Fuel line removal tool?
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Junior User
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Fuel line removal tool?
I am going to take my HFCM off and clean it due to the junk that is in it. What kind of fuel line removal tool do I need to take the lines off? I am also considering draining the tank due to the PS 911 I put in the tank. What is the best way to do that?
Any help would be great at this point.
Thanks,
Adam
Any help would be great at this point.
Thanks,
Adam
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Junior User
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I also think that I found my reason for the constant WIF light and shutdowns. I have pics of some fuel that has rust and algae in it and the fuel is a yellow/green color. Also I have a pic of a drain plug that is corodid. I assume that this is why there is a replacement option for these plugs that are copper?
I need some help on posting these for some opinions.
Thanks,
Adam
I need some help on posting these for some opinions.
Thanks,
Adam
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
The plug is brass. I agree that with that much crap in the tank it's time to be
cleaned. On you first few fills after you may want to put and algaecide in
with the fresh fuel to kill any spores left behind.
From >> RV Tech Library - Diesel Fuel Additives
Algae:
There is a greater problem when dealing with diesel fuel storage and it's something that gasoline engines don't have to deal with. Because diesel fuel is a heavier substance than gasoline and has no real vapors it is subject to algae. Small amounts of water will accumulate in diesel fuel. Most of this water comes from condensation in the tank area directly above the fuel level. That's why it's important to keep the fuel tank (on any vehicle) as full as possible during storage in order to minimize condensation. This condensation slides down into the fuel and remains suspended in it. Once it's there it acts as a breeding ground for microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi, and algae. These organisms feed off the hydrocarbons in your fuel (pretty tasty, huh) and create a waste product that is both corrosive and harmful. If there is sufficient quantity of this stuff in your tank you will be in for a surprise come spring. This gunk will begin to plug up your fuel filter and your engine will lose power and die. You may have to go through a whole lot of expensive fuel filters in order to filter all of the icky stuff out unless you have your fuel pumped and filtered externally. Either way, it's time consuming and expensive so you don't want to go there.
The best way to prevent this from happening is to add an algaecide to your fuel prior to storing your RV. Pri-Products makes Pri-Ocide, which does a great job but you'll find algaecides from other manufacturers at most major marine dealers. They're generally made by the same people who make fuel additives but not all truck stops stock an algaecide. An algaecide will float on the surface of your fuel and will also mix with any water found elsewhere in the fuel. It will kill any existing growth as well as provide a protective barrier against any future growth. The additive burns right up with your diesel fuel when you run your engine so if you run your engine regularly to exercise it in winter you may want to consider adding a bit more algaecide every now and then, depending upon how much fuel you burn and how small your tank is. Algae is also climate sensitive so storing your RV in Nome, Alaska over the winter is going to be better for the fuel than storing it in the Panama Canal over winter. Heat and humidity will foster growth of algae so this means more for you southern RVers than us snowbirds up in Wisconsin. Personally, I do add fuel additive and algaecide in November to my 150 gallon tank. I exercise the RV once a month and sometimes even get to drive it for a couple of hours rather than 15 minutes, depending upon the road conditions. I don't add any more algaecide under these conditions.
Sean 
cleaned. On you first few fills after you may want to put and algaecide in
with the fresh fuel to kill any spores left behind.
From >> RV Tech Library - Diesel Fuel Additives
Algae:
There is a greater problem when dealing with diesel fuel storage and it's something that gasoline engines don't have to deal with. Because diesel fuel is a heavier substance than gasoline and has no real vapors it is subject to algae. Small amounts of water will accumulate in diesel fuel. Most of this water comes from condensation in the tank area directly above the fuel level. That's why it's important to keep the fuel tank (on any vehicle) as full as possible during storage in order to minimize condensation. This condensation slides down into the fuel and remains suspended in it. Once it's there it acts as a breeding ground for microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi, and algae. These organisms feed off the hydrocarbons in your fuel (pretty tasty, huh) and create a waste product that is both corrosive and harmful. If there is sufficient quantity of this stuff in your tank you will be in for a surprise come spring. This gunk will begin to plug up your fuel filter and your engine will lose power and die. You may have to go through a whole lot of expensive fuel filters in order to filter all of the icky stuff out unless you have your fuel pumped and filtered externally. Either way, it's time consuming and expensive so you don't want to go there.
The best way to prevent this from happening is to add an algaecide to your fuel prior to storing your RV. Pri-Products makes Pri-Ocide, which does a great job but you'll find algaecides from other manufacturers at most major marine dealers. They're generally made by the same people who make fuel additives but not all truck stops stock an algaecide. An algaecide will float on the surface of your fuel and will also mix with any water found elsewhere in the fuel. It will kill any existing growth as well as provide a protective barrier against any future growth. The additive burns right up with your diesel fuel when you run your engine so if you run your engine regularly to exercise it in winter you may want to consider adding a bit more algaecide every now and then, depending upon how much fuel you burn and how small your tank is. Algae is also climate sensitive so storing your RV in Nome, Alaska over the winter is going to be better for the fuel than storing it in the Panama Canal over winter. Heat and humidity will foster growth of algae so this means more for you southern RVers than us snowbirds up in Wisconsin. Personally, I do add fuel additive and algaecide in November to my 150 gallon tank. I exercise the RV once a month and sometimes even get to drive it for a couple of hours rather than 15 minutes, depending upon the road conditions. I don't add any more algaecide under these conditions.
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Junior User
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Sorry, I meant brass, I knew that 
. So after draining the tank I will try perhaps try the algaecide. I live in Ohio though right now where it has been cold all winter...it just doesn't make since to me on how this would grow so easily. I went and started the truck earlier and it would not run in high idle and then it wouldn't restart because my batteries were low from sitting for two weeks in our wonderfully cold weather. I am ordering the plug today and I also bought 5w-40 synthetic and an oil filter...hopefully I can do some work on thursday or friday when it is nice out.
If anyone has anymore info I would greatly appreciate it.
What tool do I need to seperate the fuel lines from the HFCM?
Thanks,
Adam
. So after draining the tank I will try perhaps try the algaecide. I live in Ohio though right now where it has been cold all winter...it just doesn't make since to me on how this would grow so easily. I went and started the truck earlier and it would not run in high idle and then it wouldn't restart because my batteries were low from sitting for two weeks in our wonderfully cold weather. I am ordering the plug today and I also bought 5w-40 synthetic and an oil filter...hopefully I can do some work on thursday or friday when it is nice out.If anyone has anymore info I would greatly appreciate it.
What tool do I need to seperate the fuel lines from the HFCM?
Thanks,
Adam
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 27,307
Likes: 549
From: Spanaway
It depends on the type of connection you have. Some only need your
hand to push on the tab and remove others need the plastic ones and
others need the metal scissors type
8-Piece Fuel & Transmission Line Disconnect Tool Set
If you have a Harbor Freight near by that is the cheapest place and they have a few kits
like in the link above.
Sean
hand to push on the tab and remove others need the plastic ones and
others need the metal scissors type
8-Piece Fuel & Transmission Line Disconnect Tool Set
If you have a Harbor Freight near by that is the cheapest place and they have a few kits
like in the link above.
Sean
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Just a heads up on the oil filter in case you don't know, be sure to get the Motorcraft/Racor filter and re-use the correct cap. The Fram may also be a repackaged Racor also, if you have one of those check in the box for any added plastic spacers, it if has them don't use it.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 79
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The tool cost $4 from the auto parts store.
help with my hcfm removal - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
help with my hcfm removal - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
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I bought the Motorcraft filter that is in your picture. I am going to check into the tools and work on the truck on Friday.
Thanks for all of the help and there will definitely be more questions to come.
Adam
Thanks for all of the help and there will definitely be more questions to come.
Adam
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From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
Be sure to use the correct shorter cap also. If you use the taller one the filter will float in the housing and not close the bypass valve in the bottom.
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