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If I'd have been in this position, I think that I'd have grabbed my checkbook, called a mechanic friend, and just said, "fix it"! That would have wound up being far cheaper than the temper tantrum that I was about to throw.....
Note to self: If Sammie (Christina) ever decides that you need fixing, RUN!!!! She's going to win!!!!
LOL I had my checkbook in hand and the tow truck on the phone more than once, threw more than one (or a dozen) tools, used some language that would make even they guys over the 4x4 forum blush but each time I said I'M DONE I'm calling a FREAKING tow truck in the morning, someone on here talked me and my checkbook down off the cliff. Glad they did. What I spent for an entire new system, headers back - a shop would have charged me just in labor to get those studs out.
someone on here talked me and my checkbook down off the cliff. Glad they did.
Classic line right there. I love it. ^^^ Fellow Hoosier too!
I know diddly about mod motors , so I'm wondering , is it out of the question with these motors to pull the heads and either work the studs that way or take them to a machinist who should be able to make short work of the job?
Like I said , I know very little about these new motors , but good golly , having a truck down for a week or three for stud replacement is unthinkable to someone familiar with only the windsor based motors .
Just curious because I am looking at getting a 2010 F-250 CC 4x4 with a V10 and am trying to find out what is in store for me if I get it.
I know diddly about mod motors , so I'm wondering , is it out of the question with these motors to pull the heads and either work the studs that way or take them to a machinist who should be able to make short work of the job?
Like I said , I know very little about these new motors , but good golly , having a truck down for a week or three for stud replacement is unthinkable to someone familiar with only the windsor based motors .
Just curious because I am looking at getting a 2010 F-250 CC 4x4 with a V10 and am trying to find out what is in store for me if I get it.
I know some have done it by pulling the heads, that wasn't an option for me, one because I would have parked it before I paid someone else to do that and there wasn't a shop I would have trusted. I had another daily driver at the time and I knew diddly about these engines. Did take me some time to get done, but several of those days were spent waiting on equipment and spinning wheels at failed attempts to weld bolts.
Hopefully no one in the east is messing with manifold studs in this cold, if they are I pity them. If they are you made it easier for them to find.
Well I am in North Carolina so the weather isn't too bad. Could be worse, could be in NY right now under 12 inches of snow. Just not looking forward to having the truck be down for a couple of weeks. I usually do all my own work but for this one, the only tool I see that is going to get this done is my checkbook.
Thanks,
I did not remove any of the stuff you did, I struggled and fenagaled my way around the fender cover lol but after soaking the bolts in PB blaster for 3 days all but 2 came right out, I did have one broken stud up front, and I air chiseled off just one nut and used a damaged nut socket remover from Erwin for 5 rotted off nuts, fortunately, the nuts didn't move but the stud did, so I was left with just 1 stud I used vice grips on. The installation was a breeze, my truck sounds like a purring kitten again, and not sanford and son. I have 4.5 hours total time in it.
I must say this forum is filled with alot of great people and valuable information and I really enjoy being here.
Jim
It's a common problem on Fords, I guess. I had the studs break on my wife's Mazda MPV (Ford 3.0 Duratec V6 - DOHC 24v)
Broke off below the surface of the head. I fired up the MIG welder and made a pile of slag. Steel wire doesn't stick to an aluminum head. Grabbed the pile of slag with vice grips.
I ordered all new studs and flange nuts from Fastenal for $3 a piece. A2 Stainless, coated in copious amounts of antiseize.
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