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ok so i have a 1978 f-250 custom 4x4 with a 351m, and 4 speed manual. im looking to put a cam in it(Was thinking ***** thumpr) but im not really looking for big HP just a good aggressive sound. Any suggestions?
This was my choice 268h in my 390 .. and does everything I wanted it to but if your going to do a cam upgrade you really need to do the complete kit which includes the timing set for around $385
268H Series
This is a very versatile cam. It is a great high-performance cam for small blocks and a powerful cam for big blocks. With its noticeable idle and great all-around power, the 268H cam is great for daily-driven performance vehicles. The 268H cam is an ideal cam for pickup drivers who want major power increases. It is also good for big blocks towing heavy loads equipped with lower optional rear end gears.
Instead of selecting a cam based on "aggressive sound" why don't you look for a cam that will improve the performance of the engine. If it's "sound" you want buy the cheapest cam you cam find so that you can afford the 20" bling rims to go with it.
Chances are if you get a cam with a aggressive sound it going to be overkill for your 351m. I chose the comp cams xe256 kit for my mild 400 (tmyer pistons,weiand intake,summit racing 600cfm carb,long tubes) and it performs very well. It also has a smooth idle. Good luck.
canus,
i dont really appreciate your sarcasm but i already said that i wasnt wanting to make big power. Just want it to sound good and get a little more power Without being ridiculous....and redroad thats what i was thinking i have done various cam swaps on other motors and have always bought the whole kit, but i thought i may be able to get by without the timing chain and all. But of course i dont want to cut corners and i want it done right. so a little extra money wont hurt
351M/400 valve springs are just enough for the stock cam. With any upgrade in lift they don't work very well. Suggest you at least get matching sprigs if you change the cam.
X2 for the Comp Cams 268. Also recommend Crane Cams screw in stud kit so you can adjust the rockers. I have the 268 cam in my 400 and its great. Good power and noticeable idle. Didn't change springs but I don't rev it over 4500. The cool/funny part is I get guys asking me all the time if its a 390. LOL
Do The Rockers Need Adjusted With A Cam Swap? I An Swapping A Cam And Springs In My 400 And Was Told To Just Bolt It In And Go... Is This Not Entirely True?
Originally Posted by 79F150400M
X2 for the Comp Cams 268. Also recommend Crane Cams screw in stud kit so you can adjust the rockers. I have the 268 cam in my 400 and its great. Good power and noticeable idle. Didn't change springs but I don't rev it over 4500. The cool/funny part is I get guys asking me all the time if its a 390. LOL
my .2 cents. Im from the school of 351 Cleveland, which is what the 351M/400M is loosely based off of.
At one time I had a pile of destroyed, very rare closed chamber 4V CJ heads as a testament to the importance of matching valve springs to cam specs. The rare 4 bolt blocks didnt look much better with an intake valve stuck through the wall into the water jacket, and another stuck on top of the piston. It doesnt take much with these engines to get the valvetrains doing things they shouldnt. It took me 2 CJ motors and 1 junkyard Torino 2V cleveland to realize that my (weak) factory springs were no match for the increased lift and duration of an aftermarket cam.
Dont be this guy. Always match your valvetrain to your cam specs, follow manufacturer's suggestions.
You need taller valve springs. To not totally ruin the valve train geometry, I would look into the "beehive" springs, so your installed height isn't increased. Remember when you put in taller springs, usually the installed height gets taller but the rocker arm stays the same so that means the the tip of the rocker on the valve is higher which puts the pushrod socket lower, shortening the pushrod and preloading the hyd. lifter. This requires attention as well. I have known of a 400 with a 268 cam and brand new heads that shelled the guides in 1000-1200 miles and all because the pushrods were the wrong length. Took 3 head rebuilds to find it.
Don't be that guy either. Also remember that with bad valve train geometry your higher lift cam will lose lift at the valve and you sacrifice power and performance. Gains are now minimal compared to an engine with proper geometry and well matched parts. These aren't small block chevys.
but i thought i may be able to get by without the timing chain and all. But of course i dont want to cut corners and i want it done right. so a little extra money wont hurt
That "***** thumpr" will cost you low end torque, lost gas mileage, and less vacuum for the booster. I have a '77 with 351m and back in 1986 a few months after I bought her I installed an Edelbrock intake and Holley and a Crane "Fireball" cam with new lifters (natch) and a three way crank sprocket with new chain set straight up.
I still have stock springs on that motor however, but I have never had her much over 4500 (maybe bumped 4500 in passing gear a time or two?) nor would I suggest it.
It's a .484/.510 cam, certainly no "***** thumpr" ..... the degrees and all are the same as what you see often described as a torque cam, almost if not the same as Comp cams 265DEH. Power 1500-5700 ..... so I would say it's over-cammed for a 351m with stock pistons .... but it sounds good. I was younger then, maybe 32 when I did that (in 5 years I will have had her 1/2 my life?) ..... and that was at just over 36 K miles est .... she has 104 K plus now.
Yeah, better than stock mild cam at 4 degrees retarded before stretch, but my 400 is likely gonna get a better, some milder cam like the 255DEH (power 1000-5200 I think, likely still more cam than needed).
I'm not very familiar with the 351/400 series but i run a comp cams 268H in my FE....robust idle and gobs of low end torque, not overly aggressive or "lopey", i'd recommend it.