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I gotta 03 6.0. No mods. Well a delete kit. 150k miles. It starts runs for a good 2 minuts then slowly peters off then dies. NO CODES. Using a snap on modis, verus, and a genisys. No codes. Its had tank cleaned, new fuel pump, ipr, hpop, icp, pigtail also. Lpop is workin. New turbo. Valve train workin. Did the air test...no internal leaks. Anything u can think of, ive done. EXCEPT INJ.....my question is, can inj be bad and not throw a code?
First stop throwing parts at it. Watch things like FP, ICP, ICP desiered, ipr %, and battery Voltage while its dying and see what they are doing just before it starts to die and as its doing it. Then report back and go from there. Also try using a mechanical gauge to watch lpo at the same time.
+1 on reading the critical parameters when the problems start (including fuel pressure as mentioned above).
Also - are you able to restart it immediately after it dies?
If you have an injector leaking combustion gas back into the fuel system (failed injector or loosely installed injector), it might behave as you described.
Quote from above: ......... detect combustion leaks into the fuel system on 6.0L diesel engines. These combustion leaks indicate that a fuel injector has internally failed and is allowing combustion gasses to pass through it or the that the injector has loosened allowing combustion gasses to leak around it. Both failures cause combustion gasses to enter the fuel supply system and displace fuel resulting in cylinder misfires, power loss and even stalling. If a loose injector condition exists long enough, the copper seal at the tip of the injector that seals it to the cylinder head and the rubber seals that seal off the fuel supply ports will eventually burn and fail. This may also result in fuel leaking directly into the cylinder and hydrolock the engine.
Good one Mark. Didn't even think about the ballon test yet. I have seen 2 different trucks with this sort of problem that ended up being injectors installed wrong at a different shop (happen to be the same shop on both trucks), I found the problem by doing a ballon test on both cases.
New fuel pump. Cleaned tank myself. And the parts were not installed by me. But I have checked, there new..ipr, hpop, air test all that has ben done. Lpo is good. When it does start dieing off the ipr tries to compensate and hpo goes up trying to keep the truck running.
Of course I always follow cheezits advice....who doesnt? And no dannyboy, it is not a hpo leak. I caught it in a power balance test. As I said, the truck runs great for 1 to 2 min. Then shuts off. 1 inj fell out in that split second it dies. Num 5 falls out 1st. We replace it. 8 falls out next....we replace it. It gets a lil better, so we said screw it and bought all 8...it fixed it. No codes and contribution passes. On a modis there is a wave form option in functional test. This is were I found the prob.
No codes. Its a pisser wen theres no codes and data reads correct....thanx 4 all the input guys. And
Of course I always follow cheezits advice....who doesnt? And no dannyboy, it is not a hpo leak. I caught it in a power balance test. As I said, the truck runs great for 1 to 2 min. Then shuts off. 1 inj fell out in that split second it dies. Num 5 falls out 1st. We replace it. 8 falls out next....we replace it. It gets a lil better, so we said screw it and bought all 8...it fixed it. No codes and contribution passes. On a modis there is a wave form option in functional test. This is were I found the prob.
No codes. Its a pisser wen theres no codes and data reads correct....thanx 4 all the input guys. And
It just seemed like both posts were about the same truck and I didn't see where you mentioned checking the items Cheezit suggested.
Last edited by mustang_309; Apr 12, 2013 at 06:21 AM.
Reason: poor grammar
The low pressure gauge on the dash is just connected to a switch that turns on between 5 and 7 psi. If you think you may have a low pressure oil problem you need more than that information, so you use a mechanical gauge. The factory gauges are basically useless, the engine about has to blow up before they will read off center...
The low pressure gauge on the dash is just connected to a switch that turns on between 5 and 7 psi. If you think you may have a low pressure oil problem you need more than that information, so you use a mechanical gauge. The factory gauges are basically useless, the engine about has to blow up before they will read off center...
Brian
Thanks Brian! But is it less less desirable to install a new electrical gauge with it's own sender, still bypassing the stock system?
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