Leveling 2001 screw

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Mar 15, 2013 | 07:28 AM

#16

whacker1

Thread Starter

New User

Joined: Aug 2009

Posts: 17

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jyount

So will cranking, which = a tighter spring. Keys = same springs, different geometry. The end results can be the sameish, different way of attaining it. If you are looking for a tad of lift, get the keys. I you want more than say 3" or so pony up and get a lift that drops the whole shebang. Not worth the coin IMHO...

I just want 1.5 to 2, and I fully expect the geometry to change a little, which will make a change to the ride. but I don't think that change will be near as significant as cranking torsion bars.

Mar 15, 2013 | 07:35 AM

#17

MIKE 04 GT

Senior User

Joined: Jul 2008

Posts: 183

Likes: 0

From: south carolina

If all you want is to leavel it out, Just use the factory ones for free, and they will not really alow you to over tighen the T-bars.

Mar 19, 2013 | 08:42 PM

#18

KING-RANCH02

Junior User

Joined: Sep 2010

Posts: 57

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From: wauchula Fl.

image_zps25e328d1.jpg Photo by jrod891 | Photobucket
This is what 1 of my homemade drop brackets look like

Mar 20, 2013 | 10:14 PM

#19

liftnw8z

FTE Chapter Leader

Joined: Mar 2009

Posts: 33,915

Likes: 245

From: Johnstown, PA

Quote:

Originally Posted by MIKE 04 GT

just turn up your factory keys, do not put aftermarket keys on, it will destroy your frount end.

I apologize for stepping in late, but add me to the list of folks who have had zero issues with aftermarket keys. If you take the time to do things properly this comment above isn't true.

I run a Rough Country 2 1/2" lift (for now) with the aftermarket keys. We took the time to be sure to set ride height to factory spec + 2 1/2" at the lower A arm (where ride height is measured by the manual) once we did the lift. I have plenty of A arm travel and clearance, I'm not banging my bump stops. Before I parked the truck for the winter for more upgrades, I had put well over 15,000 miles on it with zero ball joint, tie rod, sway bar, or CV joint issues (there was initial boot and joint replacements after a tear to make sure everything was "on" and good as they had never been done, but no issues since). Alignment is dead to rights on and stays there. And everything is good and tight and ready to roll for this summer, and shouldn't need replaced when I go to 6". And the truck rides fantastic.

The RC kit to do this was $300, and included 4 new shocks, block for the rear, and new keys.