4 part axle question
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
4 part axle question
1. Why can't you re-use a pinion nut?
2. Why is it that the bearing caps need to be installed in the same way they were originally installed?
3. Can I install the pinion without the crush sleeve (8.8) and install the old pinion nut, get the preload, and check the tooth pattern so that I'm not ruining the crush sleeve (if it doesn't come out perfect the 1st time) and needing to use more than one?
4. Is it okay to use my 6hp pressure washer to clean out the housing and axle tubes? Probably should keep it at low RPM right?
2. Why is it that the bearing caps need to be installed in the same way they were originally installed?
3. Can I install the pinion without the crush sleeve (8.8) and install the old pinion nut, get the preload, and check the tooth pattern so that I'm not ruining the crush sleeve (if it doesn't come out perfect the 1st time) and needing to use more than one?
4. Is it okay to use my 6hp pressure washer to clean out the housing and axle tubes? Probably should keep it at low RPM right?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
4 part axle question
1. It's crimped, and after the first use, it won't lock again.
2. Because they're installed before the bearing surfaces are machined out of them, so any change in them will cause the bearings to be warped. Basically, they're unique to their location in their specific axle housing. You can't swap or replace them.
3. No. You won't get the preload without the crush sleeve, and the depth will change slightly. Most new gear sets have the depth scribed into them, and you can just set the pinion depth immediately and not have to worry about it again. I tried to get the guy who built mine to do it the way you're describing, and he said no for those reasons. It's working great after a couple thousand miles, so I think he's right.
4. Yes. Run it full blast, if you like. I sandblasted mine. You can see it in my sig link.
2. Because they're installed before the bearing surfaces are machined out of them, so any change in them will cause the bearings to be warped. Basically, they're unique to their location in their specific axle housing. You can't swap or replace them.
3. No. You won't get the preload without the crush sleeve, and the depth will change slightly. Most new gear sets have the depth scribed into them, and you can just set the pinion depth immediately and not have to worry about it again. I tried to get the guy who built mine to do it the way you're describing, and he said no for those reasons. It's working great after a couple thousand miles, so I think he's right.
4. Yes. Run it full blast, if you like. I sandblasted mine. You can see it in my sig link.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
4 part axle question
By the time you got enough torque on the pinion nut to keep the yoke on, the preload would be astronomical. The crush collar keeps the load OFF the bearings until the nut is tight.
If the pinion is shimmed to the proper depth to begin with (like it should be), it'll be fine.
If the pinion is shimmed to the proper depth to begin with (like it should be), it'll be fine.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
4 part axle question
Well I am just changing gears in my axle so I will know what shims were there before. I have 2 crush sleeves so what I plan to do is set it up with the same shims I had before, and check the tooth pattern. If it doesn't come out right then I have 1 crush sleeve left. Sound like a plan?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,698
Likes: 4
From: Neenah, Wisconsin
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
4 part axle question
It's a plan 
, but I think you're gonna waste the first sleeve and not have any useful info on getting the second one right. 
The shims that are there now make the gears you're taking OUT fit THAT axle housing & diff carrier with those bearings. Change any one of those parts, and you probably need different shims.
Diff gears are MUCH more precise than piston rings or even valve lifters.
, but I think you're gonna waste the first sleeve and not have any useful info on getting the second one right. The shims that are there now make the gears you're taking OUT fit THAT axle housing & diff carrier with those bearings. Change any one of those parts, and you probably need different shims.Diff gears are MUCH more precise than piston rings or even valve lifters.
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Thread Starter
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 14,947
Likes: 6
From: Topsfield, MA
4 part axle question
I have a video on how to rebuild it from someone with 30 years of experience. Between FTE, my ford dealership manual, and the video, I should be able to do it.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,187
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From: CT
4 part axle question
I helped a friend rebuild his c***y 10 bolt, we used the old shims as a starting point and they came out to be correct so sometimes you get lucky. What we did was we set the gears up and tried to figure in how far the sleeve would crush when torqued and figured that into the shims needed for the pinion, amazingly it came out on the money, but that pure luck. One piece of advice NEVER say "Thats good enough"
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,698
Likes: 4
From: Neenah, Wisconsin
4 part axle question
ya know i've only ever once had to change a shim pack. I've probably done close to twenty five different axles in ford trucks and the shim pack is almost always right. Maybe i've just been really really lucky. But the shim pack is as you said dependendt on that housing. The carrier and bearings theoretically should always be on center so that rarely changes...if it were to change in relation to the pinion you'd have a situation where the ring gear wasn't running around its center line. The pinion bearing surface is what the shim pack is accounting for. Anyhow...good luck justin.