I am redoing my 68 bed and wonder what people have done for the seam that runs along the bed.I have heard to put the metal filler in there I don't want to weld it all in.So what have you used and did it hold up from cracking?

 

I use body shop cauking not the quick set stuff Geez forget the name of it. Did mind back in 1995 still looks great no cracks or rust lines. But good prep work is needed. I used a wire wheel and cleaned any rust out the area. Then used some rust remover a few times hosed it out good then dried with compressed air. Then worked as much sealer into the crack line. Then I did what instructions said was to use a wet Finger to work in sealer as this smooths out the sealer just enough for a nice long line front to back. But have a can of water Handy to keep your finger wet. Yes it's latex oh, different project job but sorry it's a Urethane . I even did the complete drip rail. But Noticed 2 yrs ago cab drip rail was starting to crack so wired all the old sealer out and re-did it. The supply store counter man said this other stuff works good.They were out of stock on the slow set stuff so. ****, I should not have not listened too him, I screwed up and got the quick fast n firm sitting stuff Damn can't work it much more then 10 minutes. Need 2 guys to work this stuff. One putting it down & other with a wet finger. Well hell, I made an ugly bumpy mess as the sealer was setting up before I could get it filled in all the way around the rail. Now I'll have to re-do before getting it painted. "Put the sealer right on the bare metal seams then you can primer it in about 45-60 minuts later if weather temp is in the 70's..my 2cent.. This sealer is a like $18-20 bucks but well worth it..It was Made by 3M is all I remember "I think this was what I used Okay this was what I used just get a cauking gun go to work. (Just like doing around a bathroom tub) This was I put in the bed seams and worked great
3M™ Urethane Seam Sealer, Beige 310mL Cartridge, 08365
orich

 

I personally would weld it in and grind it smooth again. Makes for the cleanest look and ever have to worry about it cracking and getting moisture under the seam sealer.

 

I was wondering the same thing.

I really don't want to Mig weld the whole seam. It seems like it would be way too easy to warp the bedside and it would take forever if you did it right (moving around a lot and putting small tacks).

I scraped out all of what remained of the factory stuff and will need to fill it back in with something. I was going to use seam sealer, but I don't think that would give you the cleanest look. I guess there really is no other way to get a totally smooth body line without welding.

Does anyone have a pic of the side of the bed as it would have come from the factory?

 

I don't like welding eather. if you have a problem and need body work your screwed....I agree with the silicone...I went to auto body school yrs. ago and it works great with a good starting surface. Stop at a auto bode shop and ask them the name of the product. I does not shrink or crack in the sun/heat and stays flexible for the body flex/vibration. After preping the seam I would prime it to help the calk hold (my opinion only)

 

Silicon should never be used on a painted surface or under paint.

Seam sealer is the only thing that can be used. Either in a tube or from a can.

 

I would think you would need some kind of rust preventative/convertor applied to the seam before sealing it back up. If not, it WILL come through again. Might take a few years.

I agree, no silicone. It won't accept paint and will always be soft. Needs to be seam sealer.