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so, replaced the modulator valve - switched over to the single port version, since my 'replacement' motor doesn't have an EGR and didn't need the two vacuum lines. I thought the weird thing it was doing between 2-3 was due to the fault of the modulator, but it is still acting up. Once the transmission warms up, I drive it, it shift normal from 1-2, but going from 2-3, if you're on any throttle at all, the engine revs when trying to go from 2 to 3, then finally gets to 3. There's no clunk or anything. The other way to prevent the 2-3 shift issue is to really punch it (nearly WOT).
So under normal driving conditions, that 2-3 shift just isn't right. Should I try any adjustment on the modulator, or is it time to visit the tranny shop?
Update- I knew something was wrong! There is no kickdown rod on my transmission!! The PO must have taken it off when he changed out to the edelbrock carb. He never thought to put it back on!! Will the rod on my 77 F150 work? Would there be damage to the transmission driving without the rod?
so, replaced the modulator valve - switched over to the single port version, since my 'replacement' motor doesn't have an EGR and didn't need the two vacuum lines. I thought the weird thing it was doing between 2-3 was due to the fault of the modulator, but it is still acting up. Once the transmission warms up, I drive it, it shift normal from 1-2, but going from 2-3, if you're on any throttle at all, the engine revs when trying to go from 2 to 3, then finally gets to 3. There's no clunk or anything. The other way to prevent the 2-3 shift issue is to really punch it (nearly WOT).
So under normal driving conditions, that 2-3 shift just isn't right. Should I try any adjustment on the modulator, or is it time to visit the tranny shop?
Update- I knew something was wrong! There is no kickdown rod on my transmission!! The PO must have taken it off when he changed out to the edelbrock carb. He never thought to put it back on!! Will the rod on my 77 F150 work? Would there be damage to the transmission driving without the rod?
A C-6 is fairly sturdy ,hard to break , although I have broken a couple . There should be parts from edelbrock to make it work . I went through the same issues when I put a Holly on my truck that I had on a manual trans car . The part was $ 15 or 20
Update- I knew something was wrong! There is no kickdown rod on my transmission!! The PO must have taken it off when he changed out to the edelbrock carb. He never thought to put it back on!! Will the rod on my 77 F150 work? Would there be damage to the transmission driving without the rod?
Unless the kickdown linkage on the transmission is somehow stuck, the missing rod isn't what's causing your problem. The lack of a rod will only keep the transmission from kicking down when you mash it in third.
I would say more than likely the big difference would be length, especially between the 2 & 4 bbl.
Are we talking about the tubular rod that is connected to the trams and makes a 90 degree turn towards the carb . I'm am using the stock rod on my 4 bbl Holly on a Preformer RPM High rise manifold .
Are we talking about the tubular rod that is connected to the trams and makes a 90 degree turn towards the carb . I'm am using the stock rod on my 4 bbl Holly on a Preformer RPM High rise manifold .
Thanks. Yeah, these aftermarket carbs are usually designed to work with a variety of engine/transmission combos. So I think, as long as the motor/tranny combo came on your truck, it should work. for me, I do have the original C6, but my 390 is off of a Fairlane GT. Same block, but heads and possibly intake a little different. I would say should look at either the 2BBL or 4BBL option for kickdown rod, for the 390.
If you don't have the rod or acccess to one I would forget about looking and go with the Lokar cable system. You will still need the kickdown adapter if you have an Edelbrock carb.
If you don't have the rod or acccess to one I would forget about looking and go with the Lokar cable system. You will still need the kickdown adapter if you have an Edelbrock carb.
Thanks, and that's just about what I'm inclined to do. I looked at the clearance for the factory kickdown rod, and somehow, my 390 is a lot taller than the truck 390. I think both intake and heads are larger. Looking at where that would go, no way would a kickdown rod fit!
I saw the Lokar cable kickdown and it looks nice. Also saw the kickdown adapters from Edelbrock. The Lokar is pricey for what it is, but the only option. did you go with the C6 universal one? Part # KD20C6U.
Everyone's right about the kickdown rod - you don't have to have one, just slap it into the lower gear if you want power. So my 2-3 has some slop in it - might be time for the tranny shop, unless I feel like manually shifting gears all the time, which isn't bad for loosening the tires from the pavement!
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