Speaking in general, DON'T ever try to drive home anything unless you have had time to go through the systems. I purchased a F250 back in 2005. The PO swore up and down it was roadworthy. A seller will usually be motivated by the thought of a sale. Whether a seller is honest, forgetful or just plain shady doesn't matter when you are driving down a road and a tie rod, brake shoe, etc. comes loose. In my case the truck looked great but the frame broke in two while loading it on the trailer for it's ride home. Too many years have gone by with these old trucks and too many fixes have been applied by unknown people. Trailer it home, figure it out and drive it safely. My uncle bought a 60's Ford, wanted to save $180 on the tow bill and the trucks wiring burned up on the way home. The truck burned to the ground. He was out the $2500 for the purchase. I would rather pay $180 (or the cost of the trailer/tow). Good luck!

 

I never intended to drive the thing home. I was just wanting to get her started so I could load it on the trailer under it's own power. The previous owner told me he couldn't believe how many people called wanting to buy the truck to use as a roofing rig. Even when he told them the tires were really weathered and that it shouldn't be driven as is they still wanted to buy it and work it. Kind of scary what some people would put on the road without thinking of the danger to others let alone themselves. Bryan I hear you about keeping close to home. Like I said I haven't even been around one of these trucks running so I'd have no problem driving your way sometime just to take a look at your truck and pick your brain.

 

If you need chrome / junk yard parts, I don't have much of anything but I know of a fairly local yard - and I already have a plan to go up myself (I call dibs on the Twin HiWay horns). Martin's Supply in Windsor is an old school junkyard, let me know if you need anything or want to tag along. Unfortunately there are no (48-50) F1's, a number of F2 & F3's, and I don't remember seeing anything bigger off hand.

 

If he's going to push it on with his tractor put a chain or strap to the tractor and he can use his brakes so it doesn't run off on you, just a suggestion, Garry

 

I'm up for that. Let me know when you are running up there. I'd love to tag along. I'm eventually going to need quite a bit but I have to be tactful with the wife. You should have seen her face when I told her I wanted the old truck. The biggest thing on the list is going to be wheels and tires. I'm really thinking I want 20" lock rings to keep the old profiles the same. The truck isn't going to be a high miles vehicle when it's complete.

 

I bet you've left for the day, but just in case you haven't I'm insisting on adding 1 item to the list (whether you start it, or just load it) a CAMERA. We demand pix here in the asylum.

It's 70 degrees, sunny and mild here in Colorado for those of you easterner's. I sooo do not want to be at work right now.

 

Just wanted to give an update and let you guys know I got the truck to it's new location. Of coarse the rental yard gave me the shortest set of ramps they had but even with that the truck got on and off the trailer without any issues. It was a pretty heavy load but it pulled a lot better than I was expecting. I didn't take any pictures because that was the last thing on my mind at the time. I will take some pictures soon and try to get them up here. The truck has definitely worked for a living but I see the potential. I'm going out tomorrow to clean up the interior and try to figure out the wiring so I can get her started. It's been converted to 12 volt but there isn't a positive battery cable anywhere. It also has a small electric fuel pump that's just laying over the block. I'm not sure if it was someones idea of bypassing the tank and trying to get her started or if the original fuel pump isn't working. Are the fuel pumps for the 226 available? The good news is the engine isn't stuck. The wiring is a total mess and is going to take a little time to figure out what goes where and what's missing. I need to buy a service manual badly The truck has an Anthony dump body on it and part of me thinks I might want to fix that up and keep it. It's a different look then the typical wood flatbed. One more question. I see where the coolant hoses go to and from the in cab heater. There is a fitting above that on the firewall that looks like a Y with two 1/2" or so ports. It's not hooked up to anything right now. The other end is behind the glove box and the Temp **** is attached to whatever it is. Can someone explain what it is? Is it a thermostat? I thought these heaters were just on and off.

 

good to see you have it home with no problems . will be watching for the pics. best of luck getting it going.

 

Congrats on getting the truck home. Many of us have learned the hard way, I certainly did when I picked up my donor vehicle for the F1. As far as the heater hoses are concerned, it may be a valve to regulate the amount of hot water from the cooling system. As stated in a earlier post, we want pics, and also we want pics. I would also like to congratulate all the FTE members who showed the true spirit of this site, by caring, helping, and encouraging this newbie and not "beating him up" for his lack of experience. I'll get off my soap box now.

 

In case ZOOT forgot to mention it, we'd like to see some pics....

 

Re: the Y fitting; I wonder if the heater was replaced at some point and that is a relic from the earlier unit? Heaters were still mostly added on back then.

 

Is this the same fitting as yours? Parts book calls it valve (automatic temperature regulator). Mine wasn't hooked up either. Jeff

 

Here is a pic from the parts book. Sorry it's a crappy ipad pic too lazy to scan it Jeff

 

Yes that is the part I'm talking about. In the picture it's 18502. Like yours, it's not hooked up. The heater is a script ford heater so I'll have to look into why it's been disconnected. Right now I'm working on getting it started. I'm trying to bypass everything but what's necessary to start the engine. There are so many raw wires that I don't want to energize anything more than I must. I think I had it set up but actually pulled the starter button out of the truck and couldn't figure out why it didn't work. I didn't realize the switch needs the dash as a ground for the circuit. Now I'm searching here making sure that is right with the 12 volt set up. My coil is super old, the carb on it now looks like a carter from a chevy. The original was in the truck. I have it torn apart and need to clean it and order a rebuild kit. I'm wanting to at least get the starter turning the engine then I'll move on to make sure the spark and fuel are working ok. I'm just wanting to see if and how it runs before I start taking things apart and fixing this thing up. My gas tank is shot. It looks ok from outside but the inside is rusted really bad. There is some decent rust pitting on the floors under the seat but no rust through. The biggest thing with this truck is the body work. It's not as much rust repair as it's dent and ding repair. I know I could probably locate a better cab but the whole idea of the project is learning and doing the work. I do have a 52 in South Dakota that I might borrow some parts from. Potentially doors and brake drums if needed. I will have to take the camera out there and get some pictures. I know I like to see pictures here so I should do the same. Just don't expect a beauty...At least it's not going to sit and rot

 

The 12v solenoid requires a different switch than the 6v. the 6v is 1 wire and the switch closes to ground. in 12v it is 2 wire and completes a closed circuit, so if you upgrade the solenoid you have to rewire the switch and use a 52+ switch. (more details here under "Julie's" posts) you can use the 6v solenoid with 12v, but a few people claim as soon as you get it running it doesn't last long.