Cool looking 302 you have there. I haven't seen anyone else build one of these with a factory roller block. One of the problems I ran into was that the taller lifters required shorter pushrods, that created more pushrod angle than the Boss's had. My pushrods would not clear the pushrod holes in the head. I had to enlarge the holes and had one of them break into a water jacket. I was pissed, but I fixed it.

Post some more pictures and specs.

Andy

 

hmmm, I had to (let them) make the pushrods custom length because I had a simular problem during the build.

My blog has practicly all the info.
If you want / like I can make a page of your build with your trouble and issues on my blog. This can help other clevor enthousiast in the future in my believe.

I lifted my clevor into a 1970 Mustang and had some serieus trouble with the headers, the fitment of both steering and alternator, and a lot more.

My advice, Build only a Clevor if you want to make something you don't see everyday, something oldskool or and one hack of a cool engine.
All other, get a 347 stroker or something in that range with alu heads or such, much cheaper, less trouble !

 

Very nice 70 sportsroof.
Is that the Unisteer rack. I just bought the Unisteer for my fathers 68 coupe. Gonna try it.
What trans is that. Looks like 4spd with a skattershield. Do you have mechanical clutch linkage or hydraulic. It's hard to tell.
I picked up the Modern Driveline internal slave hydraulic clutch kit, for the Kessler t45 just in case I can't get the stock z-bar to work.
How long have you had the rack. I'm curious about the heim joints/rod ends as tie rods. I went with regular tie rods on my kit. I'm wondering how they are lasting.

Anyway.
I have a vintage b&a track boss intake for 2v heads on a Windsor. And a real boss 302 intake for when I do a stroker.
I had a real boss 302 with 2.25 intake valves, and while it was peppy down low, it come alive at 5k and pulled to over 8k where the tach stopped moving. These big heads don't hurt it as much as they think.

 

Yo,

This is a rack from Steeroids... to be honest, its still a bit of a problem to get it to work right. It has a hard spot in each turn, the knee cupling ( did i spell that right ) does not have the best angle. A job for the winter I would say.
The engine is in there since september this year, so I cant tell you all about the rack, i drove about 250 miles in it so far so its still a bit to get to know the engine and car plus it has the break in propperly.

As for the transmission, yes... its a 4 speed toploader with Hurst shifter.
We used the manual clutch with the original linkage system. Down-side, the equalizer bar does not line up that well in combination with the exhaust and the steeroids set, so we had to place it in a angle.

At first, we used the Boss302 hooker haeders... but they didn't fit AT ALL !
Now, we used the shorty 351C headers from sandersons and they fit much better, but had to squeeze them into because of the difference in deck-height.

I decided to go with a different set-up as yours if i understand you correctly. I want to take place at touring events and do some traffic light races, but mine starts pulling from about idle to around 6000Rpm.
Yours from 5 to 8 ! ! thats a real screamer, cool !
You must use yours on the track i suppose ? mine for road only and maybe some trackday in the future but that is not the main goal.

 

My old boss 302 I picked up from a guy who built it for a circle track racecar. But then the guy couldn't use it because the rules said it had to use a cast iron intake... No such thing for a boss.
I got the motor and tore it down, shaved some of the piston down to get it to a street able compression, put in a different solid cam, and a predator 950cfm street carb, and with the 4spd in the car it would freakin rip.
I ended up selling the motor to a guy building a 69 boss.
I wish I kept it. I had a crossboss intake for it also. But to find a rebuild kit for the inline autolite carb was impossible.

 

Any Idea if the clevor engine is still around ?







I'm concidering building such a PCV system... any idea if you could use this system in a normal street set-up, of do you need a vacuum pump along with this ?

 

I don't remember that having a pcv in it.
That setup is for racing and all it was for was to vent crankcase pressure. They had a wind age tray so not much vapor really. I think it would be unique and cool for you to have. And make adding oil easier.
A scavenging vacuum pump can help with a few applications, but I don't think this is one. I've only used it on racecars where they want that extra 3hp.

I've never owned a clevor, just a real boss 302.
I've worked on an oldschool clevor though, with 400m crank and Chrysler 6 rods, for the oldschool stroker 400cid engine. It was in a badass fairmont drag car.

 

That's an interesting observation about the problem caused by shorter and thus more angled pushrods in a roller cam "Boss" 302.

I suppose with a 351 Windsor based "Clevor" that problem would go away.

Even though the Cleveland headed Windsor is a much more troublesome (and moneysome) engine to build than a modern Windsor type aluminum headed engine, the Cleveland headed mill simply looks so good.

 

I wonder about the interference of the pushrods in the heads. The holes must be either very small or located just at the wrong place. I note that the roller 302 Windsor also has very short pushrods; would a Clevor 302 have even shorter pushrods? If anything, I thought the Cleveland heads were a little taller than the Windsor. I recently replaced the 1.6:1 ratio sled rockers with 1.7:1 ratio roller rockers on my 302 (5.0), and noted the difference in ratio comes from the pushrod side of the arm being about 6% shorter on the 1.7:1 arm. This moves the pushrod that much closer to one side of the hole, but it doesn't touch.

A long time ago, I went to JBA in San Diego to get a pair of the 2V version of the Aussie Cleveland heads. Just out of curiosity, I asked them what it would cost to do a performance head job on them. So in addition to the standard valve job that they needed, they would bore out the ports and smooth out the combustion chamber, all for about $2200. And they will custom fabricate a set of headers for any car for only $2500. It was a little pricy for me.

 

"And they will custom fabricate a set of headers for any car for only $2500. It was a little pricy for me."

Well the positive side of this is that now any of us can justify spending $2500 on a TIG welder and materials and learning to use it!

 

Building a Clevor is nog Clever.
It is much more expensive then any windsor / stroker / cleveland build with the same goals.
But I think a clevor is high set goal and believe one of the rarest engines to build in a normal street version car.
Custom made headers... for 2500,- dollars. Yeah Right, I suppose they will come and test fit with the engine in place then ? or only port matched to the head ?

I know this is a truck forum and a might be highjacking this with a mustang... but i don't believe the engine bays will not differ much ( right )

well, the boss302 hooker super competition plus headers...... do not fit ( AT ALL )









well... after banging those headers up to pieces... we ditched them and uses shortys

 

"Building a Clevor is nog Clever."

I am not too familiar with the car in the previous post, but it looks to me like it has non-stock steering and bellhousing which are the parts that are interfering with the headers.

So it may well be that the Hooker headers will work with the Mustang in stock configuration.

 

Most Mustangs with the recirculating ball steering setup need a bracket to lower the power assist cylinder in order to avoid interference with aftermarket headers. That Steeroids rack is right in the place where the cylinder would be, before being lowered. On the passenger side, where there would normally be a drag link and idler arm, is more of the much thicker rack, so things aren't going to fit. If you have to beat up those header tubes like that, it sort of defeats the purpose of headers.

 

Sorry, dutch auto correct.. buidling a Clevor is not Clever
No, it will not work, the tubes bent to far out hitting the chassis on both sides. Maybe, if I used different engine mounts that where a little higher, okay.
But with steeroids definitively not !