g/p relay
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Senior User
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thank you will check that in morning. i didnt need to damage anything else. is there any other sensors that could becausing my prob? maybe pcm injectors? thanx again
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thanx for being patient and helping 45 degs outside when testing EOT 1)ohm meter set at 200=2.5 ------2)ohm meter set at 2000=005 no decimal point-------3)ohm meter set at 20k=.000--------4)ohm meter set at 20k and higher all read 000-----all test done threw aligator clip type jumper wires
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Medford Oregon
thanx for being patient and helping 45 degs outside when testing EOT 1)ohm meter set at 200=2.5 ------2)ohm meter set at 2000=005 no decimal point-------3)ohm meter set at 20k=.000--------4)ohm meter set at 20k and higher all read 000-----all test done threw aligator clip type jumper wires
On Edit: Can someone verify if the EOT sensor is on top or backside of HPOP, can't remember .. getting old.
FOREIGN GURU
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,655
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From: Celaya, Gto. MX
Those numbers don't make any sense. Are you sure you are measuring the EOT sensor and not something else, like a solenoid? Can you describe where the sensor is that you are measuring? The EOT sensor should be on the back side of the HPOP Reservoir, the rectangle shaped thing in front of the fuel filter.
On Edit: Can someone verify if the EOT sensor is on top or backside of HPOP, can't remember .. getting old.
On Edit: Can someone verify if the EOT sensor is on top or backside of HPOP, can't remember .. getting old.
FOREIGN GURU
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,655
Likes: 7
From: Celaya, Gto. MX
Thank you. and you are welcome. No not yet 
. You are my electronic master 
. You are my electronic master
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
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Those numbers don't make any sense. Are you sure you are measuring the EOT sensor and not something else, like a solenoid? Can you describe where the sensor is that you are measuring? The EOT sensor should be on the back side of the HPOP Reservoir, the rectangle shaped thing in front of the fuel filter.
On Edit: Can someone verify if the EOT sensor is on top or backside of HPOP, can't remember .. getting old.
On Edit: Can someone verify if the EOT sensor is on top or backside of HPOP, can't remember .. getting old.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
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From: Medford Oregon
OK, here is the deal, yes .. if you take it out you will loose some oil as it will drain down to that level. It looks like on the values you gave maybe the jumpers inside were shorted together as the measurements were 2.5 ohms and 5 ohms. If that is the actual value the sensor is reporting then the PCM would throw a CEL, seeing a short.
Have you tried to start the truck (cold) with the EOT sensor unplugged? Still quite puzzled why when on cold start the WTS light is on for 30 + seconds. Documentation indicates 11 seconds max, even in 0* temps.
Have you tried to start the truck (cold) with the EOT sensor unplugged? Still quite puzzled why when on cold start the WTS light is on for 30 + seconds. Documentation indicates 11 seconds max, even in 0* temps.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
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OK, here is the deal, yes .. if you take it out you will loose some oil as it will drain down to that level. It looks like on the values you gave maybe the jumpers inside were shorted together as the measurements were 2.5 ohms and 5 ohms. If that is the actual value the sensor is reporting then the PCM would throw a CEL, seeing a short.
Have you tried to start the truck (cold) with the EOT sensor unplugged? Still quite puzzled why when on cold start the WTS light is on for 30 + seconds. Documentation indicates 11 seconds max, even in 0* temps.
Have you tried to start the truck (cold) with the EOT sensor unplugged? Still quite puzzled why when on cold start the WTS light is on for 30 + seconds. Documentation indicates 11 seconds max, even in 0* temps.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Medford Oregon
thanx, possible bad reading. i have way more stuff in the way than what picture showed. had to unplug another sencor in the way of eot just to get jumpers in there-really tight. pluged eot and other one back in [58degs-wts light was on 9 secs. and started like a new truck.] in the mornin, if i dont plug it in it wont start and wts light be on 30 or so secs., --across relay 2nd big post stays hot over a minute, minute and half
If you have access to a scanner you could read the actual temp the PCM is seeing for EOT before starting. Without one however you are down to the ohm meter method. Yes, It could be something else but without a scanner it's best to do the old school method, eliminate 1 thing at a time, the best you can, with what you have available and not troubleshoot by just replacing parts. That gets spend-y quick.
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thanx again, i tested with sewing needles in two spots
1]ohm meter set at 200=.3
2]ohm meter set at2000= 003 no decimal appeared
3]ohm meter set at 20k and higher all read = .000
thanx for your help- was nice not to think about it yesterday!
1]ohm meter set at 200=.3
2]ohm meter set at2000= 003 no decimal appeared
3]ohm meter set at 20k and higher all read = .000
thanx for your help- was nice not to think about it yesterday!
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
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From: Medford Oregon
Assuming your ohm meter is working and the fact you measured the EOT sensor two different ways, got about the same readings, I would say the EOT sensor is bad. Certainly would account for long WTS light.
Anyway you can test the ohm meter? Maybe measure a solenoid or relay to make sure?
If you go and purchase one (EOT sensor) take your ohm meter with you and take a measurement on the new one before purchasing, that should tell the story.
Anyway you can test the ohm meter? Maybe measure a solenoid or relay to make sure?
If you go and purchase one (EOT sensor) take your ohm meter with you and take a measurement on the new one before purchasing, that should tell the story.
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