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Battery Cable - Starter Slow Crank

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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 06:33 PM
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Battery Cable - Starter Slow Crank

Sometimes my starter has a hard time turning my engine over. Just put on a new starter because the old one went out after 25 years(had the same slow crank with that starter sometimes). I know it happens because my starter gets hot from the headers, but I was wondering if I could combat that with thicker gauge cable. It's currently 4 gauge cable. Do you guys think it would help to run a heavier cable?

I'm already planning to put some heat shielding on the starter, but not sure that'll be enough.

Any opinions welcome!
Thanks in advance!
 
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 09:55 PM
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How is your battery, is it a good top line battery? Headers, that are not ceramic or wrapped, eat up starters. That would be my first project is wrap the header pipes that are near the starter. If the battery is a good top quality one & cables are clean then I would make sure the ground is a good rust free connection. Is the Starter NEW or REBUILT?
Personally I don't think heavier gauge cables will do that much. I think your problem is elsewhere. What is your engine compression ratio? I see you are using a 70s 460, with some mods?
Craig
 
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by kermmydog
How is your battery, is it a good top line battery?
My battery is just over a year old. I believe it's rated at 950 CCA. So it's a pretty high capacity battery. No signs of it being in bad shape.

Originally Posted by kermmydog
Headers, that are not ceramic or wrapped, eat up starters. That would be my first project is wrap the header pipes that are near the starter. If the battery is a good top quality one & cables are clean then I would make sure the ground is a good rust free connection.
Personally I don't think heavier gauge cables will do that much. I think your problem is elsewhere.
I guess wrapping the header that's near the starter would help. All of the connections are good. I replaced the starter 2 weeks ago. Also replaced the solenoid (inside fender) at the same time as preventative maintenance. I replaced the positive battery terminal last summer because the old one was betting beat up from being connected/disconnected when working on electrical stuff. It's a brass terminal instead of lead since brass doesn't get torn up as easily.

Originally Posted by kermmydog
Is the Starter NEW or REBUILT?
It's a rebuilt starter. Has a bit more torque than the old tired starter.

Originally Posted by kermmydog
What is your engine compression ratio? I see you are using a 70s 460, with some mods?
Yeah, my engine is a 73' 460. Not sure on my compression ratio. Not modded that much. High torque cam, Edelbrock 1406 carb, Weiand intake, headers. Stock D3VE heads.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 11:32 PM
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I personally have had issues over the years with rebuilt starters, alt, stuff like that. you might check what the starter is drawing. The Ground cable is nice and clean on the engine block, no paint or rust. Do you have an engine to body ground? But I would question starter draw. What happens if you hook up another battery to yours like a jumper?
The other thing I have run into is short battery life. Lead batteries these days are not holding up as they once did.
Craig
 
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by kermmydog
I personally have had issues over the years with rebuilt starters, alt, stuff like that. you might check what the starter is drawing. The Ground cable is nice and clean on the engine block, no paint or rust. Do you have an engine to body ground? But I would question starter draw. What happens if you hook up another battery to yours like a jumper?
The other thing I have run into is short battery life. Lead batteries these days are not holding up as they once did.
Craig
I used a Midtronics tester on my electrical system and it showed that the charging system was good (even with all accessories on, blower, high beams, etc...), so I would think that the battery hasn't had any damage. It also showed that my starter drew something like 235 amps if I remember correctly. My battery reads about 12.7 volts after sitting overnight below freezing.

Speaking to batteries these days... They're not wonderful... When this battery goes, I'm thinking of getting a marine dual purpose battery so that it has good CCA and a discharge here or there won't damage it badly.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 06:20 PM
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I might be all wet or out of date but 235 amps is a lot. From my days as a mechanic something like 150-175 amps sticks in my mind. 12.7 is OK but not great. My Dodge V-10 sits for weeks & the last I checked it it was 12.9 after sitting for two weeks.
But that starter is your problem in my mind. I really think that is too many amps. You can ask around but since your having a slow starting situation. Is this a new engine that isn't broke in?
Craig
Craig
 
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by kermmydog
I might be all wet or out of date but 235 amps is a lot. From my days as a mechanic something like 150-175 amps sticks in my mind. 12.7 is OK but not great. My Dodge V-10 sits for weeks & the last I checked it it was 12.9 after sitting for two weeks.
But that starter is your problem in my mind. I really think that is too many amps. You can ask around but since your having a slow starting situation. Is this a new engine that isn't broke in?
Craig
Craig
The engine's plenty broken in. The starter test was the day before my old starter gave up (still worked fine, but the gear was too worn down to grab the flex plate). Haven't done it yet since the new starter. That's probably a good thing to check now.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 09:00 PM
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I would check the amps. Another thought is the starter engaging OK. The ring gear isn't chewed up to where the starter gear gets kind of jammed? Something else you might try is how does the starter work if the plugs are removed?
I'm just trying to give you ideas. Without being there it is hard for me to know.
The only other thing I can think of is have you bench tested the starter. Could there be a bad bushing in the starter under load is causing a drag?
Craig
 
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 09:02 PM
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No, I really think the starter is okay. The gear is fine, and the flex plate is fine.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 09:05 PM
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It just cranks slow sometimes when the starter is hot from the headers. Like if I stop at the gas station and go to start it only 5 minutes after I shut it off. I know I need to put heat shielding around the starter, but I am also wondering if I should run thicker gauge wire. May try it.
 
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Old Mar 8, 2013 | 11:58 PM
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Like these guys have said, it's the heat that's affecting the starter. I firmly believe that your problem will be fixed if you wrap your headers. You just said it's fine unless you run the truck and shut it down and try to start it shortly after. Sounds to me like if it's hot problems are arising. And the hottest place outside the motor is going to be the headers which run right next to the starter.
The heavier wire, while it won't hurt anything, I'd bet it won't help this issue.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 12:21 AM
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Battery Cables

I use 2 G. welding cable on my 1985 F250 and it only has a 302 in it. I bought the welding cable and connectors at the local welding supply. I was having a problem such as you are experiencing and the switch to to larger cables fixed my problem. Remember you need to change both the positive and negative cables. Changing just the positive does not help by itself. Current has to flow back through the negative cable and if it is 4 G you might as well not change it out at all...
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 12:40 AM
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Some kind of insulating heat shield on the starter could be beneficial as well. Or even swapping out the direct drive starter you have to one of the later style compact mini starters. I don't have headers, but I do notice mine starts faster after I did this swap.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by tempest411
Some kind of insulating heat shield on the starter could be beneficial as well. Or even swapping out the direct drive starter you have to one of the later style compact mini starters. I don't have headers, but I do notice mine starts faster after I did this swap.
Yep, I want to put some sort of heat shield/deflector on the starter. I looked at the mini high torque starters when I needed to replace mine a couple weeks ago, but I got my reman starter for $37.50 w/tax with using a coupon at Advance Auto and I traded in my core. The mini starters I saw were $180-$220+, and I was also a little bit skeptical of them.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2013 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by GNR22
Like these guys have said, it's the heat that's affecting the starter. I firmly believe that your problem will be fixed if you wrap your headers. You just said it's fine unless you run the truck and shut it down and try to start it shortly after. Sounds to me like if it's hot problems are arising. And the hottest place outside the motor is going to be the headers which run right next to the starter.
The heavier wire, while it won't hurt anything, I'd bet it won't help this issue.
Yeah, I really need to get heat shielding around the starter. I'll try to get it done soon. Also might run the higher gauge wire, it might help it turn faster on mornings below 20° too.
 
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