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i got some info here the other day, wanted to put some #s out there, both batteries 12.57 and clean. relay big term. is same with key off 12.57,always hot. turn key on wts for g/p,s -the always hot one is 11.50 and other big one is 11.24 -both little ones have .02 with key off. checked all connections i could get to. unplugged wire going into v/c just checked 1 had 11.24[1 going to g/p] any sug. preciated
my 96pws used to not start under 50 deg. [had to plug itin] found some battery issues now it starts at 30 or so but i have to cycle threw g/p system 3-4 times then crank it.--new g/p relay ,g/p`s,fuelheater-getting juice to g/ps,11.24v.-relay clicks and seems to funtion properly-all fuses good.harness maybe 2yrs ole[$1,000]
my 96pws used to not start under 50 deg. [had to plug itin] found some battery issues now it starts at 30 or so but i have to cycle threw g/p system 3-4 times then crank it.--new g/p relay ,g/p`s,fuelheater-getting juice to g/ps,11.24v.-relay clicks and seems to funtion properly-all fuses good.harness maybe 2yrs ole[$1,000]
By "cycle", do you mean you're turning the key off and back on when the WTS light goes off? Complete waste of time. The WTS light is completely unrelated to the glow plug run time. The glow plugs run for up to two minutes on a cold engine on a cold day. The WTS light is a bit "optimistic at, say, 30F or below, but you should just leave the key in RUN for another 5-10 seconds after the WTS light goes off, then try it.
The 11.50 -> 11.24 drop is 0.26V, which is within the limit (0.3V) of what's considered a "good" relay. Next thing to measure is the glow plugs themselves. Check resistance at the valve cover connectors. I've heard lots of ranges, but between 0.5 and 2.0 ohms should mean that the plugs are good.
Once it starts, are you getting any/much white smoke?
Like madpogue said, the glow plugs stay on a lot longer than the WTS light. I turn the key on and wait up to a minute sometimes. If you want to see how long they actually stay on, watch your voltage gauge in the dash. When you turn the key on, the needle will be down around the "N" in NORMAL. Don't try to start the truck, just watch the gauge. When you see it jump up to about the "R", the glow plugs just went off. Time it and see how long they stay on, and you can base your wait to start time on that.
Am I the only one that caught that he has voltage to both little wires?
Am i missing something? Only one should have voltage. The other is a commanded ground by the PCM
will check that now,also when truck does start hot or cold ,alt gauge reads really low for 2 or so min., then boom rises up to normal. cleaned dr.side neg. on block ,pretty nasty,- do passside today,hard to get to-THANX!
when truck does start hot or cold ,alt gauge reads really low for 2 or so min
Perfectly normal on a cold truck; that's the glow plugs timing out (see owner's manual). That period should be shorter, 30 seconds or so, on a warmed-up truck. It's based on EOT - engine oil temp - reported to the PCM. If you can get access to a scanner / gauge that reads live data, check the EOT value when the truck is warmed up; that sensor may not be accurately reading the oil temp.
did have engine code meter on it a yr ago nothing showed up, will do it again-no trouble lights on dash are on- what should oil temp. be after warmed up?
just came in-43degs out-wts light was on 31 secs.-alt gauge was below the N in normal, just a hair-1min,33secs. alt gauge went up to the right side of the N-did it 2xs did not start, in the past if i do it 3-4xs it`ll probely start-it chugged a little but didnt start