When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 90 EFI 302 and the owner before me melted out the fusible link. Well he replaced it with a 30 amp fuse. Now I'm melting out the fuse even though I bought a new fusible link from AutoZone. Is the 30amp not enough or can it just not disappate enough heat for the current through the line. What gauge wire should be the link and should I get rid of the fuse or put a bigger one in. Thanks for any post.
If you have replaced the bad fusible link with a new one, then it should be OK to remove the fuse and its holder. The fusible link should protect the circuit now.
The power (amps) will take the path of least resistance through the circuit and in the case you describe that is through the fuse. A fuse will do its intended job (melt to open the circuit) if the rated current is exceeded. The fuseable link is like a fuse with a resistor in it. Often called Slo-blow the fuseable link will take short periods of current at more than the rated current without needing to be replaced. With the link in place it is safe to remove the fuse as mentioned above. If the link fails again you have a problem in the circuit that should be fixed instead of upping the amperage rating of the fuseable link. In practice it is never a good idea to put a circuit protection device into a circuit at a greater rating than that of the circiut. The Ford alternator problem of the past is a good example where the wiring/connectors were under-rated for the charging circuit and the wires melted, sometimes resulting in fires, while the fuse never blew.