OK, Quantalimo, I'm going with your advice: took out the plugs and will let them dry out overnight. They were wet, by the way.

About this brain box business, I'm just not expecting to find one, since my distributor definitely has got breaker points in it. Nevertheless, I am also not at all surprised that your ultra-modern '75 has got electronic ignition; that's progress.

So, if it don't start tomorrow, I'm going to take that voltage regulator back to the Zone, and get me a new one.---Aquagirl

 

If the battery is up to snuff,there is a enough power to run the ignition system.
Only when the battery drops below 8 volts will the ignition die.

The Voltage regulator is part of the charging system, not the ignition system.

 

Below is a schematic of the 73-74 ignition circuit.

 

Dear Mil1ion,

I'm inspired by your kind-hearted attention.

I'm trying to keep up with you, but I have still got to study on those schematics.

In the meanwhile:
Yes, I have worried that I got the firing order messed up when I changed the spark plug wires, but a reliable source (and old fart) told me that the order should be 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8, and I checked it and I had it right, in counter clock-wise order, of course: I know that so well, having seen that the rotor turns counter clock-wise wise, when I'm turning the crank clock wise.

I have set the new distributor points to .4mm = .016" using a feeler gage.

Finally, I have checked that the spark plugs fire to ground, and reported that yes, indeed, I have spark.......but it is a small spark, compared to what I remember having seen, checking for fire in the past.

So I am interested in doing those electrical tests which you have recommended. I will have to drive into town tomorrow and borrow that meter or light which you referred to. What exactly are these electircal tester devices called (say, between Kentucky good old boys)?

Thanks----Aquagirl

 

Test light = $5.00

Now you need something to test the coil.
Multi-Meter aka V.O.Meter= $10.00

What Colour are the sparks Yellow or Blue ?


Spark tester?
Here is one type.

http://www.autotoolexpress.com/thexigsparte1.html


Others can look like a little pocket screwdriver.

http://www.cvfsupplycompany.com/inigspartes.html


Did you check out the link I posted in the previous reply ?

 

Mil1ion,

Thanks again.

When I checked for spark to ground, I would say the sparks were orange (or yellow, I guess) definitely not blue.

I'll go about looking for those tester/meters tomorrow.

By the way, along the way, I've put in a new battery, and now I've just changed the coil.

I have also just taken a quick look at that link "ignition and timing" you gave me. I see that the voltage regulator is a part of the charging system and, therefore, at least at the moment, is probably not my problem.

Ciao.

 

I'll watch for you tomorrow.

 

I must report my frustration:

My truck is still not starting, and, at least for today,
I was unsucessful rustling up either a light meter, or VO meter, or spark meter.

One thing I seemed to determine:
I checked again my fire to ground, and carefully noticed the color:
It's orange and a small spark. I've come to know that, that is all wrong. The spark should be blue. I'm finding it difficult to imagine where to turn next. Any ideas??????

Thanks,
Aquagirl

 

When you changed the points, did you also change the condensor?

 

Good evening D,

You definitely need some test equip.
The coil needs testing for one thing.

With a V.O. meter set on 20,000 ohms you should have between 4000- 10,000 ohms resistance between the center terminal to the - distributor side of the coil.

If it is higher or lower than these values,the coil is toast.


Have a look at this page when you have some time.

http://autorepair.about.com/gi/dynam...com%2Fbasae%2F


It is pretty good for explaining things.

 

She said she just replaced the coil, so I would not think that is the problem....

Aquagirl - "By the way, along the way, I've put in a new battery, and now I've just changed the coil."

Now that I read this all over again, some things that she has not said are, Spark Gap/what they look like, what the cap/rotor look like, and if she replaced the condenser when replacing the other parts... Like pdqford said...
Also be very careful about flooding the block... I know someone who burnt up seals and gaskets that way, also I have flooded an engine before and had a mist of gas in my block and let her sit over night and still a very loud POOOPPP BBANNNGG!! Not to sure if it is dangerous or not but it can do some harm cant it?

 

I agree with dave..
Also you "DIST CAP" could be bad and could be the culprut (""Was it raining day you truck last ran"")..A microscopic crack(That u cant see, this has happend to me) inside could cause hard starting and in combo with block flood.

(Also POINTS) may need to be replaced and gaped..check to see if they are burned..

THEN REMEMBER!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Even if u fix problem and block is flooded it still wont start..untill u pull out plugs and blow all gas out of block..

As many failed attempts u had at starting it up...
your block is probably Flooded by now For sure...

( If u live in alaska...it may be your "choke" ....Have somone Hold a towel over carb the try to start vehicle )
Im willin to bet money at this point,,,,, one of these are it
But im dyin to find out what it is

 

Me 2.......

 

It sounds like a condensor or possibly the voltage to the coil is too low.

OR, and this happened to me...... my truck was so rusted that the grounds to the body were bad and when I turned on my headlights the truck would die. I fixed it by adding a ground wire from the battery to the fender. check that all your grounds are good from the cab to engine ect.

 

Hey! This thread is getting bogged down, and I'm sure the major fault is mine, not being able to get my truck started.

Let me try and get things up-to-date:

After I change the voltage regulator, I decided that the battery was shot and not taking a charge any more, so I put in a new battery.

After that, it has been turning over strong, but not starting, so I went about the usual sequence of trouble shooting business; at least, as well as I know it.

Checked for fuel in the carbuerator. Check.

Checked for spark. Getting spark, but weak and yellow, not blue.

Then I noticed my sparkplugs are badly fouled. And my points are burnt out.

So I did a fairly complete tune-up, long over do for this often abused firewood, hay and horse manure hauler:

New spark plugs, gapped at .7mm= .025", and new spark plug wires.

New distributor cap, rotor, condenser, and points, gapped at .4mm=.016".

At this point, I was disturbed to find that the engine still turns over strong but doesn't start.

My brother tells me the next thing to check is the coil, so I put in a new coil, but still doesn't start.

I then followed Mil1ion and Racerdave's instructions, and determined that the timing was "pretty well aligned", and the slop in the timing chain was "perhaps" tolerable (less than or equal to 1/16 of a turn.

Over night, following Quantalisimo's suggestion, I let the spark plugs sit on the kitchen table to dry out, having turned over the engine to blow out any excess fuel.

The guy at Autozone who sold me the new coil said the best way he knew how to check if the coil is good, is to have me hold onto it while my brother turns the igntion. Said it would hurt, but not too bad. Anyway, I'm not guessing that a brand new coil is the problem, although I do lean instinctively with Mil1ion: One should be able to gauge out the wiring and locate the problem, at least in theory.

The bottom line is:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::I've got a weak yellow spark plug spark to ground!

I am thinking seriously about the bad ground possibility suggested by Tellico Racing. I guess he means the cable off the negative terminal of the battery? Any other ideas?

Thanks a bunch-------Aquagirl