First : this is what I have. 1992 Ford f250 lwb, extended cab, 4x4, 7.3 e4od, twin I beam front
Second: this is what I want to do. Change cab to 4 door, change bed to a swb, pull out the idi and put a 12 valve, change the front axle to the f350 Dana 60.
What I am looking for is feedback from anyone who has built their own truck. I don't want to buy someone else's truck, I am looking forward to building my own. Anyone have tips/information on whether this project is even phisically possible on my frame? Are there any truck gurus out there that have built a similar monster who would know what to be careful about?

 

You have a twin I beam 4x4? Must be pretty rare.

Welcome to the forum. Building your own truck can get expensive, making all the fabrications work together can be frustrating, costly and time consuming. I have similar aspirations however, I have already bought my 12 valve and have most everything there to put it in a Ford. I have two Dana 60 axles, front rear respectively. I am looking for a ZF5 and t-fer case. I basically got the engine for free, but need to put about 2 grand in the rebuild. The adapter for the cummins-zf5 was 800 and the axles i have about 1800 in. I don't even have the truck yet....LOL

 

2wd= Twin I beam
4wd= Twin traction beam
We knew what you meant, common mistake.

 

Your current wheel base is 155". This is 11" too long for a CC with a short bed. In order for this to work you will have to cut your frame. The problem is that the frame slopes down just forward of the rear cab mounts, so to do this right, you will need to EXTEND the frame 7" underneath the cab, and SHORTEN the frame 18" behind the cab. If you only shorten it 11" behind the cab, the slope wont clear the longer cab floor and a fairly ghastly body lift will be required. You will need to have your drive shaft shortened and re-balanced. Fuel lines, brake lines, e brake cable, exhaust and mid-ship fuel tank position all need to be considered. This is a LOT of work. Not trying to be discouraging, but this is spectacularly more difficult than shortening the bed on a CCLB truck. If you keep the CC vin plate, it will not match the frame vin which may or may not matter to you, depending on your registration needs. If you illegally swap the cab vin plate so that it still matches the frame, it will not be the correct vin code for a CC, which could raise issues depending on your registration needs. The legal routes involve an expensive class III inspection and a funky restored salvage title or state assigned vin. This matters more in some places than others, but I would check with your local motor vehicle deparent so you know what you are getting into before you cut up your truck. I know you said you want to build up YOUR truck, but the reality is that the 4 door cab will have to come from somewhere, and the D60 will have to come frome somewhere... and there is nothing terribly sacred about your frame. I would strongly suggest that you look for a D60 CC with a clear title, and shorten it to a 6.5' bed. If that is the truck you want, it will be way less expensive than modifying yours, and you will avoid title and registration issues as well. Just something to think about. Also, read some of the high performance IDI threads on this forum. Might change how you feel about that 12 V swap!

 

Gen 2 12 valve would be the motor your after. If you go that route it would be easier and cheaper to use the dodge 5 or 6 speed manual rather than an adapter plate and clutch issues. The drive shafts must be modified anyhow with axel swap and frame cutting. Take 11 inches out of the frame about a foot in front of the front rear shackle. Weld flat plate inside frame for strength and the add cut section to cab section welding it with flare plate inside long enough to overlap both cuts. The cab can be found at a wrecking yard with title for around a grand. Look around for a king pin axel. Their out there. Set ya back 1500 or so. Cummins 12 v is around $2500 the tranny around $1500 with transfer case. Drive shaft mods are $100 each unless you go custom. If you can do your own fab work you can save some. The motor mounts are easy to build. The tranny mount just needs 2 holes drilled. Your radiator needs to be moved forward 1/2 inch. Get an inner cooler from a 96/97 powerstroke along with radiator. Wiring is easy. You only need one GOOD battery. And that's just the surface. Now double the prices for all the little things and your close to budget. Good luck. These aren't as easy to do as some think. Put your power train in prior to the cab. It will make for a smoother project.

 

I second that. Would be allot cheaper to purchase a 4x4 crew cab 350. Could even find one cheap that is gas.

 

Non diesel vin can be a problem if emissions are required for registration. Again depends on your needs. Personally I would side step future issues and seek a CC 4x4 diesel vin, with clear title, not salvage.