I were to buy a **BRAND** new power window regulator and power window motor, can I just swap these two parts with my manual window regulators or would I be missing important parts? I'm not concerned with the electrical powering of the motors (switches, etc... I can make my own wire harness if need be, I'm pretty good with electrical stuff). Am I missing something? Are there more parts I would need?
I'm sure there are a million good reasons for just getting a junkyard door but assuming that's not an option I would like to try going this route unless I can find power doors for dirt cheap.
Thanks for your input!
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 6
From: North Western New Jersey
I realize this isn't much of a popular topic or something many have dabbled in and know about. SO as I was doing some research on YouTube to see if any other crazies like myself maybe posted a video and I found this. It made me laugh and gave me a new idea to investigate so thought I'd share...LOL
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
I did this very thing myself however on an E van--much the same process I'm sure.
The regulators should be direct swaps since they were all mounted in the same door shell---no differences there. Proceed with all due haste and alacrity!
I'm a bit **** how things look, ever that which will never be seen by anyone other than me. I had a donor vehicle and along with several trips to the pick n pull yard used my door panels and wiring harnesses complete to where they terminate and connect to chassis wiring at the kick plates.
From the salvage yards I found similar vans with mating connectors from the door harness to the chassis, cut them free with about a 12" lead or tail. Following my years schematic wired the salvage yard connectors into the chassis and everything worked at first try.
Using the donor van's door panels allowed me to simply add PW and PDL with a factory look and somewhat ease of installation. On purpose I made them powered full time, don't have to turn ignition on to raise/lower windows---this was fused of course.
So it can be done with relative ease and there's never just one way to do it. Hope this is even a bit helpful!
The regulators should be direct swaps since they were all mounted in the same door shell---no differences there. Proceed with all due haste and alacrity!
I'm a bit **** how things look, ever that which will never be seen by anyone other than me. I had a donor vehicle and along with several trips to the pick n pull yard used my door panels and wiring harnesses complete to where they terminate and connect to chassis wiring at the kick plates.
From the salvage yards I found similar vans with mating connectors from the door harness to the chassis, cut them free with about a 12" lead or tail. Following my years schematic wired the salvage yard connectors into the chassis and everything worked at first try.
Using the donor van's door panels allowed me to simply add PW and PDL with a factory look and somewhat ease of installation. On purpose I made them powered full time, don't have to turn ignition on to raise/lower windows---this was fused of course.
So it can be done with relative ease and there's never just one way to do it. Hope this is even a bit helpful!
Thread Starter
|
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 553
Likes: 6
From: North Western New Jersey
I did this very thing myself however on an E van--much the same process I'm sure.
The regulators should be direct swaps since they were all mounted in the same door shell---no differences there. Proceed with all due haste and alacrity!
I'm a bit **** how things look, ever that which will never be seen by anyone other than me. I had a donor vehicle and along with several trips to the pick n pull yard used my door panels and wiring harnesses complete to where they terminate and connect to chassis wiring at the kick plates.
From the salvage yards I found similar vans with mating connectors from the door harness to the chassis, cut them free with about a 12" lead or tail. Following my years schematic wired the salvage yard connectors into the chassis and everything worked at first try.
Using the donor van's door panels allowed me to simply add PW and PDL with a factory look and somewhat ease of installation. On purpose I made them powered full time, don't have to turn ignition on to raise/lower windows---this was fused of course.
So it can be done with relative ease and there's never just one way to do it. Hope this is even a bit helpful!
The regulators should be direct swaps since they were all mounted in the same door shell---no differences there. Proceed with all due haste and alacrity!
I'm a bit **** how things look, ever that which will never be seen by anyone other than me. I had a donor vehicle and along with several trips to the pick n pull yard used my door panels and wiring harnesses complete to where they terminate and connect to chassis wiring at the kick plates.
From the salvage yards I found similar vans with mating connectors from the door harness to the chassis, cut them free with about a 12" lead or tail. Following my years schematic wired the salvage yard connectors into the chassis and everything worked at first try.
Using the donor van's door panels allowed me to simply add PW and PDL with a factory look and somewhat ease of installation. On purpose I made them powered full time, don't have to turn ignition on to raise/lower windows---this was fused of course.
So it can be done with relative ease and there's never just one way to do it. Hope this is even a bit helpful!
Rock auto has a complete motor/regular assembly for like $70. LMC truck sells a regulator and motor separately for like $50 ea so $100 total. Hmmmm, sounds like for $70/door I'll check out rock auto. I figured for an additional $15 I can buy a replacement GM power window switch since they have the chrome bezel already integrated in the switch and BOOM I have my powerwindow parts! I just have to wire them up.
I'm just like you JWA. I'm a bit **** about how things under the surface look albeit no one will ever see them. I went as far as painting a new water pump and brake master cylinder i put on the truck (its my work truck, not a resto or show truck) and get ridiculed by my friends for painting parts that are just going to get dirty anyway. LOL!
I like youre idea of a constant powered window motor. I hate the idea that you need the key "ON" to open the window. I'm sure this was done for safety or theft reasons but if someone is going to steal my truck they can just smash the window and they're in.
Anyway, that for the vote of confidence. I'll begin searching the 'net for the best prices on parts!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Great--glad I could help even a little!
Also check your local NAPA as they have or have had an "affordable" like of replacement regulators for nearly everything. Maybe check on eBay too as that's one huge outlet for a lot of things.
Let us know how this turns out-----nice to meet another "particular" guy!
Also check your local NAPA as they have or have had an "affordable" like of replacement regulators for nearly everything. Maybe check on eBay too as that's one huge outlet for a lot of things.
Let us know how this turns out-----nice to meet another "particular" guy!
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