Ok, I just double checked my distributor cap wiring against one of the schematics you gave me, and I'm pretty sure it checks out.

There is (for purposes of identification) a "lower" more permanent set screw on the base of the points assembly, and a fine braid ground wire to the distributor body, from it (which looks in good un-corroded shape). Then there is an "upper" set screw, with the adjuster notch next to it, and no wires coming from it. Finally, in the middle of the points assembly, there is a screw receiving (1) a wire from the condenser, and (2) the wire through the body of the distributor, to the coil.

And you are so right, from right here stickville southern illinois, all's I gotta do is zoom over the ohio on the I-24 bridge, and there's Uncle Wally's , Advances, Autozones. So its that light meter, or the V-O Multi-meter that I really need? We can do this.

Cheers, DeeDee

 

Go to the auto parts places


You need :
a 12 Volt testlight. ($2.00-$5.00)
a Multi-meter (V.O.Meter) $10.00-$20.00
Possibly a spark plug wire tester as shown in the link in an earlier reply.

I have illustrations of the distributor if you are interested.

 

This is what I was adressing when I mentioned the possibility of bad grounds.

Just put a wire from the neg of battery to the fender and try it.

Good luck.

 

Still looking for that block to cab strap, I know I've seen that somewhere. Should it be bolted to the driver's side firewall?

This braided ground strap is usually located on the passenger side attached to the back of the head to the firewall.

Me , I have 2 ground straps from the engine to the firewall.

Okay, Dolores,
I was having problem finding the *for sure* engine specs for that year of 302,assuming it is still the original.

Here is what you need to do:

Points gap =17*

{which should make the dwell}

Dwell = 24-30*

Spark Plug = BRF-42

Spark Plug gap = 73-74 a change took place in plug gap.
The 73 plug got a .035" gap & the 74 got a .044" gap
You may have to try both.
You can attach a plug wire to a plug making sure the plug is well grounded and turn the engine over with the starter to observe the spark it generates.

Igintion Timing = 6*Btc 600 Rpm {vacuum hose to advance removed and plugged.}

 

Tellico, Mil1ion,

Hey! I really apppreciate you guys hanging in there with me on this. I found the ground strap and it looks fine...the fact is that with these mid 70's Fords, although the wheel wells and cab corners are rusted all to hell and high water (oh, the heartbreak of "custom cab" chrome), the frame and engine compartment, inner fenders, etc. are all in pretty good shape.

Tell you what happens: I loose the distributor footing, and turn it while my brother turns the key; and for the first time its starting to catch, almost. but I can't get it right, even turning the distributor all the way as far as it will go. We check #1 plug for TDC (he shows me how to turn the engine over by touching one of the solenoid contacts w/ a screwdriver). He finally says, "DeeDee, your timing chain gear is shot, you're a good two teeth off, I thought you had told me you had checked the timing!!!!!!!"

So he's going to bring me out a new chain and gears, and I am left staring at all the stuff I have got to take off in the meanwhile, and how it looks like the timing chain cover is bolted onto the oil pan, for some reason. Brother Danny says he will have to bring me a speacial tool to pull the harmonic balancer off.

One thing you got to admit, for a first time poster Ford truck enthusiast, I didn't do badly naming the thread!

I'll let you all know.

Cheers, --------Aquagirl

 

Before the chain and gears are pulled off,observe the slack in them.
Usually they won't throw a gear cog unless the chain is stretched or there is nothing left of the teeth.

Edit:
Now I feel like an idiot.
I should have picked up on this before.

1/16th of a 360* is 22.5*

22.5 degrees ?

That's more than enough to throw the timing off

 

Even if the timing chain is bad, the spark should be strong.....it just doesnt happen at the right time.

 

Hey im Glad U got it nailed ...Never give up......


Timing chain and gear....


Isnt that what "YOU" thought it was... LOL




Now im laughing.


If he gives U a new coil(the autozone dude) get one that gives off 50,000 Volts LOL
maYbe u will get purple spark he he


Besides U have all these new parts on your truck once u get up and running.........

If something goes wrong with my truck Im askin U ...He he




Cheers to ya & Good luck

 

LOL, no kidding, I have some problems with my 77 302, do you think you can tell me what is wrong with it? Just kidding!

I am glad you got it figured out.... Just make sure when you reinstall the harmonic balancer you dont install it wrong, I know somone who has to use a piece of masking tape and a marker to get the correct timing when using a timing light....

But you have to admit, I said TIMING first!!!!

Well... I dont see you replacing any more parts for a long time to come..... I think you have checked and replaced everything you can replace...

 

What is the name that I named this thread, Racerdave?

OK, I search our search engine, and didn't find any information on changing the timing set. (Or, I still don't know how to use the search engine properly).

So, I have got all the pulleys and the water pump off, and, believe you me, I don't want to put the harmonic balancer back on wrong.......... I don't even want to take it off wrong!

My brother gave me this harmonic balancer puller. Now, should I take that crank bolt all of the way out and thread the big center bolt on the puller in, and then pull by driving the four smaller surrounding bolts? Or, should I just loosen the crank bolt and push on its head with the central puller bolt?

Any tips would be greatly appreciated at this point.------thanks, Aquagirl

 

I wouldnt recommend doing this job without some one there ,with you, who knows how to do it and who has done it before....correctly.....

 

Hey Dolores, This is the best item I could find for you.

I know you are capable.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/.../aa042702a.htm

We could take this to the 302 engine forum or even the
re-building forum if you like.

Just post where you want to go !

I trust all the belts and alt,pwr strg pump have all be removed
Remove the fuel pump too.

Do you have baggies to place bolts and small parts in with a pen to mark.
Have a paper to write down order of part removal.


1)Remove the crankshaft bolt and washer

2)Replace just the bolt
The bolt is what the pulley puller pushes again to remove the pulley.
3) Attach the legs of the puller to the harmonic balancer with bolt provided.
4)Make sure they are all even lengths, you wnat to pull it off as straight as possble.

 

OK, what finally worked for me is, that I took the crank bolt all the way out, and then drove in its place the center bolt of the puller, all the way in as far as it would go, and then I eased the balancer off by patiently driving the surrounding set bolts in little bits, one after the other, making sure to keep the puller straight.

That was yesterday, and then my brother shows up to check up on me and gives me this little razor scraper, and says "this is what you need, DeeDee". And I'm going "Yeah right, thanks, bro."

Now I understand. I just now got the timing chain cover off, and I'm totally casually cleaning it up and the water pump, and scraping off the old gaskets. The fuel pump seal didn't want to break, so I've just left it all together, and it doesn't seem like it will cause any problems.

Thanks Mil1ion, for the link. I'm onto it, and studying up on how the old timing set wants to come off.

There is just the slightest bit of slack apparent in the chain.....now I'm just hoping that that was indeed the problem.

 

Before you take the old gears off, check to see if the timing marks are lined up. You'll need to know what to look for putting the new ones on anyway and it's easier to line the new ones up if the old ones were close to start with. Double check the step on the back of the top gear. Match the new gear to the old one. There are a couple of different depths where the top gear recesses into the cam retainer and sometimes the parts store will give you the wrong one. I don't know why, just that sometimes it happens. You'll also have to remove the fuel pump from the cover before trying to put the front cover on as the arm for the pump won't clear the eccentric that drives it.
Hope this helps.
Greg

 

Dear Mac,

Appreciate your comments. I was still staring at the old timing gears, which I haven't yet taken off.

As far as getting them lined up, I'm still not exactly sure what would be best. The clearest mark, is the slot on the crank gear, which I can turn until it is straight up on top. Then, there is a dot/dash on the outside of the cam gear, near the teeth, which, of course, can be in either of two positions, as the crank gear goes around twice. It comes close to the top, and then close to the bottom, but certainly doesn't line up in any way with the crank gear slot. Its almost a 1/16 of a turn off. Bingo! Thats my slop!

Now the old timing set is in good condition, no wear in evidence, just a generous slack in the old stretched chain.

Then, the most crucial feature on the cam gear seems to be that central (but off centered) set bolt hole., which is on a radius with the dash.

Now I am thinking that the only thing important, is that I put the new ones back on the same as the old ones were, but it was way out of time? I'm still just staring at it.

By the way, I see what you mean about that long fuel pump arm; so I've got it off and cleaned up ready to go.

Cheers, --------Aquagirl