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Well I did get some info from the mechanic that is looking over the truck.
This is his text to me when I texted him and asked if he had a chance to look it over yet.
from text:
egr cooler is leaking big time, also I cant get it to build enough oil pressure to start. Next steep is to change oil and repair broken tube in oil filter housing, after that I will be tearing into top engine for further testing.
end text.
I am not a mechanic so I really dont understand everything he is talking about.
This above could be a Simple Sensor to Compleate Engine Overhaul/ShortBlock
Try to Pin the mechanic down on this
Just the Oil Press Might be the Deal Breaker If it has Good Low Pressure Oil then it could be 200.00 (Simple sensor) to I am guessing 1500.00 for HPOP (Rebuilt High Press Pump) GIVE or Take on price
No LPO could be Cheap Still But Odds Favor Overhaul you would want to know exactly Whats Up if there is No LPO
EGR & Oil Coolers are pretty Straight forward
Sounds Like the EGR Cooler HOSE is BAD a 1.00 Part and I would bet the Oil and EGR Cooleers ARE GOOD Depending where the smoke is coming from
EGR and Oil Cooler dont Normaly leak externaly
Just that Little EGR Cooler Hose is Known to Leak Externaly
Could be your truck dont need all that stuff HARD to say this side the computer
If the White Smoke Came Out the TAILPIPE then EGR Oil Coolers are probably a Correct Diagnostic
But if the Smoke is Coming from engine Bay then that EGR Cooler hose could Just be leaking onto the Exhaust Pipe and a Simple EGR Cooler HOSE maybe all thats Needed
It was blowing large amounts of white smoke out of the tailpipe, that is for sure.
Then Good Chance EGR and Oil Coolers are Needed EGR Valve needs Pulled to Verify
Head Gasket could be Bad depending how much coolant went into the cylinders
Liqued dont compress so cylinder Pressures Could have Been Way HIGH cylinder compression test would Verify. The Coolant would need to be drained and Glow Plugs Pulled to Vent the Cylinders Before the compression test is Exicuted so you dont get a False Bad compress Test
Well I heard back from the mechanic yesterday. He changed out the oil cooler and egr cooler. The truck is now alive. He said it keeps having trans fluid faults. I asked him if that meant that the tranny was going out, he said he didnt think so that he thought the problem was electrical.He said it runs good with good power. So far I am only into this fix for $1700.
I wish I was more mechanically inclined with this motor. I for one do not even know what a biased tft is, nor the trans wet loom. I am guessing these are the possible electrical problem he thinks it has.
Well I heard back from the mechanic yesterday. He changed out the oil cooler and egr cooler. The truck is now alive. He said it keeps having trans fluid faults. I asked him if that meant that the tranny was going out, he said he didnt think so that he thought the problem was electrical.He said it runs good with good power. So far I am only into this fix for $1700.
And just about 5 weeks ago you wanted to let the truck go for $1,500 - $2,000. Not too shabby.
Just a small update, I decided to keep the truck and use as my daily, the wife has taken over my 2010 model, I am ok with that since I really dont want to spend the money for a Expedition or Tahoe. That is what she has wanted for a long time. Here is updated pic of the truck, I have replaced the tailgate, running boards and added a camper. I went the camper route because I found it cheaper than a new roll and lock. Just got new tires today. Surprises me how worn out a truck can get when you have employees driving them, It has taken a week just to get it cleaned up.
I'll be honest, I like the looks of that truck! Congrats on getting it running right, and dare I say I posted advising fixing it and keeping it! Yay me! What was the fix on the trans faults?
He told me what it was but I forgot. All I remember is that he said it was a sensor of some kind, it did not cost me much I think it was under a hundred.
Well the saga continues. Thursday I stopped for some lunch, got back to the truck about an hour later. I noticed it was taking a little longer to start. It finally caught and I drove it to my mechanic. Once there we noticed that it was showing low oil pressure. The gauge would drop at idle below the L and the check gauge light would come on but as soon as you hit the throttle the pressure gauge would swing into action and the light would go off. Jake (the mechanic) said that it was probably an issue involving the low oil pressure sensor. It was late in the day and he said if I where to pick one up he could install it the following day. So I picked it up the following day and made my way to his shop. Before he installed the new sensor he installed a fitting into the the sensor location that he hooked an actual mechanical oil pressure gauge to. He then started the motor and to our surprise it was registering low oil pressure on the gauge. I was standing there during this process. In fact at idle it was not even pushing oil through the gauge. As soon as you hit the throttle though I could see the oil going through the tube. At that time he said we may have an issue with the low pressure oil pump. He then took off the fan and a few other things to get to the crank pulley. Once everything was off we saw no damage to the oil pump or the cover. I went ahead and had him install a new pump since everything was a part I figured it was the right thing to do at that point. I got a text from Jake Saturday morning this is what it said "Got pump in before I left. Pressure came up but is still low. Searching for causes other than worn engine. Will try and have answer Monday"
Well that did not sound good. I am hoping that what ever the issue is that he finds it. I have spent a few thousand on the truck getting the steps,camper, and new tires this past couple of weeks not counting what I spent the first two times when it was down.
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