Bad Day
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 4,575
Likes: 5
From: Broken Arrow , OK
Be sure to check the little four fingered plastic clip that holds the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal belcrank.
Also the plastic bushings up in the pedal support that the shaft passes through.
These wear and cause all kinds of trouble with clutch disengagement.
Also the plastic bushings up in the pedal support that the shaft passes through.
These wear and cause all kinds of trouble with clutch disengagement.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 101
Likes: 3
From: San Antonio , Texas
I had a similar problem happen with my previous f250, it had a t18 trans, went to shift to second then first and the shift lever snapped off at the base about an inch from the base, ended up using a wrench around the nub to shift it into gear to make it home. once I was home removed the boot and found it had looked like the shift lever had just made a clean fracture across the end, I guess from years of shifting and metal fatigue, ground it down on both sides and welded it up, never had a problem with it afterwards
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 391
Likes: 1
From: Fouke, Arkansas
Thank you gentlemen for your input and for sharing your knowledge with me. How can I determine if my fly wheel needs shimming? If I have to pull the tranny to fix my problem, since it's a fairly good size job, I want to do everything "needed" so I don't have to pull it again anytime soon. I realize things can happen but I'd like to do all I can to help avoid problems.
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 391
Likes: 1
From: Fouke, Arkansas
Ok gentlemen I finally got a chance to investigate my transmission and it's problems and here is what I found. There was an inspection plate on the passenger side and I removed it and got the broken end of my shifter out. When I removed the inspection plate there was a "tag" under the bolts and the information on the tag was as follows: F3TA7003VA FE36 8 21 84 435. Any thoughts on these numbers? I held the broken piece back in place and measured it's length and it measured approximately 3 inches with an over all length of approximately 29 inches. To the best of my knowledge it is a 435 since it has an aluminium lid with a cast iron case. I also noticed when the clutch pedal was depressed there was a slight flexing of the fire wall at the bottom of the clutch "master cylinder", very slight. How much, if any flexing, is acceptable? I am going to have a look at all the plastic bushings and check them for wear and possibly replace them. Your input and ideas are greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for your help.
Last edited by Hogtrapper; Apr 13, 2013 at 09:46 PM. Reason: add text
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Your NP 435 was built on August 21st 1984.
Novak offers the #11307 stick for your for your 5 5/8" top cover for $76.36.
Personally, if I intended on keeping the truck I would reinforce the firewall before it started to buckle and tear.
I've seen too many that are trashed.
Novak offers the #11307 stick for your for your 5 5/8" top cover for $76.36.
Personally, if I intended on keeping the truck I would reinforce the firewall before it started to buckle and tear.
I've seen too many that are trashed.
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 391
Likes: 1
From: Fouke, Arkansas
Thank you ArdWrknTrk I appreciate it. I ordered the stick you recommended and it is on the way. I am wondering about reinforcing the fire wall. Should I put the reinforcement plate under the hood or under the dash? If, for example I use a piece of say 1/4 inch plate for the reinforcement and I put it under the hood will it move the clutch master cylinder "out" such that I will need to some how compensate for the plate thickness? Maybe I am not understanding the reinforcement plate correctly. Does it fit around the master cylinder while it is mounted or do I need to remove the master cylinder, reinforce the fire wall, then remount the master cylinder to the reinforcement plate? Thank you for your input and help.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
It needs to go inside the cab.
There are lots of pictures on this site.
The Ford part, and the Terrapin Manufacturing part that replaced it were stampings.
No more than 1/8" thick, I would say.
Here is a like to the TSB that Galendor shared.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...6&d=1302968152
Here is a link to his post;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...3&postcount=24
What the rusty plate looked like when I was installing it in my truck.
There are lots of pictures on this site.
The Ford part, and the Terrapin Manufacturing part that replaced it were stampings.
No more than 1/8" thick, I would say.
Here is a like to the TSB that Galendor shared.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...6&d=1302968152
Here is a link to his post;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...3&postcount=24
What the rusty plate looked like when I was installing it in my truck.
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Senior User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Milwaukee, WI
I agree with ArdWorkin also. I installed a reinforcing plate using 11g steel that I had in the shop. I made a card board template first, installed the plate inside the cab, and no further issues with flexing firewalls. I would also point out that if you should check to see if you have the adjustable clutch master cylinder push rod that you can see in the previous post. Correct adjustment of that rod will avoid the need to shim the slave cylinder in most cases. My 1986 has a non adjustable pushrod and I swapped over to the adjustable for that reason.
Good Luck!
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Good Luck!
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 391
Likes: 1
From: Fouke, Arkansas
Thank you gentlemen I appreciate the information. The local ford dealer is getting me a reinforcement plate for $30.00. My shifter in hung up at the UPS center in Salt Lake City because of adverse weather conditions LOL, what luck. I don't have an adjustable push rod, can I get one at the local parts dealer or the ford dealer? I really appreciate the information gentlemen, thank you.
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 391
Likes: 1
From: Fouke, Arkansas
To be honest with you I am flying blind here. My thinking is once I install the reinforcement plate to stop the flex, install the new shifter, IF it still seems like the clutch isn't full disengaging the transmission I will purchase an adjustable push rod. If my thinking is wrong I welcome your input please. I welcome any and all thoughts because I am totally unfamiliar with clutch/transmission problems like this. I will pull a wrench on an engine in a heart beat but diagnosing clutch/transmission problems is as strange to me as speaking Latin. Thank you for your input, thoughts, and ideas gentlemen.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Well, I certainly don't have ALL the answers either.
But I have been down this road more than a few times.
You will know how much play you have when you go to clip the M/C pushrod onto the belcrank stud.
Sometimes it seems there's nothing you can do to get the clutch bled and functioning.
Sometimes all it really takes is driving it around.
But I have been down this road more than a few times.
You will know how much play you have when you go to clip the M/C pushrod onto the belcrank stud.
Sometimes it seems there's nothing you can do to get the clutch bled and functioning.
Sometimes all it really takes is driving it around.
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 391
Likes: 1
From: Fouke, Arkansas
Thank you ArdWrknTrk I really appreciate all your input and sharing your knowledge with me. I understand what you mean about knowing how much play I will have when I install the M/C push rod. I'm still waiting on the parts to come in. Once I have the parts and start working on my truck I imagine it's going to take a little time since it will be a "learning as I go" process. Again I thank each of you for your input.
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