front hub, think i borked it
#1
front hub, think i borked it
1998 f250ld 5.4 4X4 4wabs
the front rotor was seized on THOROUGHLY bearing split apart (outer bearing and bearing "core" still attached to rotor, outer race inner bearing and sleeve still in steering knuckle), the bearing was fine fine until i tried to remove the rotor, any chance it can be pressed back together and saved?
EDIT: has anyone ever bought from
AM Autoparts - After Market Auto Parts - Headlights, Mirrors, and More
or
1A Auto : Aftermarket Auto Parts, Car Body Parts, Replacement & New Automobile and Truck Parts | Buy Discount Car & Auto Parts Online
parts are cheap but i only need them to last a couple months until work picks up :/ dont wanna waste time and hassle on "no fit" parts
the front rotor was seized on THOROUGHLY bearing split apart (outer bearing and bearing "core" still attached to rotor, outer race inner bearing and sleeve still in steering knuckle), the bearing was fine fine until i tried to remove the rotor, any chance it can be pressed back together and saved?
EDIT: has anyone ever bought from
AM Autoparts - After Market Auto Parts - Headlights, Mirrors, and More
or
1A Auto : Aftermarket Auto Parts, Car Body Parts, Replacement & New Automobile and Truck Parts | Buy Discount Car & Auto Parts Online
parts are cheap but i only need them to last a couple months until work picks up :/ dont wanna waste time and hassle on "no fit" parts
#2
#3
I doubt it may be saveable as well, but it had removed the steering knuckle from the truck(replacing upper c/a and lower b/j +ties anyway), then i heated the outer side of the rotor mounting surface with a torch, right after i flipped the entire assembly over so it was resting on the wheel studs and started beating the rotor through the exposed area not covered by the dust shield rotating 1/4 turn between each hit. It just popped apart while trying this. That was the best idea I came up with since i don't have a press at home. I have had success with this method before, but Ford's tolerances on this era f series was way off, just ask any dually owner. I worked in an auto shop for 5 years doing light mechanical/parts changing(no internal engine) work and saw hundreds of bent rims and such from this problem(combined with "tire techs" that have no clue what anti-seize is) but never saw a bearing come apart like this. I'll try to finish removing the rotor and upload pics tomorrow
#4
Kind of forgot to get back to this one.. Anyway, the hub had separated as previously stated(i could see the speed sensor ring and the inner rear race when i looked into the knuckle, sorry if the terminology is wrong, I'm shade-tree), so I took a clean rag and cleaned out the inner hub as best as possible. Next I cleaned the outer hub parts thoroughly with Brake-Kleen. After that I put all the "needles/rollers" back into the plastic separator ring using some fresh grease to adhere them to it. Then i repacked both sides with fresh grease. Finally, I reassembled the two by placing a large socket(41mm deep if i remember) over the center of the "outer hub" and tapping it until I could grab a few threads of the CV shaft, torqued to 150 ft/lbs(highest that torque wrench went, calls for 221 on my truck), reassembled the rest, lowered of the jack, gave every thing a final torque, drove 250-300 miles, still tight . I am not trying to encourage this at all. Might help some one to limp them home if they break down just on the other side of of nowhere, I did this strictly out of curiosity, not as a permanent solution, the truck was bought at auction with 0 service history, i got it knowing that it would have problems, as should anyone who is paying 1.2k for a truck that books for 4k
[color=red]IF YOU HAVE NEVER CHANGED ANYTHING ROADSIDE FORGET YOU READ THIS!!![/c]
[color=red]IF YOU HAVE NEVER CHANGED ANYTHING ROADSIDE FORGET YOU READ THIS!!![/c]
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Darthange
Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator
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11-10-2009 08:02 PM