Hey guys, I am getting ready to change the brake pads on my 2006 F250. it has 70,000 miles on the original pads and rotors. I am starting experience a squeak when I apply the pedal. I am assuming that the rotor and pads are starting to get glazed over. I am installing Motorcraft pads. My question is, should I get my rotors resurfaced or buy new ones? Any advice would be great. Thank you!

 

well that depends on the condition, did you check run out , is there a lip on them?
can you deglaze them with a little bit of sand paper and a few min of work?
ive got 104k on mine still going.

 

I have not removed and inspected them yet.

 

The major issue is going to be if you have any pulsation when braking, which would be due to nonparallel surfaces or hard spots in them. The secondary issue would be smoothness of the rubbing surfaces and amount of rust buildup in the cooling vanes.

The detriment of not providing a new, smooth (no grooves), but rougher (machined vs polished) is that it will take longer for the friction material to burnish into the surface since there will not be a rougher rotor surface to smooth down the friction surface, and the time it takes for the pads to wear into the grooves or micro grooves.

However, if I don't have any pulsation and the vane rust is not bad, I reuse the rotor as is. Instead of taking a week of driving to fully bed in they will take two weeks. For me, I can live with that. And if my rotors are too grooved, I don't bother turning them and just buy new.

If you decide that you do want to turn the rotors, please don't have that done on a bench lathe. They need to be turned with an on-car lathe so the runout is minimized and matched to the rotors. Excessive runout will make even the best rotor develop pulsation over time as the high runout points will wear thin, the result being non-parallel surfaces.

 

If thats all thats Wrong is Pads Wornout Id slap another set of pads on and Go

Thats all I did they seem like pretty heavy duty rotors

Cheezit and Jack pretty well have you covered if other stuff is wrong

 

I'd pay close attention to the slide pins and boots, and the pistons on the calipers, the pins especially seem to have problems on SDs. I'm all for pad-only brake work, but only with a good inspection of the hardware.

 

I will agree that the Motorcraft pads and rotors seem to be pretty damn good. For the kind of abuse they get put through they seem to hold up awesome. Even with that being said I'm wondering if there's any more cost effective setups out there.

 

I just replaced my original front pads with 77k. I kept the original rotors, they looked and felt fine.

 

I just replaced the brake pads and Rotors on my 2003 F250. I bought it used and I plan on using it to haul a 5th wheel. That's why I replaced the breaks and rotors. I just cant figure out why the light will come on. I also have noticed that the front wheels are really hot after driving a mile down the road. Any Suggestions on what I may need to do.

 

Calipers are probably sticking and dragging. Did you flush the brake fluid? Should be done every two years to help prevent moisture and sludge build up in the system. The slide pins should also be cleaned and lubed. I use a ceramic based lube made just for this purpose. Sold at Napa.

 

Ok I flushed the break fluid. Lubed the slid pins. How would I know if the calipers are sticking or dragging?

 

If the wheel heats up, the caliper is dragging and needs to be replaced. You can try lifting the wheel with a jack and spinning it, you can try pushing the pads back with a tool, but it's usually pretty obvious when the brakes get too hot to touch. One thing - often the caliper pistons only stick when they are hot, when they cool down they retract just fine but when they get a little hot they stick. For all the talk about flushing this and lubricating that, it's never worked for me. If I have an brake that's dragging and heating the wheel now I just order two new calipers and replace both on that axle - I never do just one side. If I am lucky the disc hasn't been damaged.

Brian

 

I have bought new seal kits on other vehicles for a fraction of the cost and rebuilt the cailpers. No biggy but a compressor comes in handy to pop the puck.

 

This same thing just happened to me. It would stick and then after I shut the truck off for a while it would be fine the next time I drove it. Then a few days later it would happen all over again. I only replaced the caliper that was sticking, why did you replace both?