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I have a 1985 F250 4X4 with a 4 speed transmission. Early this morning I stopped at a red light and when I tried to put it in 2nd gear there was a snap and the gear shifter would flop around and I couldn't put the truck in gear. I removed the shifter and the end broke off inside the transmission and the broken end fell down inside the transmission. I had it hauled home so I didn't ruin the transmission by towing it. Is there anywhere I can buy a new shifter other than a junk yard? Is there any other way to retrive the broken end that fell in the transmission other than pulling the transmission and taking the top off? If I have to pull the trannie to retrive the end I am going to put a new clutch, pressure plate, etc. in it. I looked up a clutch kit and the kit included shims. I have never shimmed anything when it comes to a clutch, pressure plate, etc., I have pulled and installed trannies but never shimmed anything about them. Can anyone help me with this please? What do I shim and how do I know when I have it shimmed correctly? Thank you in advance for any help and/or advice.
I think the shims are for the slave cylinder as thats the only thing I've heard of shimming in a clutch. Hope I don't get in trouble for posting this, but this is a fairly good explanation of a slave cylinder shim: Does YOUR Clutch Setup need a Shim? - LS1TECH
Is there anywhere I can buy a new shifter other than a junk yard? Is there any other way to retrive the broken end that fell in the transmission other than pulling the transmission and taking the top off
Because the truck is an F250 I'm guessing you have an NP435 or a T18/19, in which case you can remove the PTO cover from the side of the transmission & get the shifter tip.
Novak Conversions have replacement shifters, but there are varying finger lengths so you would need to match to yours.
Any idea why it snapped off? Was transmission working well before that? Takes quite a bit of force to break one of those... just curious. X2 on pulling the PTO cover, it will allow you to inspect the condition of the internals while you are at it.
Hey if you pull the carpet up
There will be a big flat plate that you can unbolt.
when you get that off. You can take the top of the transmission off.
Mine was doing the same thing. NP 435.
Putting a c6 in.
Good luck
Thank you gentlemen for this information I really appreciate it, it's very helpful. Is there some sort of identification plate or tag on the transmission like on a rearend, or how do I identify it? When I measure the shifter do I measure the entire length from end to end including the part that broke off and went down in the transmission? I think the reason it broke is because it was often hard to get into 2nd gear. I know for sure I am the third owner of this truck and it has been like that ever since I owned it. I had to push the clutch all the way to the floor to disengage the transmission and it would start re-engaging as soon as I thought about letting it up. About 75% of the time, with the clutch all the way on the floor, you had to get rough with it to get it in 1st or 2nd gear. It always seemed to me like I needed to "adjust" the clutch like the old manual (none hydralic) clutches. In my inexperienced humble opinion, and from what I've read in the links in this thread, and from my past experience with this clutch, it seems to me like the slave cylinder needs shimming. Your opinion, thoughts, and input on this clutch behavior is greatly appreciated. Thank you again for the information and I look forward to any future input/help on this problem.
The T18 has one power take-off cover (on the pass side) and the T19 has two - one on each side.
Do some investigation on cracked or flexing firewalls, that could be causing your problem (clutch needing to be at the floor). I think there's stuff in the Sticky on it....
Is there some sort of identification plate or tag on the transmission like on a rearend, or how do I identify it? When I measure the shifter do I measure the entire length from end to end including the part that broke off and went down in the transmission?
Have a look at the links in my post above. Near the bottom of those two pages are the shifter details, finger lengths etc.
If it is a Borg Warner, the shifter retainer will unscrew.
When you get the retainer off, you will see (on the drivers side of the shifter tower) a 1/4" hole with a small pin in it that stops the shifter from turning.........take care not to lose that pin into the transmission as the shifter lifts out.
I had a T-19 and broke the little finger off mine before.
I had it welded back together.
Eventually I replaced it.
Here is a picture with the Ford number from when I swapped over my transmission a couple of years ago.
Man you guys are great, I really appreciate the information and the input, thank you very much. I looked at the links and things are a lot clearer now, thank you. I haven't had time to get under it and actually look at it, job has me working 12 hours a day right now, but I will have time Tuesday. Atleast I know what I'm looking for now thanks to you guys. I will certainly check the fire wall for cracks or flexing, though I haven't noticed any but I haven't really looked for this problem, but I will. I am looking forward to working on and fixing my truck now that I am armed with this great information you have shared with me, again I want to thank you all.
Be sure to check the little four fingered plastic clip that holds the clutch master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal belcrank.
Also the plastic bushings up in the pedal support that the shaft passes through.
These wear and cause all kinds of trouble with clutch disengagement.
Are you sure the shims arent for the flywheel? Anytime you have a flywheel turned it needs to be measured before and after. However much is taken off for the surfacing needs to be replaced with a shim behind it to be sure the flywheel goes back out to the same point.
Thank you ArdWrknTrk I will certainly check the plastic clip and the bushings. I didn't know anything about shimming the flywheel bruno, thanks. I read the information in one of the links above and it told how to measure to possibly shim the slave cylinder.