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Tools for pulling a turbo

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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 07:42 PM
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Tools for pulling a turbo

Alright fellas. I think i may have finally stumbled upon me a turbo system.
Gonna go check it out this saturday, any special tools i need to pull this sucker? he has the whole system still on a running engine so ill be getting crossover pipe down pipe comp everything. what all hoses and couplers and wiring will there be?
thanks a ton!
pumped up to finally be getting somewhere on this haha
 
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 08:47 PM
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'94IDITurbo7.3's Avatar
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no special tools needed. the nuts that hold the x-over pipe to manis is 9/16". get both valve covers, one to get the CDR moved to the VC and the other so the glow plug controller can sit on the pass side VC. wanna say the turbo pedastal to intake mani bolts are 1/2", but not positive. i think the intake hat bolt is 9/16" grab the oil feed line, i guess there is an adapter that screws into the oil feed port in the engine block and then the oil feed line goes on that. get that adapter as well.

that should be about it.

FYI, all ^^^^is for a factory turbo. what turbo are you getting?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 06:09 AM
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factory 7.3l
Sounds good to me brother. I may skip out on school this afternoon and go pull it hahah
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 11:26 AM
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A set of deep sockets and extentions and a wobble will make taking the cross over and up pipe easier. I also like to have good ratech wrenches and stubby wrenches to take the trubo off the up pipe.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 04:54 PM
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i would just pull the turbo and up-pipe as one unit.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 04:55 PM
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btw, i think the factory downpipe v-band clamp is 7/16"
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 06:33 PM
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alright sounds good, didn't get to go tonight but tomorrow afternoon i'll be going over there trying my damndest to get that thing home in one day
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 09:52 PM
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One more thing, 94IDI you say i need both valve covers, i know the reasoning for the passenger side with the CDR but the drivers side is for the GPC? I have a push button glow plug set up so would i need the other valve cover?
 
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Old Apr 1, 2013 | 10:41 PM
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Pulled the turbo off my truck couple weeks ago and I needed a set of short combo wrenches other than that maybe a floppy ratchet extension. Pretty strait forward but some of the nuts are in tight spots hence the nubbie wrenches.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 05:18 AM
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i have SOME stub wrenches, lets hope they're the right ones hahah
 
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 03:52 PM
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the dirvers side VC is for the CDR. the pass side lets the glow plug relay sit on the VC, the turbo will be in the way of the GP relay with the GP relay in the N/A location.
 
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 08:05 PM
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Can't i just relocate it somehwere else?i didn't pull that and i'm notgonna drive 45 minutes again for one piece, might go to the JY and get it
 
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 08:18 PM
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On the back of my engine where the oil feed tube there is a bell shaped thing with a connector on the very top. What is this? The oil feed tube will take its place so idk what it could be, just brain food
 
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Old Apr 2, 2013 | 09:27 PM
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The bell shaped thing is the oil pressure sender. That one is the actual sender that shows pressure, unlike the crappy switch in the later trucks. Generally on the factory turbos, the sender is moved to the top of the turbo where the oil tube connects. You will probably see the smaller oil pressure switch in that spot on the factory turbo. I think you'll just be able to swap it with your bell shaped sender, but its possible there may be some clearance issues?

I have the aftermarket ATS kit that has the oil feed from a spot near the oil filter on the rear drivers side of the block. The pressure switch/sender is still in the stock location. Also, only the factory turbos had the GPC moved to the valve covers. The turbo does not block the stock location in the back. Its over the relay/controller, and may make it a pain in the *** to replace it, but does not interfere. My guess is Ford moved it to make it easier to access the GPC/relay for testing and maintenance, but also to keep it further away from the heat from the turbo. You do NOT have to move the glow plug system. Also, I'm guessing since you have a 6.9 (going off the signature), you have the old glow plug system, so its a moot point anyways...

This would be a good time to swap to the new system if you can pull the valve cover, controller and harness when you get the turbo. I don't know if the stock N/A controller could be moved to the valve cover anyways, I think the wires would be the wrong length to work right.

I'm 95% sure that the nuts holding my crossover pipe to the exhaust manifold is a 5/8" socket, not the 9/16" mentioned earlier. But as long as you have a good assortment you should be ok, maybe the sized changed over the years? Some WD-40 (or whatever..) would be a good idea as those bolts and others may be really rusted up. However I was extremely surprised that they came right off on my truck and still in great shape!! I thought for sure they'd be toast like the ones I had to deal with changing a manifold on my 94 ranger. Not only that, but I was able to swap the studs from the manifold to the y-shaped ATS collector piece without any problem. That really blew my mind considering how many other bolts I've had break or needed to cut off.
 
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Old Apr 3, 2013 | 05:41 AM
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Ah so i just take the plug that was on the bell shaped sender on the b lock and plug it onto the turbo where it's designated? or put the whole bell on it? i won't be able to sit down and look at it all till this weekend.
Mine says Garret on it? but it sure enough came off of a 7.3l idi.
And it will need a rebuild.
Also where does the CDR route to now that it is moved to the top of the VC
 
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