F stock owner thanks for that post! Very helpful!
I noticed the bracket said no drilling but didn't realize it utilized the license plate bolt holes. All very good points that the 2 studs on the bar are the weak point, and that welding on it may cause damage.

I also intend in using the upfitter switches instead of high beam switch.

Cant wait!

 

[quote=ForemanES;13011636]
One common complaint with LEDs is that it doesn't shine out that far.... Have either of you noticed your 20" bars not going beyond your high beams?[/quote]

They may be confusing the LED floods with the LED spots. The spot will make your high beams look puny. I seem to remember that Rigid also offers a combination spot/flood which I imagine would be a tradeoff so that each is only a percentage (say, 50/50) of light for each compared to a dedicated unit. Be sure to get the one you want.

 

Did you get the spot, flood or combo?

 

I got the 20" spot mounted in the bumper. I was after distance. For me it still works as a work light as long as I'm not parked too close to the work and the work isn't spread out. I don't anticipate using it as a work light very often.

 

I just bought the 20" rigid bar and I'm going to mount in the bumper this weekend.

Those of you that wired into up fitter switch, how did route the wires and did you use the factory harness with relay and fuse or did you modify it? I realize that the up fitter switches already have fuses and relays so I know it's not nesscessary but it won't hurt to leave them in there(factory harness) right?

I just looking to get a clean install that will last.

Thanks in advance.

 

Use the upfitter and the pass through wire. Not enough draw to worry about which switch. No need for factory fuse. Do use heat shrink butt connectors and wire loom.

 

I modified my Edge wire harness by cutting off the relay, fuse and switch lead. I can use these for some future project where I need a fuse and relay. Like pbeering says, they are not needed and would only complicate things if you try to use them. I routed my harness along the edge of the drivers side wheel well liner up and over the spring tower and back down still along the edge of the liner. I drilled holes near the edge of the liner every 4 or 5 inches for tie wraps. I came up into the cab by drilling a hole under the door sill plate (it just snaps in) and installing a rubber gromet. From there is was simple to tie into one of the four upfitter leads under the dash. Someone else may have a better way but this should at least give you an idea for avoiding hot or moving parts (i.e. axle). My 2012 F-250, 350, 450, 550 Wiring Diagrams Manual shows Upfitter switches are rated:
#1 - 25A wire color yellow (YE)
#2 - 25A wire color green/brown (GR-BN)
#3 - 10A wire color violet/green (VT-GN)
#4 - 15A wire color brown (BN)
Your owners manual will have this same info. IMHO #4 is the one to use since that is the same rating as Edge used for their harness fuse. The down side is that it's the furthest away from driver. Save #'s 1&2 for high current stuff. It's all up to you. Hope all works out well. Let us know what you think when you finish your installation.

Pbeering: What is the "pass through wire" you are referring to? Looks like an opportunity for me to learn something.

 

08 and newer have a set of blunt cut wires under the dash by the parking brake and on the fire wall near the brake fluid reservoir.

 

Pbeering, Thanks. My wiring manual only make reference to the customer access wires under the dash. I'll have to remmeber to take a look next time I'm outside.

 

Ok I found the "pass through wires" by the fuse panel but they don't seem to match the color of the wires that are under the dash which are labeled aux 1-4. Do you know what color goes with what #? or are they labeled as well but I just can't see them???????

I'm already using #4 for high idle

 

There are pass thru wires and upfitter wires. All are colored differently. Pick whichever upfitter switch, and connect it to one of the pass thru wires. Then connect your light wire to the same color pass thru under the hood. Be sure to ground to the battery. Heat shrink butt connectors are recommended for the outside connections.

 

Ahhh.... Now I got it!!! I'm a little slow today Thanks pbeering!

 

They do offer the front license plate kit for the bar.

 

This is the 20" Combo Bar on my F250. I know its hard to see, but its incredibly bright.