Brake advice
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 266
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From: Idaho
Brake advice
Well my front brakes are dragging a bit...I think its the master cylinder and or brake booster...I plan on changing them both.
The pedal has been mushy then hard....I took off the front passenger wheel and compressed the caliper piston so I know its not a caliper locked up. I found the rubber deteriorating on the passeger brake line so I ordered both left and right lines. I think I will just replace the master cylinder and booster while Im at it see if that solves the problem.
I hope I dont have to replace the calipers right now. Its on the list though. Has anyone had similar problem? I dont know a whole lot about brake system above the calipers eventhough theres not many parts. I usually just change brake pads etc...
The pedal has been mushy then hard....I took off the front passenger wheel and compressed the caliper piston so I know its not a caliper locked up. I found the rubber deteriorating on the passeger brake line so I ordered both left and right lines. I think I will just replace the master cylinder and booster while Im at it see if that solves the problem.
I hope I dont have to replace the calipers right now. Its on the list though. Has anyone had similar problem? I dont know a whole lot about brake system above the calipers eventhough theres not many parts. I usually just change brake pads etc...
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,026
Likes: 0
From: Renton, WA
Well my front brakes are dragging a bit...I think its the master cylinder and or brake booster...I plan on changing them both.
The pedal has been mushy then hard....I took off the front passenger wheel and compressed the caliper piston so I know its not a caliper locked up. I found the rubber deteriorating on the passeger brake line so I ordered both left and right lines. I think I will just replace the master cylinder and booster while Im at it see if that solves the problem.
I hope I dont have to replace the calipers right now. Its on the list though. Has anyone had similar problem? I dont know a whole lot about brake system above the calipers eventhough theres not many parts. I usually just change brake pads etc...
The pedal has been mushy then hard....I took off the front passenger wheel and compressed the caliper piston so I know its not a caliper locked up. I found the rubber deteriorating on the passeger brake line so I ordered both left and right lines. I think I will just replace the master cylinder and booster while Im at it see if that solves the problem.
I hope I dont have to replace the calipers right now. Its on the list though. Has anyone had similar problem? I dont know a whole lot about brake system above the calipers eventhough theres not many parts. I usually just change brake pads etc...
Just in case it hasn't been emphesised before. Bleed Bleed Bleed and Bleed some more the master cylinder BEFORE putting it in the truck. It's VERY hard to bleed after installing. Look in the box with your new master to see if it has bleeding hoses and fittings, most don't these days. If not pick up a kit.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 266
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From: Idaho
Sounds like a worn master cylinder, your on the right track.
Just in case it hasn't been emphesised before. Bleed Bleed Bleed and Bleed some more the master cylinder BEFORE putting it in the truck. It's VERY hard to bleed after installing. Look in the box with your new master to see if it has bleeding hoses and fittings, most don't these days. If not pick up a kit.
Just in case it hasn't been emphesised before. Bleed Bleed Bleed and Bleed some more the master cylinder BEFORE putting it in the truck. It's VERY hard to bleed after installing. Look in the box with your new master to see if it has bleeding hoses and fittings, most don't these days. If not pick up a kit.
so I read an article on it...doesnt seem too bad to bleed it..thanks!
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 2,553
Likes: 10
I've had old flex lines cause that problem. The outside may look OK but the inside is collapsed and holds pressure causing brake drag. It may still need a master/booster but worth doing the flex lines first.
If the flex lines and steel lines are original like they were on my dent, you might expect to replace at least some steel line also. After fighting the rusty fittings on the flex lines in tight quarters, I got smart and simply cut the steel line with a bolt cutter. Lots easier to disassemble the flex line connection on a bench in a vise. A 20' coil of 3/16" brake line and assortment of ends and I was back in business.
If the flex lines and steel lines are original like they were on my dent, you might expect to replace at least some steel line also. After fighting the rusty fittings on the flex lines in tight quarters, I got smart and simply cut the steel line with a bolt cutter. Lots easier to disassemble the flex line connection on a bench in a vise. A 20' coil of 3/16" brake line and assortment of ends and I was back in business.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Idaho
I've had old flex lines cause that problem. The outside may look OK but the inside is collapsed and holds pressure causing brake drag. It may still need a master/booster but worth doing the flex lines first.
If the flex lines and steel lines are original like they were on my dent, you might expect to replace at least some steel line also. After fighting the rusty fittings on the flex lines in tight quarters, I got smart and simply cut the steel line with a bolt cutter. Lots easier to disassemble the flex line connection on a bench in a vise. A 20' coil of 3/16" brake line and assortment of ends and I was back in business.
If the flex lines and steel lines are original like they were on my dent, you might expect to replace at least some steel line also. After fighting the rusty fittings on the flex lines in tight quarters, I got smart and simply cut the steel line with a bolt cutter. Lots easier to disassemble the flex line connection on a bench in a vise. A 20' coil of 3/16" brake line and assortment of ends and I was back in business.
Great..
I hope to not have too much problems like that...I didnt look too hard at the lines but they didnt look "bad" as in rusty they looked old but Ive seen some bad ones...I ordered both front flex lines...and brake master cylinder cuz when I got the truck the front resevoir was empty and I filled it and it leaked some out the top and its been flip flopping...being mushy and hard...so now the wait...
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 7,877
Likes: 49
From: Tennessee
I just replaced the rubber lines on my 78 . All orig . I cut the rubber lines , heated steel fittings with propane torch , lines came right off . No problems with steel lines . Did not have to replace any steel lines . Oh , these are not to hard to bleed either . Short bench bleed , then gravity bleed . A few short pressure bleeds if you need it . Good to go ! Good luck !
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Idaho
I just replaced the rubber lines on my 78 . All orig . I cut the rubber lines , heated steel fittings with propane torch , lines came right off . No problems with steel lines . Did not have to replace any steel lines . Oh , these are not to hard to bleed either . Short bench bleed , then gravity bleed . A few short pressure bleeds if you need it . Good to go ! Good luck !
shipped the same day go figure...and dunno when the brake master cylinder is supposed to get here...Im gonna wait on all three parts before I open the lines...
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Idaho
well its going sorta good...lol I got the master cylinder in and the flex lines in...but when I took off the master cylinder the rear brake line broke off at the master cylinder
now I guess I have to make one or try and find one in a junkyard...I think I'll just make it...then bleed the brakes
now I guess I have to make one or try and find one in a junkyard...I think I'll just make it...then bleed the brakes
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