LED Light Bar
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: AZ
LED Light Bar
I'm really itching for a 20" light bar to mount in the bumper. Rigid seems to be the standard for American made light bars and they cost $665 all day long. I've recently found KC makes light bars and a 20" can be had for $425 (click here)
Apparently the company that went by Bulldog Lighting merged with KC. Anyways they seem to be decent light and not another made in China option and comes with KC's 23 year warranty vs Rigid lifetime.
My problem is that there isn't THAT much information out on them. They are 120 watts compared to Rigids 85 watts. Also has 100 more lumens than the Rigid. One last thing is the KCs had a larger operating temperature.
I could have the KC for $250 less it seems light LEDs are finally dropping from their outrageous pricing. You guys have any opinions?
Apparently the company that went by Bulldog Lighting merged with KC. Anyways they seem to be decent light and not another made in China option and comes with KC's 23 year warranty vs Rigid lifetime.
My problem is that there isn't THAT much information out on them. They are 120 watts compared to Rigids 85 watts. Also has 100 more lumens than the Rigid. One last thing is the KCs had a larger operating temperature.
I could have the KC for $250 less it seems light LEDs are finally dropping from their outrageous pricing. You guys have any opinions?
Elder User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 502
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From: North Georgia
I don't know anything about their lights, I have the rigid.
I bought mine off of ebay for $500.00 To me it was worth it. It's movable so I can move it to another vehicle, great company, they stand behind their products.
I have two 6" light bars for my atv's so knew they we're a good product.
My 20" rigid is plenty bright enough for me. Their customer service is really good.
Here's my light bar.
I bought mine off of ebay for $500.00 To me it was worth it. It's movable so I can move it to another vehicle, great company, they stand behind their products.
I have two 6" light bars for my atv's so knew they we're a good product.
My 20" rigid is plenty bright enough for me. Their customer service is really good.
Here's my light bar.
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Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 639
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From: K.C. MO
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From: AZ
Both of your trucks look great. Thanks for the reply
I checked out M&R they seem to be very popular on Raptor forums and looks like they can mount in our bumpers.
One common complaint with LEDs is that it doesn't shine out that far.... Have either of you noticed your 20" bars not going beyond your high beams?
I checked out M&R they seem to be very popular on Raptor forums and looks like they can mount in our bumpers.
One common complaint with LEDs is that it doesn't shine out that far.... Have either of you noticed your 20" bars not going beyond your high beams?
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 561
Likes: 2
From: Indianapolis, IN
I have the Rigid 30" combo bar on the flagship of the fleet. After the Christmas blizzard, they became our new lighting standard. Depending on how you aim, vastly superior to high beams and fabulous for working. lots of output, low draw, and great support. They have become the standard for a number of military, construction, and farming applications. Not cheap, but well worth it.
We will be adding these lights to the the rest of the fleet prior to next season.
We will be adding these lights to the the rest of the fleet prior to next season.
Elder User
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 502
Likes: 3
From: North Georgia
Both of your trucks look great. Thanks for the reply
I checked out M&R they seem to be very popular on Raptor forums and looks like they can mount in our bumpers.
One common complaint with LEDs is that it doesn't shine out that far.... Have either of you noticed your 20" bars not going beyond your high beams?
I checked out M&R they seem to be very popular on Raptor forums and looks like they can mount in our bumpers.
One common complaint with LEDs is that it doesn't shine out that far.... Have either of you noticed your 20" bars not going beyond your high beams?
It'll to way farther than headlights. But then again the headlights on these aren't the best. I can get you a shot tomorrow night if you'd like.
It's one of the reasons I'm putting hids and projector headlights on mine. Headlights just don't get bright enough when doing 60 or so.
My rigid has been on a year and works like a champ. I had it wired up with a rocker switch. I also have two of their small cube lights on the rear bumper for making trailer hookups and working in back easier.
You can find a cheaper rigid bar on ebay or online. You can easily save a hundred or so by shopping. For me I wouldn't go with another company after using Rigid.
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From: AZ
That would be awesome if you could snap a pic I'd really appreciate that.
I actually just removed the HIDs i put in about 6 months ago. I was to the point of spend $6-800 more to put projectors in or back to halogen h13s and get LED light bar. I already installed some Phillips extreme bulbs and the output is decent but nothing like the HIDs. So if anyone here is interested in a 6 month old HID kit (and only if you promise to put them in projectors
) I'd be willing to part with it.
Retro Solutions 55w 4300k H13 bi-xenon.
Amazing light output and I aimed down but anytime I was on a road other than in the middle of town I would get flashed. Reading that they are illegal in original housings did me in and I went back to halogen so hence my light bar search. Anyways I really appreciate this feedback! I've been eyeing a Rigid on ebay so we will see what happens with that.
I actually just removed the HIDs i put in about 6 months ago. I was to the point of spend $6-800 more to put projectors in or back to halogen h13s and get LED light bar. I already installed some Phillips extreme bulbs and the output is decent but nothing like the HIDs. So if anyone here is interested in a 6 month old HID kit (and only if you promise to put them in projectors
) I'd be willing to part with it.Retro Solutions 55w 4300k H13 bi-xenon.
Amazing light output and I aimed down but anytime I was on a road other than in the middle of town I would get flashed. Reading that they are illegal in original housings did me in and I went back to halogen so hence my light bar search. Anyways I really appreciate this feedback! I've been eyeing a Rigid on ebay so we will see what happens with that.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 366
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From: Bel Air MD
I have a 30" bar on my truck and love it. We have done a few Bulldog Lighting installs and not had an issue yet. I have posted a few videos from them on my website at www.theblinkproject.com I think we have a 6" a 10" and 2 30" install videos. Bulldog makes some great products at great prices.
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I don't know anything about their lights, I have the rigid.
I bought mine off of ebay for $500.00 To me it was worth it. It's movable so I can move it to another vehicle, great company, they stand behind their products.
I have two 6" light bars for my atv's so knew they we're a good product.
My 20" rigid is plenty bright enough for me. Their customer service is really good.
Here's my light bar.
I bought mine off of ebay for $500.00 To me it was worth it. It's movable so I can move it to another vehicle, great company, they stand behind their products.
I have two 6" light bars for my atv's so knew they we're a good product.
My 20" rigid is plenty bright enough for me. Their customer service is really good.
Here's my light bar.
Is that a Westin push bar? Looks sharp! My state requires a front plate.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: San Francisco Bay Area
I have the 20" Rigid as well. Absolutely great. I also got the bracket for in bumper mounting. Easy as pie. I would guess that maybe 1/4 mile lights up like daytime. I would say more but I'm not great at judging long distances at night. I used to work for a company that makes high power LED's until I retired early. What you want is as many lumens as you can get but temperature is a killer. The KC's have more lumens because they are driving them harder. That's why the difference in wattage. I'm suprised that the difference in lumens isn't that great. Makes me think that Rigid is driving the lamps at their peak power curve while KC is over driving the lamps past their most efficient power levels. That's why the extra heat. For LED's, heat is death. Good luck on whatever product you go with.
· 6.7L diesel
· 6-speedauto trans
· Allterrain tires
· 3.31 electronic locking axle
· Allweather floor mats
· Skidplates
· 5thwheel hitch prep package
· Heavy-duty200A alternator
· Leatherheated/cooled seats
· Navigationsystem
· Memorygroup
· Remotestart system
· Rearview camera
· Reversesensing system
· Trailertow package
· LEDinterior lighting
· LEDBrake lights
· LEDrunning lights under doors - Amber
· LEDground lights - White
· LEDDRL's - White
· 20"Rigid light bar in bumper - White
· 6.7L diesel
· 6-speedauto trans
· Allterrain tires
· 3.31 electronic locking axle
· Allweather floor mats
· Skidplates
· 5thwheel hitch prep package
· Heavy-duty200A alternator
· Leatherheated/cooled seats
· Navigationsystem
· Memorygroup
· Remotestart system
· Rearview camera
· Reversesensing system
· Trailertow package
· LEDinterior lighting
· LEDBrake lights
· LEDrunning lights under doors - Amber
· LEDground lights - White
· LEDDRL's - White
· 20"Rigid light bar in bumper - White
Last edited by F stock owner; Apr 4, 2013 at 09:23 PM. Reason: add truck info
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
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From: AZ
SlickYamaha I actually watched those videos awhile back 
Great looking trucks!
F stock owner that is a great point! The fact that KC needs 42 watts more but only increases output by 100 lumen means Rigid has its ducks in a row. Since you have the exact setup I want I was curious if you secured the bar in any way to prevent it being stolen? Its gonna take me 2 months to save for the thing and have been thinking of possibly tack welding the nuts or something.
Great looking trucks! F stock owner that is a great point! The fact that KC needs 42 watts more but only increases output by 100 lumen means Rigid has its ducks in a row. Since you have the exact setup I want I was curious if you secured the bar in any way to prevent it being stolen? Its gonna take me 2 months to save for the thing and have been thinking of possibly tack welding the nuts or something.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 118
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From: San Francisco Bay Area
ForemanES
Maybe I used the wrong phrase "easy as pie". First off you need to relocate the front license. I moved mine straight down onto the air dam using stainless steel 1/4" hardware and four 2" x 1" diameter spacers.The Rigid bracket uses the holes for the license on the bumper and two other holes and two other bolts that already exist. The two bolts that use the license plate holes are Allen heads. Not something I would think a thief would carry around but even less common are Torx so I substituted the two Allens for Torx. Probably way overkill because the light bar is only held on by two self-locking (nylon insert) nuts. The only deterrent is that the nuts by nature don't just spin off when loose so I double nutted using two self lockers. I had to file the huts thinner because the stud isn't very long but you can buy thinself-lockers. Over all, probably not much of a deterrent but maybe the extratime required would dissuade a thief. Tack welding would work for the bracket but I doubt someone would spend the time on the bracket. I'd also worry about inducing high current or voltage into the electronics with the welder. The weak spot is the light bar with only two short studs. If someone comes up with a better way to secure the lamp head I would love to hear it. Better yet, I would like to see Rigid design in something, but it's too late for me if they did. For now I just don't worry about it. Sorry this is long winded. Hope it helps. BTW. For what's it's worth, I used upfitter #4 (15A) and modified the Rigid harness eliminating the fuse and switch. I saved #'s 1 & 2 for future high current stuff. Good luck and enjoy.
Maybe I used the wrong phrase "easy as pie". First off you need to relocate the front license. I moved mine straight down onto the air dam using stainless steel 1/4" hardware and four 2" x 1" diameter spacers.The Rigid bracket uses the holes for the license on the bumper and two other holes and two other bolts that already exist. The two bolts that use the license plate holes are Allen heads. Not something I would think a thief would carry around but even less common are Torx so I substituted the two Allens for Torx. Probably way overkill because the light bar is only held on by two self-locking (nylon insert) nuts. The only deterrent is that the nuts by nature don't just spin off when loose so I double nutted using two self lockers. I had to file the huts thinner because the stud isn't very long but you can buy thinself-lockers. Over all, probably not much of a deterrent but maybe the extratime required would dissuade a thief. Tack welding would work for the bracket but I doubt someone would spend the time on the bracket. I'd also worry about inducing high current or voltage into the electronics with the welder. The weak spot is the light bar with only two short studs. If someone comes up with a better way to secure the lamp head I would love to hear it. Better yet, I would like to see Rigid design in something, but it's too late for me if they did. For now I just don't worry about it. Sorry this is long winded. Hope it helps. BTW. For what's it's worth, I used upfitter #4 (15A) and modified the Rigid harness eliminating the fuse and switch. I saved #'s 1 & 2 for future high current stuff. Good luck and enjoy.
Last edited by F stock owner; Apr 5, 2013 at 04:50 PM. Reason: Corrected spacing. Added additional info.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 118
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From: San Francisco Bay Area
Same as pbeering. Work lights, off road, and unlighted country roads. Very useful in Death Valley last month. Co-pilot does switch flipping when needed. Not very often. Also on upfitter. Wired to high beam seems like a good idea to. I'll have to think about how to do it so I can use the LEDs without the heads when I want work light.