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hey guys, i haven't been around for a little while (truck has been running pretty good) so my apologies if this has been already discussed. i stumbled across 2 youtube videos where the guys claim that a little rub down with some 600-800 wet/dry sandpaper on the spool valve can cure stiction (cold start) problems. since my truck has been stumbling first thing in the morning i was prepping myself for swapping out some injectors...but this seem like something i can do at home no cost. thoughts?
I've heard both sides say it works and doesn't. I'm ordering a set of diy nozzel upgrades and plan on trying it I have one that starting to stick I think.but like you said if its free its worth a shot cause all your out is your time and a case of beer!
This topic was done a few weeks back.
Some info for you
0.5 Nm = 70.81 In/oz
or
4.4 In/Lb
One thing about this is ANY DIRT or GRIT and your going to have problems.
One other thought comes to mine. What about a soak in seafoam or BG 244
and that crud might just dissolve and you could wipe it off with a no lint wiper.
I have to admit I was somewhat against messing with the injectors in this way, but now after pondering it and watching a couple more videos I would have to freely admit I would totally try this if I needed to.
As I mentioned in the other thread we would do this procedure on hydraulic spool valves all the time, either from varnish or even if slightly warped... sand/polish with 1200-2000 grit paper, run over again with #00000 or finer steel wool, clean it and re-install and it worked everytime.
Josh,
what do you think about my idea of the Seafoam or BG 244
in a soak or better yet a ultrasonic cleaner?
Sean
The brake cleaner used to clean the spool is far more caustic and more likely to remove varnish that Seafoam or BG.
An ultrasonic cleaner is a good idea, but only if you have time. Or at least the ones I have seen seem to take a while to work their magic. You could polish all the injectors in an afternoon using the sandpaper/ brake cleaner method.
I often wonder what that varnish really is, as hydraulic spools exhibit the same thing. Maybe the sliding friction just gums then up, whether in an injector or hydraulic control valves.
I've seen the nicest, shiniest spool valve take down all the hydraulics on a Deere 644H loader. Just a quick pass of the 2000 grit and a spray of brake cleaner and all was well. You would bet money it wouldn't work, but it did.
The only concern I do have is if the spool does decide to hang up because of this procedure then you could possibly ruin and entire engine. A spool hangs up in a hydraulic pump, then you just remove the spool and insert a new one. No harm no foul.
Anyone have a source for brand new 6.0 spool valves?
thanks for all the replies guys! i did do a search and read the previous thread about doing this and it seems like most concerns are around the spool valve hanging open after messing around with it (which is understandable). the boys over at a different forum have been talking about this also and it seems like the one guy had good results.
(mods please forgive me if hot linking to another forum is against the rules...it is for info purposes only)
i'm tempted to try this myself (of coarse a day after i ordered some archoil 9100 to try). it seems to me that if rev-x or archoil helps some 6.0's with stiction and cold starts, the product is just allowing the spool valves to move a little more freely (hence why some people report that when not using the product the stiction problem returns). i'm sure some of the chemical properties in the additive will help lift some of the varnishing on the spool valve, but nothing like getting in there and removing it by hand. if someone was going to try this would it be advisable to use new o-rings and copper crush washers? commonsense tells me yes but i have to ask since i haven't had the pleasure of messing around with my injectors yet. thanks guys
If IRC, we all sort of agreed a solvent method might be top choice and both the heavy grit and lax cleansing after had us troubled with the U-tube procedure last time we discussed this...
I guess I'd do it if I was gonna' sell it soon, otw new (ok rebuilt) sticks...
The BG 244 seems to be very aggressive and also the BG 44K for gas engines
really works fast even when you take into account the fact that it's 11 oz
into a 20 gal tank same with the BG 244. So putting it undiluted into a cleaner
and placing the valve in should strip something off. I have the feeling that the
so called varnish is really coked oil and you see that around the tops of pistons
where the oil stains the sides and is baked on.
So my thoughts on this is the oil gets hot and leaves some coking on the metal
parts. I guess an easy test would be to take a piston and dip it and see how long it
takes to remove the gunk.
I wouldn't recommend using sand paper on these things. Think about how tight the tolerances are on those valves. Any sort of looseness in the valve means its dumping fuel past the injector. If anything I'd just take some strong solvent and a shop rag and rub the hell out of it.
I wouldn't recommend using sand paper on these things. Think about how tight the tolerances are on those valves. Any sort of looseness in the valve means its dumping fuel past the injector. If anything I'd just take some strong solvent and a shop rag and rub the hell out of it.
Spools are surface hardened, you aren't going to sand any metal off.
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