I read most of the posts about installing a restrictor plate for the egr, put one in and have had great results. However, recently the beast has been hard to start. The problem started after I discovered a few vacuum issues and repaired them. The truck has always been reluctant to start, but it always would as long as I didn't set the choke. It now floods easily and often won't start unless I hold the choke plate open. I have disconnected the battery for long periods in hopes the control module would adjust, but no luck. The engine runs great after it warms up and will start fine as long as it doesn't cool down completely. The choke is functioning as it should.
I'm wondering if anyone else has run into this and how to remedy the starting problem.

 

What year truck? What engine? What transmission? Where (geographically) do you live?

That implies something was done or put together wrong... it was behaving a certain way, you made a change, and now it behaves badly/differently, so un-do the change and put it back how it was.

Could also be that the fix is now allowing other problems to be more noticeable.

But until you give some basic information, there isn't much anybody can do to help you....

 

That's a good point. I keep wondering why it doesn't want to start with a rich mixture. Cold starts don't engage the EGR. I may play with the timing and see what happens.
1985 4.9L f150

 

Leave the timing set like it is. Unless you've already changed it, don't suspect anything else is the problem unless it can be isolated to that specific item.

For now, make sure the EGR is tightened down nice and snug over your block off plate. Make sure you don't tighten it too far, you'll crack the ear off of the EGR where the bolt goes through.

If you know that's good, make sure the carburetor is tight to the intake. To do this, pull the air cleaner off, and rock it from passenger side to driver's side. If loose, tighten up the two 1/2'' nuts that secure it to the intake. If it's still loose, you'll want to pull the carburetor and tighten up the four throttlebody screws that secure the throttlebody to the main body of the carb.

Obviously, double check for vacuum leaks. Make sure the choke is set correctly. You should have a vacuum choke pull-off that opens the choke when it's cranked.

If those don't do it, I'd double check to make sure your block off plate is still good and that it doesn't potentially have a hole in it now.

 

Looks like you're in the Seattle area, yeah, that can be kinda cold in the wintertime.

EGR doesn't operate at any idle, be it engine warm or cold.

I agree with not messing with the timing, or anything else you haven't yet messed with....

 

Thanks Gents - I'm on it.

 

The vacuum leaks were compensating for the truck running rich. Since you fixed them the truck runs more rich.


Check the idle fuel mixture, the feedback solenoid on the carb, O2 sensor etc...

If some of the smog parts have been removed, the computer will go into limp home mode and cause all sorts of issues. EGR is one component that will effect the computer. You can't remove the emissions components and expect the engine to run well.

If the emissions on the truck are in bad shape, and the truck hasn't already been converted, I'd concider doing a DS-II conversion to it. Non-computer controlled carb, distributor ignition module, etc... It would run a lot better and cleaner than a partially disabled computer feedback system (EEC-IV/TFI-IV).