Rear Leaf Spring Lowering Question
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2012
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Rear Leaf Spring Lowering Question
I've searched several threads here and haven't been able to find the answer to this particular question:
I want to lower my truck about 3" all around. I want to lower it just enough to get a good stance, but not so low that I'll have to C-channel my frame to prevent bumping.
Looks like removing a leaf or two from the rear is the best way to get a the truck mildly lower without requiring any cutting of the frame, and I shouldn't sacrifice ride too much.
Has anyone done this? Can you give me any feedback on what it did for your ride? How much did you lower your truck?
I'm planning on using the DJM Dream Beams to lower the front about 3", so hopefully removing a leaf or two from the rear is a realistic option.
Any help here is greatly appreciated!
I want to lower my truck about 3" all around. I want to lower it just enough to get a good stance, but not so low that I'll have to C-channel my frame to prevent bumping.
Looks like removing a leaf or two from the rear is the best way to get a the truck mildly lower without requiring any cutting of the frame, and I shouldn't sacrifice ride too much.
Has anyone done this? Can you give me any feedback on what it did for your ride? How much did you lower your truck?
I'm planning on using the DJM Dream Beams to lower the front about 3", so hopefully removing a leaf or two from the rear is a realistic option.
Any help here is greatly appreciated!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Easy. Flipping the front hanger of the rear leaf springs will about get you where you want to be... without removing leaf springs.
Cost? Your time and maybe $20 in Grade 8 nuts, bolts, and washers.
Cost? Your time and maybe $20 in Grade 8 nuts, bolts, and washers.
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Junior User
Joined: Oct 2012
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Awesome! Thanks HIO Silver!
I spoke with DJM's technical gurus who told me that there are 2 spaces you can use with their replacement rear hanger bracket. One space gives you about 2.5" to 3" of drop and the other one gives you the 4.5" to 5" that they advertise.
If flipping the front hanger will do the same thing for much cheaper, I think I'll go that route with the proper bolts/nuts/washers.
Now I just need to figure out what size Bilstein shocks to buy? I don't suppose stock size shocks will work with the 3" drop, will they?
I spoke with DJM's technical gurus who told me that there are 2 spaces you can use with their replacement rear hanger bracket. One space gives you about 2.5" to 3" of drop and the other one gives you the 4.5" to 5" that they advertise.
If flipping the front hanger will do the same thing for much cheaper, I think I'll go that route with the proper bolts/nuts/washers.
Now I just need to figure out what size Bilstein shocks to buy? I don't suppose stock size shocks will work with the 3" drop, will they?
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 3,026
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From: Renton, WA
If you are never going to put a load in it and want a car like ride then playing with the leafs is a better way to go. If you are going to put a load in it then flipping the hanger is a better way to go.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Awesome! Thanks HIO Silver!
I spoke with DJM's technical gurus who told me that there are 2 spaces you can use with their replacement rear hanger bracket. One space gives you about 2.5" to 3" of drop and the other one gives you the 4.5" to 5" that they advertise. If flipping the front hanger will do the same thing for much cheaper, I think I'll go that route with the proper bolts/nuts/washers.
Now I just need to figure out what size Bilstein shocks to buy? I don't suppose stock size shocks will work with the 3" drop, will they?
I spoke with DJM's technical gurus who told me that there are 2 spaces you can use with their replacement rear hanger bracket. One space gives you about 2.5" to 3" of drop and the other one gives you the 4.5" to 5" that they advertise. If flipping the front hanger will do the same thing for much cheaper, I think I'll go that route with the proper bolts/nuts/washers.
Now I just need to figure out what size Bilstein shocks to buy? I don't suppose stock size shocks will work with the 3" drop, will they?
Gotta figure out full compression and full droop then contact Shockwarehouse.com techs for input. If ya find out what Bilsteins work out PM me or post up the part numbers cuz I'm doing the same !!!
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 633
Likes: 1
From: Grande Prairie, Alberta
I flipped my front hanger on my '79 F100 short box regular cab but it wasn't as simple as I thought it would be. The top left hole (looking at the frame once the hanger is flipped) runs right into a cross member, and not in a good way. I had to notch the cross member and weld a nut in place for it to work. I will post a couple picks tonight.
I had a look under my '78 F150 long box Super Cab and it has a different setup that looks like it would work better.
I would also like to know what works for shocks.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
What is the "Flexomatic System"?
I flipped my front hanger on my '79 F100 short box regular cab but it wasn't as simple as I thought it would be. The top left hole (looking at the frame once the hanger is flipped) runs right into a cross member, and not in a good way. I had to notch the cross member and weld a nut in place for it to work. I will post a couple picks tonight.
I had a look under my '78 F150 long box Super Cab and it has a different setup that looks like it would work better.
I would also like to know what works for shocks.
I flipped my front hanger on my '79 F100 short box regular cab but it wasn't as simple as I thought it would be. The top left hole (looking at the frame once the hanger is flipped) runs right into a cross member, and not in a good way. I had to notch the cross member and weld a nut in place for it to work. I will post a couple picks tonight.
I had a look under my '78 F150 long box Super Cab and it has a different setup that looks like it would work better.
I would also like to know what works for shocks.
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Junior User
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All things being equal, I may be better off opting for the DJM front and back kit and install it all new. It may cost a little more, but it sounds like a better way to go if flipping the front bracket is tougher on the dents than the bumps..
Also, HIO Silver, I was thinking about the Bilstein shock thing. I'm going to call DJM back tomorrow and get the specs on their shocks that they sell with the dream beam kit. If I can get that information, I should be able to figure out which Bilstein's will work.
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
So do you mean that flipping the front bracket is only a viable option on the Bumpside? From reading kevin316's post, it doesn't sound fun..
All things being equal, I may be better off opting for the DJM front and back kit and install it all new. It may cost a little more, but it sounds like a better way to go if flipping the front bracket is tougher on the dents than the bumps..
Also, HIO Silver, I was thinking about the Bilstein shock thing. I'm going to call DJM back tomorrow and get the specs on their shocks that they sell with the dream beam kit. If I can get that information, I should be able to figure out which Bilstein's will work.
All things being equal, I may be better off opting for the DJM front and back kit and install it all new. It may cost a little more, but it sounds like a better way to go if flipping the front bracket is tougher on the dents than the bumps..
Also, HIO Silver, I was thinking about the Bilstein shock thing. I'm going to call DJM back tomorrow and get the specs on their shocks that they sell with the dream beam kit. If I can get that information, I should be able to figure out which Bilstein's will work.
OK.. post up if ya find out!
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 633
Likes: 1
From: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Cook
What is you truck exactly? I think the problem with mine comes from being a short box. Lots of others on here have did the flip and no one has ever said anything about having problems.
What is you truck exactly? I think the problem with mine comes from being a short box. Lots of others on here have did the flip and no one has ever said anything about having problems.
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Junior User
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My truck is a '77 Shortbed 2wd F100.
Looks like those who do the axle flip have also C-channeled their frames to get the bumpstop clearance back. You lose about 3-4" of bumpstop clearance due to the diameter of the axle being between the springs and the frame rather than being under it.
I don't want to cut my frame.
So it looks like moving the location of the frame bracket is the way to go. Whether this is best done by flipping the stock bracket or coughing up the money to buy DJM's kit is what I'll have to figure out.
Looks like those who do the axle flip have also C-channeled their frames to get the bumpstop clearance back. You lose about 3-4" of bumpstop clearance due to the diameter of the axle being between the springs and the frame rather than being under it.
I don't want to cut my frame.
So it looks like moving the location of the frame bracket is the way to go. Whether this is best done by flipping the stock bracket or coughing up the money to buy DJM's kit is what I'll have to figure out.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
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I'm in the process of doing the hanger flip. I ran into the problem of the cross member being in the way too (originally long bed, now shortened frame short bed by PO). I just made a new hole in the hanger to miss the cross member. The hardest part for me was getting the rivets out which you'll have to do for the flip or the DJM kit. Get the hangers off and flip them around and see if it will work for you, if not you can always get the kit later. Also with either way you go you'll need to use pinion angle shims. I don't have the axle back on yet to measure but I've read it needs 6 degrees with the "full flip".
Pinion Angle Shims - SummitRacing.com
Pinion Angle Shims - SummitRacing.com
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
Hmm... I was thinking about this a few days ago.
Eaton Detroit Springs offers new leafs which can lower the rear as much as three inches. Partner those springs with a hanger flip and I think lowering the rear by a total of 5-inches appears, in theory, to be a doable thing wtihout having to notch the frame.
Whaddya think? Anybody wanna give Eaton Detroit a call to get their take???
Eaton Detroit Springs offers new leafs which can lower the rear as much as three inches. Partner those springs with a hanger flip and I think lowering the rear by a total of 5-inches appears, in theory, to be a doable thing wtihout having to notch the frame.
Whaddya think? Anybody wanna give Eaton Detroit a call to get their take???
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2013
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I'm trying to do my suspension on my part-runner/work truck on the cheap and this seems like a great option to me. I'm a little concerned about whether or not it is safe however. It seems like the the spring hanger is gusseted to take the load of the suspension, so wouldn't flipping it render the gusseting useless? I figured the best people to ask are the people that have done it and used the trucks! If you guys aren't having problems with your hanger flips, then I'm going for it, lol.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2011
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I don't have my truck here so I can't look at it but I don't think there is any specific gusseting. That is, its one piece of metal, there isn't any additional pieces added for strength. I think the shape of it will work in tension and compression. The problem I found was that with the hanger flipped the leaf spring hits the hanger (leaf spring was attached at shackle and no axle), I had to compress the spring just to get it to line up with the hanger bolt holes. Also it moves the axle forward. It was too much for the PO's aftermarket drive shaft so I had to flip the hangers back the right way because I needed the truck back on the road. Without the bed on it was probably at least a 4" drop though.