I have a Motorcraft 2100-D-2V on a 351C When cold starting it The truck starts up and idles fine,runs fine, but once the engine has warmed up the idle speed drops almost to the point of stalling, then if you shut it down and try to start it back up you have to hold the accelerator pedal all the way down to the floor and it will start up but like it is then flooded (rough start,little bit of smoke,rich fuel smell) then it will run fine down the road but continues to want to stall at idle speed and continues the hard "hot starts" any ideas?

Thanks in advance

 

Nolan;
Sounds like the fast idle is dropping off before the choke has started to PULL OFF. Most pull offs are vac.operated.Check for binding,dirt vac leak or just worn out.
These are my thoughts at the moment. Maybe somebody else has another idea. That's what this forum is about. Sharing thoughts and opinions.
caddy 53 chuck

 

This NEVER happens! (right!)

This could be so many things, we could write a book. But here's a few things to look at:

1. If its a hot air choke, be sure both sides of the stove tubes at the manifold are pushed in completely. If its electric, check for 12V at the wire.

2. If it has an an aluminum EGR or PCV carburetor plate, be sure that it does not have any teensy pinholes in the ported areas. In fact, if it has a carburetor base plate, check to be sure it is the right one...this can make a HUGE difference.

3. Be sure the intake manifold ports on either side of the carb are (one is for choke the other for PCV/EGR) not clogged with heavy carbon deposits from using cheap gas. This will sometimes require removing the intake manifold or carburetor.

4. Be sure you have tension on the choke spring when its cold. The book says you're supposed to set it at 3 (notches) lean, but when the spring ages, the notches do not mean too much. You have to set it in a "touchy-feely" manner.

5. Be sure to check your timing. Sometimes older Cleveland's need to be advanced a bit if they have not had close rebuild/restore attention (read: old engine, high miliage).

6. Check for vacuum leaks, particularly at the carbureator/intake manifold area. Be sure if vacuum lines are disconnected, they are not essential to performance or the choke. Lots of folks go wholesale disconnecting, and that will cause problems because you do need some of the vacuums.

7. If its a Cleveland, and its a '73 or '74, it should have an EGR. If it is any other year, there should not be an EGR. In other words, be sure the engine has the right intake manifold...believe me this kind of thing happens if you "inherited" the engine.

See if any of these things helps. If not, let us know the year of the engine. Remember that the "Cleveland" is 1970-74. The "M" or Midland is a different animal with its own boatload of unique problems.