Technical Specs (pulley bearings)
The arm is longer but articulated more or had more range of motion so the extra length was compensated by this increased motion.
So to get the idler tensioner I removed a idler pulley.
The bearing was so tight I could barely move it by hand. The idler bearing between the alternator and AC compressor was in a similar condition. Amazingly the other truck with 400,000 plus miles bearings are in much better shape but must state I bought it used.
So popped off the end seal of the bearing to see inside.
The grease/loose material had formed into a ball between the bearings.
So removed it and repacked the bearing with Mobile 1 synthetic grease put the cover back on and reinstalled the idler pulley.
As I inspected it there was some pitting corrosion on yhe groove the bearing rode in. Just a matter of time the bearing cracks , a ball cracks or pops out.
Does anyone know the bearing "universal" specs so I cAn order them from a bearing shop? I think Ford sells 1 bearing for about $9.00. I just did a tractor bought 10 bearings and paid $2 each.
Thanks for your help.
Upgrade and buy the newer AC pully, it will be a twin bearing setup vs the stock single bearing setup.
Do you know a part number for the new AC pulley? Do I need any special tool to pull the AC pulley?
Just a c-clip.
There will be a small 6 or 8mm nut for the clutch. Pull that and watch for the washer/spacer in there.
Behind that is the C-clip.
You can pick them up at the parts store, its nothing special. They kinda pricey though for the whole assembly.
Just a c-clip.
There will be a small 6 or 8mm nut for the clutch. Pull that and watch for the washer/spacer in there.
Behind that is the C-clip.
You can pick them up at the parts store, its nothing special. They kinda pricey though for the whole assembly.
I try to buy most parts online since they are typically less ... even with shipping.
I bought the tensioner online for $39 shipped. Here at the chain stores it was $59 to $99 plus 9.75% tax





