No brakes
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
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No brakes
I have another issue. Apparently I have no rear brakes. Took it into the shop for inspection and removed the drums. Everything looks ok, has new shoes and wheel cylinders. Adjusted the star wheels the whole way out and still no brakes. Not dragging. No parking brake either. Pedal is hard when engine is off but when running goes to the floor. It was a very long drive home. Looked for the RABS block but couldnt find it. It's on the drivers frame rail under the cab right? It is a 1990 F350 4x4 5 speed 7.3 dually chassis cab.
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: western SD
If the adjusters are maxed out, the rear drums are probably worn out. When you look at a new drum, on the outer edge there will be a 45 degree bevel on the edge that runs next to the pads. When the drum is worn down to where the bevel is no longer seen, or the drum needs to be turnd down ferther than that bevel the drum needs to be replaced.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
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Ya im going with you might have went the wrong way with the adjuster. Those things go a ways.. even if you had totally shot shoes and drums they would still do something back there. I just did the rears on the 97 because the boss like to tow trailers with the e-brake on. Anyway, when i got it, no pedal, ****ty brakes, no e-brake. All i did was adjust and everything is golden, for now anyway.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
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Thanks guys, its my drill weekend so I won't be able to do a thing til next week, def got a few things to check. The wheels were def turned the right way, after maxing it both ways I pulled the drums out of frustration to verify the correct rotation. Oh well lol, I'm determined to get this thing useable
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Joined: Feb 2011
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Brake Issue
Sounds like you have more than one issue if the service peddle goes to floor and park brake is in op.
Start with adjusting the rear brake shoes.
Adjust shoes (if shoes and drum is good) until wheel will not spin then back off 4 +clicks so the wheel will turn with a little drag. This will help when bleeding the brakes...
Start by bleeding brakes correctly. Start with the wheel furthest from the MC (passenger rear) and work your way to the drivers front (last).
If peddle is still spongy most likely the MC. Make sure stream is strong on all wheels. If weak stream in rear check the combo or proportioning valve.
Start with adjusting the rear brake shoes.
Adjust shoes (if shoes and drum is good) until wheel will not spin then back off 4 +clicks so the wheel will turn with a little drag. This will help when bleeding the brakes...
Start by bleeding brakes correctly. Start with the wheel furthest from the MC (passenger rear) and work your way to the drivers front (last).
If peddle is still spongy most likely the MC. Make sure stream is strong on all wheels. If weak stream in rear check the combo or proportioning valve.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2013
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Update:
Pull the LR drum, adjuster falls out. Pull the RR drum, no dragging at all. All the brake hardware looks like garbage (will be replacing). Extended the adjusters till I couldnt get the drum on (down is tight up is loose) then slowly backed the off until the drum was on then tightened it back up.
Wouldn't you know I got brakes now lol. The adjusters being so junky just made it feel like they were maxed out but I had a long way to go. Now have parking brake and service brake again.
Thanks all
Pull the LR drum, adjuster falls out. Pull the RR drum, no dragging at all. All the brake hardware looks like garbage (will be replacing). Extended the adjusters till I couldnt get the drum on (down is tight up is loose) then slowly backed the off until the drum was on then tightened it back up.
Wouldn't you know I got brakes now lol. The adjusters being so junky just made it feel like they were maxed out but I had a long way to go. Now have parking brake and service brake again.
Thanks all
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