Just wondering what you're using and how effective your particular setup has worked in keeping the oil out of the CAC system. I am planning to add this mod but see there are many different ways to go about it. So far I'm going with a closed loop system and my question centers on your method of filtering - Scothbright, Choreboy, steel wool, etc., etc. and the enclosure you use with it. I've seen some running the Parker/Racor setups but I'd like to avoid spending that much if the other "home grown" setups are as effective. Thanks in advance for your input.

 

Biggest thing with the home grown ones is you need to make sure of their flow rates... everywhere ive read says you need atleast 20cfm of flow through them. i had looked into those too but wasnt wanting to take the risk of trying something i was unsure on.. ntm those home made ones are designed for NA vehicles that are not pulling heavy vacuums through the CCV tube like our diesels do when the turbos get going.

If you want to just buy a kit and not have to worry as to finding parts to make them work. BD Diesel has a kit.. but be prepared to wait a month or more on back order for it. I sat on it for a month before i canceled the order.. i figured if i had to wait a month just for the unit how long would i have to wait for the parts that need routinely serviced.

I just recently ordered the Racor Filter for mine. Havent gotten it put in yet. but everyone ive talked to says its the best out there for retrofitting in. Biggest drawbacks to it are, (one you mentioned) price, the fact youll be piecing the plumbing together, and youll need to reduce both the inlet/outlet sides to work. Upsides 5micron screen filter, large reservoir. Biggest thing you want to watch is to make sure all your plumbing is 1" to present restrictions.. also try not to have any low spots in your runners or else you may end up causing build up to form blocking the lines.

I dont know what your plans are as far as performance mods go (as in how much power your wishing to make it output).. but i can tell you the Racor one i bought is designed and tested to work engines pushing up to 800hp. Keep in mind too, the Parker/Racor filter assemblies are initially designed to work on Marine applications which have higher EPA restrictions than your normal Automotive restrictions are. So they are pretty effective at what there supposed to do. and their parts are easy to find at most boat part stores.

 

I just ran a rubber hose to a fitting I welded to my exhaust so it can pull a vacuum from the crank case. I think it works good

 

Nice, drag racer style.

Josh

 

Been trying to get my hands on a 4.5 lcf setup, none of the commercial diesels seem to utilize CCV systems, when I was looking at the dump hose on the 4.5 it looked like it would be plug and play on the 6.0.

 

Here is a VT275..:



Josh

 

Yup I've done it for years lol

 

I've wanted to do this but live in Kalifornia and would either have to: A) Undo whatever I did and return to stock every two years (smog check), or B) Do something stealth for same reason.

Any help on a set-up like an easy to undo or nice and stealthy would be very appreciated!

 

There is a maximum crankcase pressure spec. IMO it is worth KNOWING that this is OK - especially with a hose to the exhaust.

 

Josh can you tell us how that version works? Does in keep the oil from going in the intake or only allow it under certain operating conditions? (I see the electrical wires going to valves?)

 

Crankcase ventilation using the exhaust has been used for decades in racing. You use one-way check valves mounted near the header collector. The exhaust pulses pull a vacuum and evac the gases from the engine.

By far one of the best ways to clear out an engine, although not the most Eco-friendly solution.

But still better than venting to atmosphere or trying to use some sort of breather and rely on the engine to naturally evac it's own gases.

Even old road draft tubes relied on the vacuum created while driving to evac the gases.

Josh

 

Going to the exhaust shouldn't cause any pressure in the crank case cause the exhast is blowing past the tube not in... I welded mine at a 45º angle thus any air moving along the pipe will create a vacuum and pull air and vapor out. On a dyno a super charged 03 mustang made 5.5 more horse with the ccv tied to the exhaust opposed to the intake. I know the mustang and our diesels are totally different but I feel the same rules should apply. But I've never tested it on the truck and I hope I'm not doing harm.

 

ironically the mustangs and diesels both have the same problem of oil getting into the intake through the ccv/pcv vent tubes that lead back into the intakes.. its more prominent on the cobras than the other sub models...

 

I honestly have no clue, but I can take some more pics tomorrow. I'll try to catch our other VT275 trucks before they leave to see if they have similar set-ups.

Josh

 

This is not a new subject in fact it has been discussed to death. I am fully aware of this being used in the past. I am also familiar with fluid mechanics and pressure drop calculations. Additionally, there are numerous old threads on this - even ones where people actually measure the crankcase pressure (lots of smart people have already been down this road - even with w/ the 6.0L). When installing the vent into the exhaust pipe, there is a recommended fitting that is to be installed (actually it shoulld be inserted into the flow path) so that the proper angle will be achieved and the venturi effect will be achieved (which is required for pulling a vacuum instead of simply back pressuring the flow).

If the connection were installed at say a 90 degree angle, too far from the exhaust exit, you very well COULD build pressure in excess of the 0.3 psi recmmended.

I suggest you do some searches on it.

There are also lots of threads where people overpressured their crankcase from a poor installation. The worst culprit is installations that introduce dead legs .... oil and/or condensation builds up in the dead leg (the "liquid seal" causes back pressure). If the collected condensation ever freezes it is really bad.