Boyd’z Toy

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Jul 10, 2013 | 11:09 PM

#16

Boyd'z Toy

Thread Starter

Junior User

Joined: Mar 2013

Posts: 76

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Boyd'z Toy

My plans are to use this thread as dumping grounds for any dealings with my truck, which I have named Boyd’z Toy.
As I fix, modify, upgrade, and add new features to my truck I will list them here and link the adjoining post to the subject matter listed in this post. This will allow others, to easily find the information that I will list in this opening post, as I do em.
I have a 1990 model white, Reg cab short wheel base f150. With the 5.0L Speed density engine, AOD trans, 8.8 3.55 open rear, and 265-75 R15 tires.
Need Fixings: Temp Gauge, Brake light stays on, ABS light stays on ( when I have the RABS plugged in) leaky rear axle ( not a dry spot on it), Sloppy steering, Blown power steering pump, nonfunctioning A/C, Crooked bed, Popping sound coming from driver side rear suspension when weight is removed from bed, Minor wiring issues
Completed Fixings: Replace motor due to, multiple leaks of oil and massive coolant leak that ultimately caused a loss of compression; Both fuel pumps replaced; All new coolant system; Replaced speedo (because like any grown male, I was playing with something that I shouldn’t have been playing with when I was modifying the gauge cluster)
Future Modifications: Oil gauge mod, Six liter tune up, EGR block, Smog Delete, Duel Battery with isolator; Lower 3/5; Poly Bushings and body mounts; four hole fuel injectors.
Completed Modifications: Gauge Cluster Scrape (Allows you to change the lighted color of the gauges), I6/7.5L intake tube (cold air intake),
Future Upgrades: 3G alternator swap, Saginaw power steering pump swap, Bassani style Y-Pipe, Hi-flow exhaust, Relay low-high beam headlights, GT40 heads, Cam, Roller rockers, MAF, Bronco rear fuel tank; Larger trans cooler; Repurpose old trans cooler as an engine oil cooler; 4.10 LS axle swap
Completed Upgrades: Shorty headers; Electric Fans;
Future Additions: Trans Temp Gauge that will be wired up to also act as Engine Coolant, Oil, and Axle Temp gauge; Vacuum Gauge; Sway Bars;
Completed Additions: Remote start system (removed when truck started leaking every fluid known to mankind); Keyless entry, (disabled due to battery draining), CD player (who still uses that outdated crap?), XM radio (removed because it melted my glove box?!), Wal-mart floor mat (what you know something not disabled, or removed…*sigh*)
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Seems as tho I can no longer can edit the first post so I'll just quote it as I update.

Things that I have fixed so far have been the temp gauge and brake light staying on. The temp sensor for the gauge had gone bad and needed replacing, the brake warning light was due to the little float inside the master cylinder was no longer floating

. The ABS light still stays on and when I try to get it to tell me what is wrong, by grounding out the little test port under the dash the lights only stays on doesn't blink. So I have disconnected the RABS under the dash. But with every fix comes an other

, this one seems to be taxing my ability to control my temper

and I have had to walk away more than once. I have created a thread in hopes that others here on FTE might have had a similar issue, but all seems to be a goose hunt

. If you want to read about it is here at Runs like crap.

But if I have to dig into the truck, it will give me a chance to upgrade the Speed density to mass air flow, and to upgrade the injectors to the four hole type. While I'm there might as well replace the heads with GT40s and the cam.

What would be the best cam for the 5.0L with GT40 heads and MAF?
I tend to keep my RPMs below 2grand, daily driver.

Jul 11, 2013 | 12:06 AM

#17

blue924.9

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Joined: Feb 2013

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Doesn't really matter, due to the nature of the beast, 5.0 doesn't make a whole,lot of power under 2 grand. In fact keeping it under two grand my 4.9 out accelerates my 5.0 by a long shot, especially with a trailer, hell when ,my 5.0 takes two grand to get a loaded trailer moving ,my 4.9 will idle away with it, if not all it needs is 1000 rpm to get it moving

Jul 11, 2013 | 03:27 PM

#18

Nickk97tml

More Turbo

Joined: Mar 2011

Posts: 635

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Quote:

Originally Posted by blue924.9

5.0 doesn't make a whole,lot of power under 2 grand.

my nearly stock 5.0 can throw around my 33's like nothing, just gotta get the gearing right.

a little off topic but do you see snow where you live? and how long have you had your headers? they are just steel right? how are they holding up?

Jul 11, 2013 | 03:45 PM

#19

blue924.9

Posting Guru

Joined: Feb 2013

Posts: 1,555

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Nickk97tml

What gears do you have and at what rpm? It's just how the 5.0 works, not a lot of power under 2 grand

Jul 11, 2013 | 03:49 PM

#20

Evan_P

Logistics Pro

Joined: Mar 2012

Posts: 3,507

Likes: 121

From: Oregon

4.56 gears will wake just about any engine up with 33's, even the 5.0.

As for Headers Nick, you being up and Canada, I would recommend getting some that are ceramic coated. They wont rust away and will stay nice and pretty MUCH longer.

Jul 11, 2013 | 03:55 PM

#21

Nickk97tml

More Turbo

Joined: Mar 2011

Posts: 635

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Evan_P

yea thanks, every exhaust shop i went to up here wont do them because they will "rust quick" and "start leaking" that im "spending my money foolishly" with "next to no power gains" Its like they don't want my business. sorry i had to rant.

Jul 12, 2013 | 12:21 PM

#22

Boyd'z Toy

Thread Starter

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Joined: Mar 2013

Posts: 76

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Where I live, we don't get much snow, and when we do the DOT here doesn't use salt. So my headers have been holding up real good for that past 7 or 8 years. They are as ugly as sin, were from the first use. But, the first three years that I had them, I lived in a area that would salt the roads if the temps so much as thought of getting below 38*F....

The shorty headers don't help with anything, but were better than cracked exhaust manifolds.