I have started working on the frame recently by grinding and sanding the rust away. Just curious what steps should be used before applying a rust preventor.

Been interested in using POR-15 so I purchased the Metal Ready and Marine clean. Will these product eliminate rust or should i be clear of ALL the rust prior to applying the marine clean?

Scott1218

1984 F150 302 Shortbed

 

POR15 adheres best to a little rust. It does not like a smooth shiny surface. Knock all the loose rust off with a wire wheel, clean it with Marine Clean, etch it with Metal Ready, and paint it. Make absolutely sure to get all grease or oil off, and then don't touch it with your hands.

 

Gary is 100% right. I did the floors of my Mercedes 450 SL last week. I put 2 coats on..a day apart..and the stuff is as hard as granite. Get a good GLASS or METAL can to put the remainder in when you finish. If you put the lid on..without plastic wrap..you will never get the can open again..Also..Get some GOOD rubber gloves. Nothing will take it off your hands..except a belt sander !!...

 

PS..Scott..I talked to a restorer friend about the Marine Clean and Etch before I bought anything. He says he never has used it. Just a way POR wants to sell you more stuff..I wire brushed my floors.....mostly to get the old glue off..and where I put in a small patch of new metal.....I treated it with OSPHO..then the 2 coats.. I even put some over some new seam sealer..and it's just like the metal. I talked to the POR guys about doing that..They even go so far as to say that if a drop of sweat falls into the can...it must be discarded..BullXXXX....Knock the bad rust off..and have at it...

 

If I recall, POR (paint over rust) uses moisture in the air to cure. I saw one tip a while back about turning the wire speed in your welder way down ( I guess you could loosen the feed roller, too) and then pulling the trigger to allow the moisture free Argon/CO2 to fill the free space in the can before sealing it up. As ozark1 was saying, if there is any on the lip/lid contact surface, it WILL seal the can shut and you won't be opening it again.

 

Yes, it is cured via the moisture in the air. And yes, if you don't put plastic wrap or some such between the lid and the can you won't get it open. BTDT And yes, get a glass or metal container, and absolutely not a styrofoam cup and preferably not a plastic cup - it desolves styrofoam and softens a plastic cup.

And, yes OSPHO works. Metal Ready and OSPHO both are phosphate treatments that not only etch the surface to give the POR something to grip, they also leave a "soft" surface treatment that the POR can grab. And, unless the surface is really greasy or oily they will clean as they etch. But I wouldn't rely on that for all my cleaning.

 

Thanks everyone... Pretty eager to get started .