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hey guys i really need your wisdom here! ive got a friend whos a die hard chevy nut and thinks that every ford needs to be pushed off of a cliff, he just bought a new 2013 chevy shortbed with the 4.8 and an automatic with 3.42 gears out back now i must say that thing is super peppy especially with the tune hes got on it. every day he intentionally brags to me about some ford he beat in a race whether it be a ford pickup or a mustang and how fords are slow etc... (we all have an obnoxious friend like this im sure) so heres where my question comes in... i have a 78 f100 2wd with a worn out 300 6cyl so im going to build up a nice 302 to take its place and i want more than ANYTHING to build an engine capable of waxing my friends 4.8's a$$!! i know this sounds juvenile but its something that would put a smile on my face and a frown on his as my old 35 year old slow ford blows the doors off of his shiney new chebby ..... ive been looking for a late 90's 5.0 out of an explorer and id like some opinions from you guys on how to achieve this goal,i also need to know if i need to stay with a c4 automatic or go with an aod. any light you guys could shed on this would be greatly appreciated
As for the trans, a beefed C4 would work, but you'll need to run some low ratio gears to make that thing move, so freeway work will be an issue. If you go AOD, you are looking at a lot more money to get one beefed to handle the power you are talking. Start with an '88-'93 box from behind a V8, and then add money.
You will need traction bars and sticky tires as well.
do you think it would be more easily accomplished by using an f4te 351 and building it similar? i still need to be able to drive this thing to work every day and get some what decent fuel economy
The 351 will make more power than the 302 as it's bigger. If you want to make over 300 horse, you are looking at several modifications.
Going fast costs money. IMO it would be cheaper to forget about outrunning the Chevy and rebuild the 300 if you want a reliable DD and want to get some MPGs out of it. Put an OD trans on it if you want.
Google "351w build..." and you'll find plenty of 400-500+ builds.
hey guys i really need your wisdom here! ive got a friend whos a die hard chevy nut and thinks that every ford needs to be pushed off of a cliff, he just bought a new 2013 chevy shortbed with the 4.8 and an automatic with 3.42 gears out back now i must say that thing is super peppy especially with the tune hes got on it. every day he intentionally brags to me about some ford he beat in a race whether it be a ford pickup or a mustang and how fords are slow etc... (we all have an obnoxious friend like this im sure) so heres where my question comes in... i have a 78 f100 2wd with a worn out 300 6cyl so im going to build up a nice 302 to take its place and i want more than ANYTHING to build an engine capable of waxing my friends 4.8's a$$!! i know this sounds juvenile but its something that would put a smile on my face and a frown on his as my old 35 year old slow ford blows the doors off of his shiney new chebby ..... ive been looking for a late 90's 5.0 out of an explorer and id like some opinions from you guys on how to achieve this goal,i also need to know if i need to stay with a c4 automatic or go with an aod. any light you guys could shed on this would be greatly appreciated
Two things here: one is he bought an Government Motors vehicle ? Two. the motor in his truck is based on a Ford V8.
Two things here: one is he bought an Government Motors vehicle ? Two. the motor in his truck is based on a Ford V8.
I never knew that the GM engines were based on a Ford engine,I guess that's the only smart thing GM ever done.....you're right I forget we can't build fast engines for $1500 anymore and as much fun as it would be mopping the floors withthat Obama made Pos I'd rather put a paint job
On my little truck...Thankyou fellas
This is very impressive what CC did, and speaks well of the AFR 165. But I'm curious as to what I can expect if I just bolted a set of these heads onto my 87 5.0, but keep the stock EFI intake manifold. Summit lists these heads for about $1500, so it may still fit in the realm of relatively cheap but substantial improvements.
If I went with an Edelbrok "stock" replacement (about $600 at Summit), how much of an improvement would that be over stock, and with the AFR heads?
I need to do bi-annual smog checks, so I have to stick with street legal parts, and these two fit that requirement.
@ Bulldog - You might take the top end (cam & heads) off a 98 - 01 exploder 5.0 for starters and bolt it to a 351w. This and headers/exhaust will liven your truck up a bit. Be real smooth too. And cheap. This will get you a few steps up from where you currently sit. Make it a stroker and you get even more.
Not quite where you want to be but a good start. Everything but the crank/rods/pistons would be cheap at the j/y. By not doing anything to fancy on the outside you can keep it a sleeper.
I would think the newer truck would have some weight advantages over a dent which makes this that much more of a challenge unless he wants to hook them up.
Not much.. because the stock cam in your truck motor is it's biggest bottleneck, followed by the exhaust and then the heads.
Zero.. because the stock truck intake flows almost as much(more if ported) and is nowhere close to being a bottleneck on this motor.
Actually, the engine I'll be working with is from a 1987 Mustang GT, so it's the 5.0 HO, with the same bottom end (cam) that the CC article used. They're using a pretty healthy carbureted intake setup, which is why I wonder how well the stock HO EFI intake would work with those heads. I'm aware that the truck intakes (as just about any aftermarket) are bigger, which is why I wonder if the Edelbrok intake will bring the performance closer to that of the CC setup. If not Edelbrok, then some other aftermarket intake with a CARB EO number.
I also have 1.5" shorty headers, while not as restrictive as stock, they're probably not as free flowing as the stepped tri-Y they're using. Behind those are the stock H pipe that appear to be 2.5" with catalytic converters, and 2.5" cat-back to turbo mufflers that dump ahead of the axle, and no tail pipes. So I'm curious as to how much this will further reduce output from that of the CC setup, since that was optimized for maximum dyno numbers.
IGNORE WHAT THOSE MAGAZINES SAY.. theyre in it for the advertising to make money..
a good set of heads.. GT40P or better (preferably aftermarket)
a correctly matched cam
ported GT40/truck intake or better.. not a trash HO stock mustang intake. if staying EFI
if Carb someone can give better recommendation on intake but a 600-650 Holley 4 bbl
fresh bottom end with a nice set of flat top pistons
roller valve train
a really nice dual 2.5" exhaust
Well, NFL freak answered one of my questions. Stock HO intakes are "trash". So either GT40 or truck intake would work better. Would other street legal aftermarket intakes be better than those?
Well, NFL freak answered one of my questions. Stock HO intakes are "trash". So either GT40 or truck intake would work better. Would other street legal aftermarket intakes be better than those?
any Trick Flow intake and theres more i cant think of right now..
if you wanna go fast cheap once, put a bottle on it
fords LOVE the bottle.. especially the more worn the engine is.. i've seen some foxes with beat up 5.0's stock run mid 8's 1/8 mile getting sprayed like 150 shot of nitrous and live for about 30 passes..