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On the adapter, I actually like the two nuts better. The adapter doesn't really lock in the adjustment. In the past I've had the switch push out because of it.
On the adapter, I actually like the two nuts better. The adapter doesn't really lock in the adjustment. In the past I've had the switch push out because of it.
mikeo0o0o0,
I agree about the two nutz thing and I think I am going to change out that Master cylinder and see if that effects my throw on my brake pedal. Thanks for the Pics and mine looks exactly the same so there has been no mods in its 40 years of life.
You know the smart acre in me almost pulled out the "C" word but you helped me so im really trying to be nice!!!! No Really thanks for your help.
There's 61 of the puppies listed in post 18, closest source to OR is in NorCal. I've been a wise azz longer than you have kiddo, and I ain't gonna change!
I had that problem a few years ago after my 77 sat over the winter and it was a really snowy one. Evidently there is a pivot of some sort between the firewall and the booster, it got gummed up with rust I spose and thats what kept it from returning all the way up. Lubed it up and worked it every chance I got and it was all better in a couple of days..
I had that problem a few years ago after my 77 sat over the winter and it was a really snowy one. Evidently there is a pivot of some sort between the firewall and the booster, it got gummed up with rust I spose and thats what kept it from returning all the way up. Lubed it up and worked it every chance I got and it was all better in a couple of days..
It's a bell crank assembly. There should be a grease fitting on the pivot point so you can grease it.
It's a bell crank assembly. There should be a grease fitting on the pivot point so you can grease it.
I'm in the process of going through my brake pedal, bracket, booster, etc. on my '75 and until reading this thread didn't know there was a grease fitting. Checked it out when I got home from work today and see the hole in mine, but no fitting. Good timing as the assembly is still on my bench and haven't yet mounted to the firewall.
Guess I'll need to find the proper fitting to install, thanks for the info and pictures! Do you happen to know if the grease fitting is threaded? If so hopefully I can just pick one up at the parts store.
Do you happen to know if the grease fitting is threaded?
I just went through mine too. It's still on the bench so I'll check it later and let you know, but off the top of my head I'm going to say it's a press fit fitting. I don't recall seeing a hex on the fitting so there'd be no way to tighten a threaded fitting.
You can get press in fittings at the parts store too. Instead of using the special tool to install them, I use a small socket that will fit over the head of the fitting and sit on the collar. It doesn't take a lot of force to install a pressed in fitting. A few taps with a hammer and it's in.
Guess I'll need to find the proper fitting to install, thanks for the info and pictures! Do you happen to know if the grease fitting is threaded? If so hopefully I can just pick one up at the parts store.
I went out and looked at mine, it looks like it's a press fit. There's no hex on the fitting to tighten with a wrench.
To get the right size fitting all you need is the hole diameter. A real simple gauge is to use the smooth end of a drill bit. A real common size for press in fittings is a 3/16" hole diameter so I'd start there and go up or down as needed.
Here's a picture of the grease fitting and a pic of how my pedal assy turned out.
I went out and looked at mine, it looks like it's a press fit. There's no hex on the fitting to tighten with a wrench.
To get the right size fitting all you need is the hole diameter. A real simple gauge is to use the smooth end of a drill bit. A real common size for press in fittings is a 3/16" hole diameter so I'd start there and go up or down as needed.
Here's a picture of the grease fitting and a pic of how my pedal assy turned out.
Thanks for the info, that helps to know its a press fit instead of threaded. I'll take your advice and use drill bits to determine the diameter.
mike0o0o0o,
Does your truck have a Power Booster on the Brakes? My truck is Manual brakes and Im not seeing that bell crank on my truck. I will take some pictures so maybe it will make more sense. All Im seeing on mine is the brake pedal assembly and directly on the other side of the firewall is the master cylinder. That is why Im assuming (I hate using that word) that the master cylinder is what causes the brake pedal to return to the stop when you take your foot off the brakes.
mike0o0o0o,
Does your truck have a Power Booster on the Brakes? My truck is Manual brakes and Im not seeing that bell crank on my truck. I will take some pictures so maybe it will make more sense. All Im seeing on mine is the brake pedal assembly and directly on the other side of the firewall is the master cylinder. That is why Im assuming (I hate using that word) that the master cylinder is what causes the brake pedal to return to the stop when you take your foot off the brakes.
JRB65
The bell crank assy is power brakes only. With manual brakes the master cylinder bolts to the firewall and the MC pushrod connects directly to the brake pedal.
It's pretty ratty looking but here's the set-up you should have.
Yeah that looks just like mine minus the perportioning valve. But mine has Disc Brakes on the front.
I replaced the Master Cylinder today and that fixed my pedal problem. I could feel a lack of spring tention in the old Master Cylinder. Its working great now and I would like to thank everyone who tried to help or posted pictures.